kws

It says in the "Applicability" line that its "type A", which is the top diagram that matches the light in the photo As we say on an almost daily basis at work; diagrams are indicative only.

Probably too late, but i tend to use white lithium grease on my regulators. Seems to stick well and not dry out. I've also heard of lubricating the spring too so it doesn't get rusty and increase friction.

My fuelflow pump actually recommends having a filter before the pump

Thanks for the offer but I have a rather sizable collection of manuals

Im not 100% sure how accurate this is for a fielder, but i think they're just a long body Corolla of the time. I harvested this from Haynes.

It might depend on the pump. Certainly, with my Fuelflow 015 it doesn't care, and I have the inlet on the bottom and outlet on the top. Seems happy. Some pumps prefer to be gravity fed though.

Oh yeah running Speeduino on the last one (albeit in 3.5l from) unlocked so much potential from the engine. Did plan on doing it to this one too, but as correctly stated, I'd rather spend the time and money on the Marina instead. I keep telling myself this car was never meant to be a project, and was sold as "needs a little tlc"...

Hey, it's not bad for an old 3.9 v8 and 40 year old injection

Uh, I’m an idiot. I’m very embarrassed but have to clear this up in the interest of being open and honest. I stuffed up. It turns out that when I set the car up on Fuelly, somehow I missed changing over the odometer reading from KM to Miles in the settings. Since finding, and changing, this setting, it’s looking a whole lot different. It’s still not good, but it’s a damn sight better than it was. 15.8L/100KM or 14.9MPG.

Yeah it's a bit ugly, but I've tested LED bulbs in the standard brake light positions and they weren't as bright. Probably has to do with the size/shape of the reflector which is really narrow and rectangular (the fog light one is round). The tail lamps are even worse with LEDs, which is why I went with the halogens. E: Here's testing I did earlier. Bulb LH, LED RH. The LED creates a sharp hot spot, but nothing around it

Just a quick update. Since people weren't being asphyxiated when following me anymore, they had a tendency to sit on my bumper now. I wanted to make it a bit more obvious I was braking, so they wouldn't become one with my bumper. The brake lights (and tail lights, for that matter) on the SD1 kinda suck. I guess they were OK for the time, but these days where everything is bigger, faster and worse, they're small and hard to notice. The standard brake lights use just the two outer red sections of the lamp units. They don't really stand out and could be mistaken for tail lights. The tail lights use an even smaller section inboard of the brake lights I previously fitted halogen upgraded bulbs to the tail lights so they were brighter, and feel that's enough for rearward visibility. Some people have fitted dual filament bulbs to the fog lamps so they do double duty as brake and tail lights. To upgrade the brake lights I had two ideas. One was to fit a high-level stop light at the top of the tailgate glass, so higher vehicles could see it easier. The second was to change the massive rear fog light sections near the number plate, to act as additional brake lights. The first one was easy enough. Clean the glass, and stick on a suitably retro high stop lamp. Due to the super flat angle of the rear glass, getting a high stop light that works properly is a real pain. This one is adjustable for angle, and even then it only just works. The one benefit it has is that the higher you are behind the car, the brighter the light is (and the less visible the lower standard brake lights will be). To wire this in I just ran the wires down the C pillar under the rubber seal, and tapped into the RH brake light 12v feed, and ground. Easy. The next one required some fettling. Because in NZ we don't need rear fog lamps, I'm OK to eliminate that functionality, which makes this job a lot easier. All I did was unplug the 12v feed to the fog lamp bulbs and run a short jumper wire from the 12v brake light wire to the positive terminal on the (ex)fog lamp bulb holder. Done. It's completely reversible, and since I swapped the fog lamp bulbs to LED bulbs, the extra load on the brake light circuit should be minimal. Here's a quick comparison of the stock brake light setup, and the modified setup, with and without tail lights on. Some might say having 5 brake lights on the back of the car is excessive, but I disagree. It's still nowhere near as bright as the LED brake lights on the Honda, but should draw attention to the fact that I'm braking a lot better than the original setup.

Its been bleeding expensive to get here (owes me about $600 give or take with all the bits it needs) but it's already proven its worth on the Rover and should be handy for tuning the carbs on the Marina when the time comes.

I pulled the plugs the other weekend and they were black, but not carboned up, so I didn't clean them. It will be interesting to pull them again after this tank and see how they are then.

