smokin'joe

is there a point in time, after which, that a de-reg'ed car CANNOT be re-vinned/rego'ed? or is someone scamming the wifey to screw down a price ??????

would this help him ? sell engine, keep bell and box http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/ford/engines/auction-955510924.htm

awesome purchase. nice clean truck, i do love your rust comments, this is not a rusty 60 series........... they are convertables when they get decent acne.

don't google it......... pink triangle pick up spot............ it would seem

what brings you down these parts ? would be keen, but super broke

blurb says the Carter is 6psi.........would still need to be trimmed back to increase performance. i run a Facet red (4-7psi) pump with regulater set at 3.5psi. 2x m6 cotton-reels for mounting will quieten it .

rods are the same for both engines. piston and crank are not.

yip, grass cart

sorry mate, but the threaded rod for steering links won't last 5 mins......... been there, failed !! get some thick walled tube and thread inside

won't it be a YT175 motor if it is a pull start ? can't remember any 2 wheelers having a pull start in that size range. believe they share some parts with dt175, but i doubt you'll have a 6-speeder unless it's a hybrid

have you tried cleaning out under and around the oven box ?? they are often full of soot/ bird nesting/ etc and the fire wont draw if it blocked.

really ?? i thought CFM at pump was CFM at pump, and FAD was exactly that. so if it a 3 cyl 15CFM compressor, then each would be 5 CFM so pressure and flow would be equal to single cylinder 15CFM ?? flow is more dependant on size of delivery plumbing and tool fittings.

did the glass bearings fail ? i would be inlcined to use a toyota box, w-50 maybe ?

what the advantage having 2 extra cylinders??

what's your budget ? the belt driven 15cfm ingersoll rand i bought has served me well for over 12 years, this is it's 17cfm brother for similar money: http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/compressors-pumps/compressors/auction-907062266.htm here's the one i have: http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/compressors-pumps/compressors/auction-910077738.htm weak point i have found is the wheels don't like rough ground ( centres break) and they nearly fit through the rear-side window of a VN Commonwhore !

i often found the hilux abs fault was often wheel sensors covered in crud, or wiring damaged near sensors

poorly adapted factory bits usually work epic, one dosn't want to over-complicate things too much. 32/36 is probably one of the better options without the expense of a side-draft set-up. unsure on jetting for your usage, only ever supplied the adaptor and mainfold, or used them on bigger engines without changes.

what cable actuator are you using on the Weber ?

yeah, fuck, bugger. dragged the uki shitter into shed last nite,ripped deck off, today made pivot points and reinstalled deck,to find i will need multi-stage ewe-rooter to make it work better-er-er-er-. pivot friggen nice, though........ one handed empty stys

it's a case of who you know, and who you ask 'round these there parts' found a free 12v pump, just gotta remove also sourced 2 x 30mm ewe-rooters. one at 420mm-ish stroke the other 300mm ish stroke. $35 each just need to scab a diverter and control valve and could be in business.

that is currently my first failable option, then i go to dedicated hydraulic pump if it dosn't work.

only if FOB mounted, otherwise be knuckle-smashingly cunty to pump up. ideally mechanical or electric pump so i can add another aux ram and diverter valve later for additional duties. push comes to shove i can use a boat winch or a manual ram, but i do like the idea of in-cab control

it dosn't need to be super high spec, as the deck is only 1050mm long, and the pivot point will be approx 250mm from end, so there is only about 80% of total weight being lifted (400kg if wet wood). the deck only needs to be raised 450mm-ish to get it past 45 degrees, so if it is on a scissor-type underbody lift, ram would only need 250mm of stroke, or 500mm if direct acting front of body. going to have a look at some rams this morning and have a chat to a couple of system designers, so will report back. fucken 'puter froze on me last nite whilst bidding on an old hospital bed that had been used for M/Cycle repairs, manual pump, but remote ram, could have worked, if not could have used it for the aux ram i want to employ.

how are they driven ? pulley, helical cut gear, or electric ?

originally had the low-pressure Facet pump(without reg), lent it to a mate who accidently sold it with his car and replaced with higher presure Facet pump. both self sensing, bith the higher pressure one would flood slightly and bog down too much, thus needing to regulate pressure. can't remember who's book i was reading, either Carrol Smith or corky Bell, but he claimed 0.25PSI of fuel difference can pull major gains (lap times) in certian NA applications, believe it was .5sec around certain US tracks in stock RX-7