Benno

I'm not sure if I'm interpreting what you want to do properly, but have you tried making a new plane offset 5mm from the top face (click on top face, reference geometry, plane, change offset). Then create a new sketch on your plane, select the edges you want to sketch (hold down control, click on each edge), then either convert entities or offset entities. I would probably recommend offset entities so there is a 1mm gap.

Yeah, old Oamaru is ideal

Finished installing the lowering blocks. Finally sitting at a ride height that I'm happy with. Rear suspension is pretty soft so gets pretty slammed with people in the back. At some stage I'll get a new leaf added and springs reset, but happy with blocks for now.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42943-rim-halveslipsbarrelsshells/

Having it in DXF is a better idea as it is a universal file format, so can be opened/edited/viewed in pretty much all decent CAD programs. Laser/water cutters etc may not accept solidworks files if people want to send files directly to the cutters.

^probably not the best idea to be talking about that sort of thing on a public forum man, seems like a good way to get them audited

I don't suppose you took a spare set of springs from that parts car? If so, what I would be doing is trimming them down with an angle grinder to get an idea of what ride height you want and see if there are any clearance issues. You can then see if the shocks are captive at that height and figure out what springs you want. Generally lows are 1.5" drop and super lows are 2" drop, depends on the manufacturer a bit.

Max size for blocks is 2" and you'll never get a cert with cutties. You will need to get the leafs reset to go that low, I would suggest getting them reset around 2" or similar then adjusting the height with blocks. Similarly you'll either need to get the springs compressed or get some shorter replacements. You'll probably also need shorter shocks to keep springs captive. If the car isn't lower then 100mm (or close enough) and the lowering is done properly you won't need a cert.

Looks good man, I actually quite like the look of it with the black bumpers etc. More pictures!

I am hoping to make it look tidy enough that from a quick glance it looks close enough to factory, people seem to get away with it. So do I retain the top section or bottom section on that diagram above?

When I lower the back of the escort I need to do something about the bump stops to keep any decent travel and was wondering what the best way to go about doing so was. I have a spare pair to cut up. I was planning on cutting where the red line is. Is that bottom bit sufficient or would I be better removing it and re-attaching the top bit that was cut off? I was planning on cutting with a hacksaw and tidying up with sandpaper and/or a flap disc. Either way should have enough travel, just wanting the best option for actually absorbing bumps and (hopefully) passing wofs.

Will do my best to make it, would be awesome to get some decent pictures of my car. If raining, still show up to Hilton street?

So close to being finished though man! Haven't considered just getting an auto sparky to finish it off for you? I doubt there would be more than a couple of hours labour. Probably easier to sell running and complete too?

Made some more progress on this, a mate gave me a hand to get the rear loop section welded in and make a seat pan. The seat pan just needs a small 'hump' added to it to increase tyre clearance a bit. Going to get a wrenchmonkees style (kinda like a subtle cafe style) seat made up something along the lines of this Pretty stoked with how things are coming along!

Cheers Felixx - worked a treat. Bling - That's what I ended up doing, worked well. Other cars I've done ball joints on haven't been quite that easy, but the escort was a peice of cake to get off

Haven't really done much on this piece for a while. Have been focussing on bikes and only really driving this when the weather is crap or need to move something too heavy for a backpack. Finally got around to installing some (moderate) low. Haven't got any 'after' photos as my camera fucked out, will try and get some later on. Not quite as low as I would like, but can't really afford to trim anything off without losing captivity and the price was right (box of beers). Need to lower the rear a bit now, anyone got any reset leaves or blocks they want to sell me? Keeping an eye out for a cheap 1600 motor in need of rebuild and a 5 speed.

Felixx - have facebook messaged you. Brocky41 - I have got a screw type I will give a crack, if that doesn't do the job I'll be in touch. Cheers

Christchurch

Does anyone have a spring compressor and/or ball joint splitter I can borrow for a few days? Will compensate with cash/beers Contact me on 0273420024, cheers

I'll be keen on friday morning provided i can get off fucking jury service :/

I'm away 16th, would be keen for 23rd

Thanks. So essentially the rest wheel needs to be covered down to axle level? Shit that sucks, looks like I need to make a removable bit or something

What are the WOF requirements for a motorcycle rear guard? I'm guessing you need something, does it need to cover a certain % of tyre or anything? I've seen several sports bikes which appear to have no rear guard at all from factory, but assuming same rules don't apply to modifications. Cheers

Whats the go for rear guards with regard to WOF? Is one necessary, if so are there any requirements for it (how much wheel it covers etc)? Sports bikes seem to get away without a guard? I'd like things to look as legit as possible so they don't pry too much deeper and look at things like modified frames..

Good shit, loving how quickly this is progressing. What have you did about the rust on the bonnet?