Lucas has a drinking problem. No matter how I drive him, or where I drive him, the fuel consumption is horrific. I needed to fix it, or I couldn't afford to keep driving him. I track the fuel-ups for all my cars using Fuelly. Not only does this allow me to compare consumption between different cars, but it can show me just how bad it can be. The Honda averages 7.0L/100KM on its daily commute. This was measured over about 120,000km of fuel ups, but fluctuates a lot depending on traffic or if we take the car away on a long fun. Lucas on the other hand... has cost me $347 in fuel, to cover 446km. That is an average of 25.2L/100km (9.3MPG). The last trip was a round trip up the coast and back, on the open road, mostly at 80-100kph. And it averaged 26.9L/100km. WTF. I can pound on it and push it hard, and it's just as bad as if I baby it and cruise at low throttle. It was time to see if I could fix the issue. I had my suspicions that it might be the flapper Air Flow Meter. Long story short, this is a device that has a flap inside it (hence the name, Flapper), that opens and closes depending on how much air is being drawn into the intake. The ECU measures how far it's opening and closing, by a change in resistance as the flap moves, and uses that to adjust the fueling. More open, more air, more fuel. I recorded a short video of what the flapper is doing when you rev the engine. The U shaped copper arm, and the black track it runs on, are how the ECU knows how far open the flap is. The main tool I needed was a wideband O2 sensor. This measures the air mixture in the exhaust fumes and gives a readout of how many parts air to fuel there are in the fumes. The "ideal" is 14.7:1 (14.7 parts air, to 1 part fuel); this indicates a nice complete combustion. A bigger first number means it's lean, and smaller rich (more air, or less air to fuel). You can't run an engine at 14.7 all the time, so the ECU will vary the fuel mixture as needed (richer when accelerating, leaner for cruise, as a rule of thumb). I have a wideband setup already, the 14point7 Spartan 2 from when I installed the Speeduino on Effie, but that doesn't have a gauge, so no instant readout. I needed a gauge. I tried to buy a cheap secondhand setup but unfortunately, it was DOA, so I ended up opening the old wallet and throwing money at the problem. After a long trip on the slow boat from Freedom-land, I had a nice new Glowshift digital WB02 gauge in my hands. Along with the gauge, I also bought an Innovate tailpipe clamp, so I could use the sensor without having to drill and weld a bung into the exhaust (and so I can use this setup on other cars, like the Marina). The other night, I soldered a 12v plug to the gauge wires, so its plug and play And then set the gauge up and free-air calibrated it (so the gauge knows what "fresh air" smells like) Yesterday I slipped the clamp into the exhaust and tightened it, using a bungee cord around the exhaust hanger as a safety. It didn't come loose, but I wouldn't want to lose it if it did. The reason I specifically went for the Glowshift gauge, was that they use a remote control box. Not as neat and tidy as the likes of AEM or Innovate where the O2 sensor harness plugs directly into the back of the gauge, but it gives me a good couple of meters of extra wire length, since the O2 sensor has its own wire to the harness, and then the harness goes to the control box. The control box then has another long wire to the gauge. I placed the control box in the center console, and ran all the wires to it The O2 sensor wire is carefully shut in the tailgate seal, and then run through the boot, over the back seats and to the control box. The gauge is duct taped to the steering column shrouds. I plugged the 12v socket in, fired up the engine and off we went. After the initial sensor warm-up, we had this on the gauge, on a cold start This was to be expected; rich. The ECU dumps more fuel in when it's cold, to help the warm-up phase. It should steadily lean out as the engine warms up. It didn't. No matter how I drove the car, it was always reading 12-13:1, except under one condition; hard acceleration, where it went VERY lean. I could back off the throttle and cruise as much as I wanted, and it was still rich. No wonder we were drinking fuel. Now, the "lean" condition. When using this much fuel, the "lean" reading surprised me. It's very unlikely it was actually lean, and what I believe happened was what's called a "false lean" condition. This happens when there is a slight misfire (such as fuel fouling a plug slightly under load) and the sensor reads the uncombusted air/fuel mixture as lean (because there is "unburnt/unused" air in the mixture). After a couple of laps around with the engine warm, it was obvious that the engine wasn't going to lean out the mixture as it should. I had previously checked the temp sensor, and that was well within range, so I knew it wasn't that causing the richness. This was the gauge on a hot idle It's slightly richer! Madness. It explains why no one would ever follow closely, and when my colleague did, he promptly got a headache and was light-headed. As mentioned above, my first port of call was the AFM. The one in the car wasn't the one the car came with, it was an unknown one from my spares. I swapped it when I got the car (before the engine swap) because the one with the car had been tampered with and I wanted to eliminate that. All that turned out to be a non-issue compared to needing to replace the engine, so I just left the unknown AFM in the car. I grabbed the AFM that came with the car and set about reinstalling it It's very easy to do. Removed the plug, remove the hoses on both sides, remove the two front bolts and then push it towards the back of the car to disengage the rear fixing, and then remove it. I swapped the original AFM in and fired the car up. Instantly I noticed just how smooth the idle was. It wasn't rough before, but always had a slight stumble or unevenness about it. That was gone. The wideband was also showing an immediate difference. Sure, this was a warm start, but see the photo above for a comparison. It's significantly leaned out, and far closer to that ideal 14.7:1 ratio. I took the car for the same short drive I did on the previous AFM, and the AFR was drastically different. Instead of a rich 12-13:1 under all conditions, I now had a slightly lean 15:1 at cruise, high 13s accelerating, no more "false lean" when under load, and the engine felt smoother and responded better. It was a great start! I had expected I would need to tweak the AFM settings to adjust the mixture, but it was damn near perfect as it was. Next, I had to take it for a bigger drive, including some hills, to see how it reacted and make sure it didn't lean out under load, so today I did a 60km round trip (or the same route as my daily commute). Lucas worked flawlessly. The engine seems smoother, but as expected it lost a little "punch" that it had when it was rich. The engine still pulls like a train, it just feels more refined. I confirmed that the engine was not running lean under load, and although I'm still missing my extra enrichment, the engine was happy enough. Hopefully once I can fix the enrichment I might gain some of that punch back. We stopped to check everything was OK with the car, and grabbed some photos It's a great looking car and I do enjoy driving it. One of the biggest differences I noticed on the drive, people now follow too close... Maybe I should have kept gassing people, just to keep them off my tail. Once home I removed all the wideband gear, as I'm comfortable that it's running as well as it needs to. The next test will be to drive it for a full tank and see what economy the next fill records. Interestingly the tailpipe clamp is discoloured, but isn't sooty, which is a good indication to me I also hit a milestone when I got home. This is how many KM I have put on the car since the 3.9 engine went in So, I have an excuse to drive the car more now, just so I can see how many miles I get out of this tank. Better get onto it then.

