4AGEMAD

I had that problem. Luckily i work at toyota so had access to the old brick IT1 which measured the o2 sensor and gave a graph reading of it fuel trims Old sensor was dead, flat lined. Fitted new sensor and on open loop circuit was fluctuating correctly. Also hesistation went away. Also check that your efi temp sensor is working properly

Oh yeah, I still have this thing

It's an antique koken. Toyota's too tight to buy us new shit

Have an m18 fuel Milwaukee rattle gun, it's so amazing. Beats the workshops 3/4" rattle gun on everything. Actually beats every gun in the workshop. Also use it on 10mm bolts lol never snapped one. Has a variable speed trigger so just touching lightly does the trick. Not sure if you've tried to undo 1kz crank bolt nuts (torqued to 210ft-lb or so) but can undo them. Have a m12 power drill too which is amazing, 13mm Chuck on a 12v drill is rare, powers through wooden posts which is amazing for a little drill Milwaukee all dayyeeee!

brake clean is my go to

Haha it actually got recovered by keiran on here, definitely keeping it that colour. Thanks man, cars taken a back seat due to home renovations atm

Wish I knew how to sheepers :'( All I've made is caster plates lol Shot man!

Dam, talk about a thread revival!! So Sqengineering put out with the goods, I have been waiting ever since he started talk of the j160 adaptor plate some 2 years ago. Whilst at it, I ordered the water relocation kit, 70mm stacks/trumpets, throttle linkage kit, C.O.P plate & dizzy cover for all the blaang. No excuses now, have basically everything there to mount everything etc. Sweet times ahead

I did a thing thanks again 'oldnathan' Saw Nathan had a W50 with an m series bell and other bits and pieces for a good price so i figured why not! sourced a new clutch disc, MKIII supra clutch pedal and slave cylinder. Had to customise the slave bolt hole and clutch pedal box bolt holes to suit Also had a mission trying to piece together a driveshaft, ending up getting one shortened All up was so worth it, definitely glad to get rid of that old slush box, will update with more pics soon

yeah odd he has standard calipers too, rotors looked okish, no heavy lip unless its been skimmed..

Dont buy redline, theyre cheap crap. Fenix is designed to a much higher standard. Ive got one in black, really great quality.

Cheers Frosty, will give that a shot now. Is it normal that both spindles can move freely with no resistance whilst the 'tape' is inserted. I assume this could be due to the gears not engaging correctly?

Made a fairly rookie move out of excitement/depression. The previous owners made a complete mess of the radio wiring, blowing multiple fuses, found one radio fuse mounted in the engine bay which is a bit odd. but was tracing power wiring from what they originally used and was all weird etc etc, they also added their own wiring into it which didnt help the cause. Long story short shes all go! Frosty you were right, my manual says there was a blue/yellow wire, but i needed a green/black & green/red wires. so wiring diagram is definitely for the newer models. BUT, the tapes wont play I push the tape in, it clicks, pickup engages, hear a noise then pops out again and repeats about 4 times then ejects the tape. The spindles dont spin which leads me to believe that the drive band/belt from the motor is broken?

You might be onto something there. I do have all the wires that come out of it so my last resort is to obviously solder back all the wires and hope for the best. There are three plugs out of the back, one housing the power/speaker wires, one for more speaker wires I am to believe and the other which runs to the 'remote'radio controls. Which puts my in a shizz is that the diagram I have is not quite right and I can find anything online. Fingers crossed but I wouldve thought just apply power and earth to what I think is the right wires shouldve booted it up?

So I purchased myself a factory Cressida double din Technics matsushita Headunit. Wired up then turned everything on. Unfortunately all I got was a small led on the face light up then turn off straight after, didnt even turn on the screen. Thinking there was something wrong with the vehicle itself I bench tested with a 12v inverter, exactly the same issue. Love it if someone could help me with this as Id rather not send it back.

Oh yes forgot to mention about the rear windscreen, can see rust peeking out so will get the screen removed at some stage and fix that. Have you had to remove yours Antz? Id hate to ruin the chrome trim along the seal. Sorry shoudve got back to you Yowzer. I managed to find a new one in america so all sorted now thanks.

