Ghostchips

Is it possible to plumb an exhaust wheel of an old turbocharger into the exhaust and put a little pully or skateboard wheel on the shaft where the compressor wheel would have been and drive the rear wheel from that?

No someone in Auckland has a tig welder so i got some stuff welded.

i get there and you guys all leave? (as well as everyone else) such welcome. lol If terrorists were as scared of me as everyone else is i'd be paid millions per year to walk around the desert.

Seems wet, anyone still going?

Well i have a bicycle frame or 2 (big safety bike with 28 inch wheels style) which are not that cool. Some cut up frames and someone who owes me money and supplies has a frame like this Already fitted with a motorbike rear wheel which is convenient for fitting an engine. He's scary though, but i believe he would sell it. i can buy it from him so you don't have to deal with him.

Which style frame would you like? i have access to a few (sorry if this post is in the wrong thread)

253, three on tree and all original looking (people will think it was an ex police car)

Is that one of those jet engines for model planes? i went to buy 2 of those to strap to each boot but they only have like 8KG of thrust each.

Reworked the latch until it worked. The rusty door knob was for setting it up but it's growing on me.. not sure they'd VIN a car with it though so i'll make another handle.

Still not big enough. (No shed seems big enough)

If you do put a blower on it please don't cut the hood, fibreglass is an option if all else fails. And if you get the right blower how about a slanted nosecone with square plastic covers hiding the headlights? just an idea.

Reduced rotating mass for faster acceleration.

What happens to the chassis the body came from?

Looks like a model A block on an earlier oil pan too.

i don't actually know what i'm doing. Just folding and stretching metal and then trying to shrink it again. i use a hammer, metal solid shape thing, a treestump and very worn vice grips. i know someone who has a real shrinker stretcher tool but i'm not allowed to borrow it. However i can bring a hammer and a piece of tree to burgerfuel or somewhere and try to make a thing if you want. There isn't a whole car yet. And when i get some wheels i'll be able to roll it outside where i'll be able to take a picture of it without needing a fisheye lense or having walls in the way.

Believe it or not this is not the fabrication disaster thread, i really did make the deck lid from a discarded road sign that was run over by a car, and then another car. And this is the inside of it.

Looks less bad now. But it looks like i gave up on the bootlid... One day i may make a new one. the panel gap is terrible. People see this and ask me why i'm not a panel beater. This is why

If its good enough for sheepers then it's good enough for me. i have painted the outside of cheap cars with it but i don't recommend it for exterior panels on a good car.

If you had a twin cylinder master would you need it to be on the front? Rear having no pedal travel would stop the front brakes operating?

How did you make the tapered tube?

Acid etching of some kind may be a last resort, i heard it works on engine blocks but you'd have to get a forensic person onto it, they'd probably be good at it.

And heavy oil down the sparkplug holes after the test, then test again and compare.

The moisture in the cap had causes carbon tracking, if you find no carbon tracking you may be able to re-use the cap, if it's tracked a replacement might be required.

Well as far as engines go i was thinking of getting VIN with the 4 cylinder and install my flathead later but now i am thinking of retaining the 4 cylinder (gow job L4s are the new flathead) and use a special head i have, hence saving the V8 for something else. Struggling to think of what available engine-less car would suit a 21 stud v8, Commodore! ..or not.