It's taken five months or so, but I've finally finished welding the rear valance. It needs a good skim of bog, and the number plate will hide a multitude of sins, but it's done. Just a couple more areas to weld and that job will be done for now. Life would be so much easier if I had repair panels... From To

According to the site, it looks like Silverstream landfill has changed its tune. It used to limit you to only a few lites of oil, before they started to charge you commercial rates to dispose of the rest. Can't see that on their price list anymore, so I guess I'll load the car up and make it someone else's problem for $25 (plus weight, i guess). Otherwise its a handful of trips over the hill to the Porirua dump to do it 10L at a time

Same issue here in Wellington, I have a about 70 odd L of old oil to get rid of but its not free at the dump here. Council used to run a yearly hazardous waste collection, but stopped doing that a couple of years ago because actually getting something back for our rates was too much to ask.

Ugh, you know its not gonna be good when you have a mix of choc blocks, waterproof boxes and loose relays floating around.

I find this with mine too, especially with changes in season as ambient temps for me make a big difference in how the welder feels. As it gets colder i have to reset the settings to get it welding nice again.

You're pretty limited as it's only certain inspection places that can do it, not just any old workshop. I used VTNZ, and even then not all branches do it. My best advice is to go over the vehicle with a fine toothed comb and fix anything that could be an issue, now - especially anything rust or structure related, and not give the inspector anything to write down. That extra time now will pay dividends later when you don't need to get a panel beater report for rust or something.

Yeah that sounds a lot like the soft limiter my Fit has in neutral. Basically launch control.

Unfortunately can't help on that. Not my car (was a shared space) and I can't recall who owned it. It was a regular at the local autocrosses with the HVMC. You should definitely start a thread on it, exas are cool.

Visiting is the only way I have ever got anyone there to do anything, and even then the old woman at the counter is possibly one of the worst creatures I have ever met. Make sure your wallet is full, and either be prepared to walk away or pay whatever price she pulls out of her arse (despite being quoted a different, lower price).

Yeah I didn't have much luck with Hylomar and coolant tbh. Used it on a thermostat housing and it leaked almost straight away (yet its doing a good job of sealing my cork sump gasket...). That threebond is the utter bees knees (its OE Mitsubishi too iirc), but I've also had pretty good luck with Permatex blue rtv (its what I ended up sealing the aforementioned thermostat housing with and it's mint).

Another WOF inspection completed without issue. Great success. I did get a couple of advisories this time, one being the front wheel bearings might need adjusting for the next WOF, and the front swaybar D bushes are perishing, so I have some minor work to complete soon. Overall, excellent result. Not a glamourous photo, but it does the old shopping run pretty well. Hopefully this time I will be able to do more than 650km between inspections (6 months). Winter isn't the best time, but he lives outside anyway, so better to use the car than have it sitting on the drive.