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Specification unclear. The arduino is now stuck in my ear.

Merry Christmas: const int sensorPin1 = A1; const int sensorPin2 = A2; const int sensorPin3 = A3; int sensorValue = 0; int sensorThreshold = 900; int sensorMax = 0; void setup() { pinMode(2, OUTPUT); pinMode(3, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); } void flashIfHigh(uint8_t inPin, uint8_t outPin) { if (analogRead(inPin) >= sensorThreshold) { digitalWrite(outPin, !(digitalRead(outPin))); } else { digitalWrite(outPin, LOW); } } void loop() { delay(200); flashIfHigh(sensorPin1, 2); flashIfHigh(sensorPin2, 3); flashIfHigh(sensorPin3, 4); }

/ just takes practice.

Also, programming, you have to get everything right, so easier to start small, get it going, then change one thing at a time.

Problem is the extra semicolons at the end of the if lines (sorry I didn't spot it earlier). Did you get any of the standard examples working? It's a really good place to start.

Looks near enough to me. You could measure the current (tricky, with AC) if you're concerned. Keep an eye/nose out for coil getting too hot, etc

That sounds odd? I'd expect to see about 12V on both ends of the ballast? If the ballast Resistor is toast, the car may spark when cranking (ballast is bypassed), then stop when releasing the cranking (tries to feed coil thru that Resistor).

Also, loop happens really fast, so if signal 1 is > ~4V, and the other ones are low, then output pin 2 is going to 99.99% stay high, not blink. If you tell us what you're making, I could show you some pretty ways of making the code, but go have a look at the examples first

I ran it through another editor, to get thn indenting more helpful, and added the digitalWrite you need const int sensorPin1 = A1; const int sensorPin2 = A2; const int sensorPin3 = A3; int sensorValue = 0; int sensorMin = 1023; int sensorMax = 0; void setup() { pinMode(2, OUTPUT); pinMode(3, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); } void loop() { if (sensorPin1 >= 900); { digitalWrite(2, HIGH); delay(200); digitalWrite(2, LOW); } else if (sensorPin1 <= 900); { digitalWrite(2, LOW); } if (sensorPin2 >= 900); { digitalWrite(3, HIGH); delay(200); digitalWrite(3, LOW); } else if (sensorPin2 <= 900); { digitalWrite(3, LOW); } if (sensorPin3 >= 900); { digitalWrite(5, HIGH); delay(200); digitalWrite(5, LOW); } else if (sensorPin3 <= 900); { digitalWrite(5, LOW); } } there's great tutorial and refernces at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage and a language reference at https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/ Also, have a look at the built in examples: especially File - Examples - 01.Basics - Blink

Check my sig (you might need to use a computer, not a phone to see it?)

I have several. The issue is getting very specific on the allowable models for which code, which chipsets, and if there's any crypto pairing or such bs. I've not looked at recent auto stuff, so gearing up could be a big time soak. Sorry, I'm out for the mo.

Car has been missing slightly the last couple of days. So I'm gonna drive it home to look for my spares...

Cool, so you'll be able to turn a knob, and like, change the wheelbase. Have been playing with these (Like WiFi, but slow, and ~10km range, and can run off a battery for a year...) https://nicegear.nz/product/adafruit-rfm95w-lora-radio-transceiver-breakout-868-or-915-mhz

Check charge V with a true-RMS meter?

Link?

The long cranking would be a problem. Initially I'm guessing a 4S lipo (14.8V nominal), because then you could use a standard alternator to charge (typically 13.8 to 14.5V). It won't fully charge the LiPo, but they don't sulphate and this will extend the working life. You'd need a cells balancer arrangement (available as a module, or in the plastic box per above). It'd probably be worth putting a relay on a thermo-switch on the battery, just as safety, (e.g. if battery starts overheating, disconnect the Alternator and starter relay circuits) (then car might continue to run on Alt). (+BATT)---+---(Batt Temperature RELAY)---(Alternator and rest of Car, incl starter relay drive) | (Start RELAY) (Starter) It'd need careful checking once built, to ensure safety, but should be good and light. Also, LiPo needs to be rated for the Alt charge rate.

I searched your thread, and couldn't find LiPo (or LiFePo). You mentioned wanting to drop the weight of the battery / cables, and you may like to look at those batteries. Even small ones have frightening output current capability, and you can get large capacity ones, though the $$ goes up. But, if you don't need lots of emergency reserve capacity the weight difference is Yuuge. I have one the size of two ciggy packets which''ll put out 3kW for 90s, at 20Volts. (Disclaimer, the charge volts are different, and the cells need to be properly balanced, or they catch fire...)

They'll do 10A, but they'll run hot. Diodes are cheap, get big-uns.

Yup. More detail helps with a recommendation. E.g, sizes of batteries, type of load, kind of supply / charger.

As drawn, you'll only get 5V - V(be) of the xststor (4.4v) over the inductor. When it turns off, there's no path for the inductor current to 'kick' voltage to the tach. It'll just try to maintain the steady current (if any). Probably easiest to put in the 2nd transistor as you're suggesting. Level translations can be surprisingly tricky. Good diagram BTW, nice n clear. (Hand sketch is good, too).

Ping me, bro

^ this, but, workmate has something like that in his camperbus, very pleased with it so far. Edit, combustion air is separate from heater air.

Windows? Eagle PCB gets used a lot, is limited to small output PCBs for free version, which shouldn't affect schematic only. KiCAD is full on industrial, free, but may not meet your easy to use criteria. I've been meaning to learn it for a few years, but I have Protel muscle memory, and libraries.

Measure current? Heater will suck bulk juice, and should be easy to see if it's intermittent. I have a clip on meter which'll do DC, you can borrow. Won't even need to undo the wire to put ammeter in circuit.