a.craw4d

Yeah would widen the cage and part of the frame, wheel base looks good enough for a 2 seated. Pics of your frame please? Where about are you? I'm currently building a shopping trolley go kart with my boy so something else is more for me

I'm still keen on this if someone could have a look. It seems to be too high in the gearing and might need an intermediate shaft and sprockets to fix it. Would like to know if its starts and runs well and everything seems to work. Also how much of a push start it needs, ie a gentle walking push or a 5 man bobsled sprint. Thanks anyone.

I'm so sorry I have only just found this build. Amazing work so far, I absolutely love this build. It's the kind of project I'd love to do one day. Keep up the good work.

Just like looking at a car I guess? Runs, things seem to work, goes hard for what it is. I'm guessing by the fact it needs a push to get moving it's either A: geared too high and you'd never get past 2nd gear or B: completely gutless and needs work that I don't know how to do and probably couldn't be bothered anyway.

Forgot to say please

Anyone in Invercargill want to go have a nosie at a go kart? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1227116811 I keep coming back to it on trademe so googled gsx400 as I know sfa about karts and motorbikes, Seems to be a heap of power for a kart so I think I like it lol. If someone's bored and feels like doing something then by all means go have a poke around and maybe even take it for a skid. I'm interested to know their bottom dollar as it needs some work with the gearing and wheels rubbing. I'd also like to convert it to a two seater so don't want to pay any more than I have to if I'm going to cut it up and rework a heap of it. Thanks, Adrian.

They can be certed but they need to be done by an approved engineer/ wheel modifier. I'm very slowly in the process of getting approval to do this work but won't be for a while yet. Elite in Christchurch do them. OK priced too.

Know a guy here in dunedin that did a couple rb powered e30's. Had to machine the front off the crank pulley to clear the radiator but otherwise a straight forward swap. Also did a simple tube frame in the rear to take a nissan lsd. My 2 cents worth. Cool car.

I'm here and could be keen. Don't have an old school car though

RWD 626's are solid diff aren't they? I remember pulling some air shocks out of one to replace the fucked shocks in the rear of my datsun 180b. My 180b sat at normal height with no air in them but went quite high when pumped up. So datsun 180b one's must be shorter, same mount type. Btw my 180b was a 75, early shape with independent rear end.

^^Beat me to it, was gona say justy. Loving the buggy.

Here they are. Just thought I'd share. http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/heating-cooling/heating-systems/auction-975360809.htm

The plans I have have got wetback options. They have a 20mm copper tube entering into the bottom of the burn tube (longer burn tube more like the first one pictured on here) just above the old disc brake, it runs up the center and exits out the top beside the flue. Apparently one tube runs a modern style radiator 1.8m long up to 5m away from the burner. Could fit a few wetback tubes in there and run your hot water cylinder plus a few radiators in the house while the main unit heats the workshop, Everyone wins

Ok so I've bought some plans from a nz company to build one. And before I get burned on here for being lazy and not working it out myself I have very little spare time and wanted it to work first time. How much do I have to change a design before I can call it my own? Reason I'm asking is before I've even started I've got people asking me to build them one. Told them to get in line and wait cos my shit comes first. Should have the plans tomorrow so might have to do a couple late nights. From what I've read in the last few days since this thread started, Lots of people tend to have these burners running a wetback and use that to heat radiators in houses, workshops. Some do underfloor heating and even heat swimming pools. You're right, these are contagious but hopefully a lot of fun too

Very interested in building one (or more) of these, And I had never seen one until reading this. What sort of issues did you have with tuning it? Is it just a mater of getting the oil flow right? Also from what I've read now do you have any problems with the oil getting thinner and flowing faster as the unit warms up? How do you initailly light it? Sorry for all the Q's but you got me hooked. Basically just measure everything you've done, make some drawings and put them on here Please By next winter every OSer and their mates will be rocking one and power companies will be forced to drop prices to encourage people back to electric heating.

What do you plan to weld? If you don't intend to weld ali then that cuts machine costs alot. Scratch start machines are good for mild steel and ok for stainless (can make a mess if you don't start or end well). HF start (high frequency) is best, means you don't get contaminated tunstens and the tip stays sharper for longer. Like said above it's very much like gas welding but with lots more control. I've got a 200amp ac/dc single phase machine with all sorts of functions I don't really need but I wanted the 200A for welding ali.

That's ok, I'll still be keen for them when you're done. They're for the rear of a very long term s13 project

Looks good mate. Love the pipes. You keen to sell your old front struts n ship to dunedin?

Now I want one too! Go for the cheap starter motor option, Drag it behind a mates car