One Bonus I fully forgot was that the ol boeast still has its original glass including the front windscreen!! Proven by the original number plate plastered on it. Friday night My new cambelt etc, crank keys and seals arrived so got stuck in as soon as i got home from work. Thankfully the new crank timing pulley fitted nice and snug on the crank snout so was in mint condition giving what had happened. Everything went together well, had to remove the exhaust side rocker cover to check the camshafts alignment, whilst it was out i took the chance to clean it up and add some sealant around the gasket to keep it from pissing out everywhere till i get new ones. Come 2:00am! it was all pieced together. Now bare in mind the car hadn't been run for over a year, i cranked her over for about 2 seconds, turned the key off, primed the fuel system then she fired straight into life. Had a bit of a miss when revved but cleared up not long after and has been great ever since. Being too excited/cold I didnt manage to snap a vid but hers another one after 2 trips to town as per trip meter. https://youtu.be/W_UO4ecej-c Today I took advantage of Hawkes bays 21 degree weather and attacked the rust...cant get away from the dam s@#t. The worst that i know of at the moment is on the lhs 'A' pillar and after chatting with my boss he said back then it was a common rusting point. After pulling out the goldilocks I engulfed the whole pillar with cavity wax and cleaned up all the rust. Ended up cutting back about 70mm of the guttering as it was toast and welded up the hole followed by por15 sealer. didnt get pics of the new plate but once the sealer had cured will bog over it all and repaint with the original coloured base coat in a can. Trial fitted my A3A, i do like the look but i think the ol geezer wont be happy. Quick snap of the near completed engine, will redo the wrinkle paint on the covers at some stage and Very lightly water blast the engine bay. Todays resolution: I'm bloody stoaked with my old Cressy (or Cress as per rego tag ). During my drive into town I had to test the cruise control, to my absolute delight it worked perfectly! Its pritty crude in the way it operates but hey, a coming up 30 year old car with cruise control, that shizz is pure luxury. Lets not forget the automatic fan speed AND air direction modes. Better stop my Toyota fan-boying... Got the car up on the hoist, everything looks great underneath, sumps a bit bashed and both rackends need replacing along with one shock but other than that and the rust she'll fly through the warrant fingers crossed..

So sorry to see what happened man. did the grill survive?

Haha no worries, interesting to know. Lot of effort for not a very flash wheel though..well done nonetheless.

chat here

Purchased this gem from fello os'er 'oldnathan'. I'm a 4AGE boy at heart but have always had a love for the old boxy Cressidas, also needing a tow car for the kp i figured...why not. Bit of history on the old girl: 1986 - Started off her life at the Toyota plant in Thames, at 60 thou km's in 1993 it was sold on to some old geezer who owned the car for about 11 years. This is the part that saddens me, last year the coot decided to take her to the local wreckers for scrap!! luckily it was saved but i'm assuming when the cambelt was changed around this time the crank bolt wasn't torqued correctly and eventually slackened off enough and did the damage. The car was passed on to Nathan who then must've realized his v12 Cressida was more important, then on to me. The thing that really grabbed me was that it was basically bone stock, I have further found out from the scrap yard that ford springs were put in the rear to lower it a bit but other than that she's unmolested. Specs: Engine - 5M-GE 2.8L (worlds first engine of its kind with hydraulic tappets) Transmission - A43DE 4 speed with lock-up torque converter Rear end - Independant semi trailing, f series? 4.1:1 Sweet bits: Classic Digital dash, Leather interior (seen better days), Cruise control, illuminating drivers door key and ignition barrel, power mirrors & windows, central locking, vehicle speed sensitive power assisted steering, remote radio & a/c controls, trick gold Cressida wheels which am pointed out to have been painted, dam nice job at that. So enough blabbering, got the car trailered home last saturday knowing it had spun the crank timing pulley key then stripped it all down, found the crank seems (fingers crossed) ok but the pulley is quite damaged. Managed to hunt down a brand new pulley from murica and will be here tomorrow. In the mean time I spent the weekend cleaning the old girl up, nothing too major, most of the electrics weren't working but have found the one door was completely missing its regulator! in place was a handy piece of kiwi ingenuity...a block of wood nonetheless kept at it, diagnosed most of it, windows switches needs replacing, radio fuse was blown which stopped the wing mirrors from working...go figure. bits of rust here and there but all fixable, have sent through a mad order through to a guy for a bunch of stuff so hopefully can get all those nek wek. Basically im doing a slight resto, bringing her back to its original grandad/ma self in all of its sheepwool seat cover, cassette tape radio, bobble headed dog glory. Dont get me wrong I love seeing them slammed on a nice set of Japanese 14's, but I'm wanting something a bit more practical with comfort and style in mind. Thoughts here

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8cee0fl6mloj3mh/LN%20Hiace%20headlight%20switch%20wiring%20diagram%20.pdf?dl=0 Thank me later

Oil sand with 1200grit, smash it with brake clean then polish is what I would do.

Im using por15 metal prep followed by a por15 sealer. Top quality product

good news, Techno Toy Tuning have come out with a rose joint/nolethane bush link setup option https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/kp61/bushed-4-links-te72-corolla Down side theyre bloody expensive!