SOHC

I am not sure what the shop did but they had it for over 3 weeks and couldn't fix it, We will try clamping off different parts of the system, but yes It may need some factory equipment for bleeding

I was thinking more about brazing them up and grinding them back

I reckon its tapered brake rotors, as it happend after he put in new pads would a faulty ABS system cause a sinking low peddle?

It feels like air in the system, the shop spent days trying to bleed it, it has ABS to

2005 ssangyong musso has a low brake peddle, the owner took it to a mechanic who had it for a month and couldn't find the problem. Anyone have an idea?

If you have money for things in spray cans, CRC gasket stripper is good for removing carbon and anything baked on If you spray in on a wite number plate the paint will all lift off

Have you done anymore on this project?, I have been enjoying the progress. contrary to popular belief the Oldsmobile 350 diesel is a fine engine.

I have zero right now, Would measuring off the inside of the rim be ok?

How much toe in should I give an old ford with beam axle and cross ply tires? and should I measure from the rim or the tire?

Factory ford ones with custom made bungs tig welded in. I have the underfloor duel master cylinder setup

With front raidous rods with welded in ends do they need to be tested? If you relocate a master cylinder and make a custom brake peddle, it needs to be TAC approved?

I saw one of them on trademe and was thinking about getting it, but people sed make sure you carry a spare distributor with points. I saw jacar sells brakerless universal kits,

Can anyone recommend me a brakerless ignition conversion kit that uses points cam lobes to trigger the unit, I want to convert my 1942 ford distributor, I have a factory distributor timing jig so it wouldn't be impossible to make. Or I gess I should just buy one that is allready made?

I have 2 pairs of glaziers pliers, one pair is steel the other alloy with rubber pads witch are mint for cutting corners

I have a 15HP 3 phase motor running on single phase with capacitor start to get it going and it generates the missing phase to run another smaller 3 phase motor witch needs to start under load and then work hard.

I have a nice one I got from a glass place, its filled with normal cooking oil but a bit of kerosene works well to, it will cut curves, I saw someone cut an laminated Isuzu windscreen with a router on youtube.

The wiring in the engine bay on my Volvo was so fucked inside the conduit there was 6 wires together all with no insulation, at the main connector plug someone had blobed silicon allover the wires to keep them from touching, but everything worked fine.

John still has those motors, he is on the shore now, you might be able to get them alot cheeper? A cople of my triumphs had bearing problems, one did a hell clatter till it got some oil pressure, the other just had a regular heavy knocking from one rod bearing, it was driven all over NZ like that for years

I have a roll of steel 3/16 Bundy witch is even easier to bend than the copper/ nickle, its utter shit.

Its the stuff you must use on cars, this stuff or steal, yes its the same size as a coon

once you get it running advancing the timing till it pings under load them back it off till it just goes away,

Dose anyone have any 3/16 copper nickle brake tube they want to sell? I don't want to buy a roll

I think there are some pics in this thread already? anyway I built it a few years ago

Can I have the regulator and stuff? I want to make an LPG motorcycle

I need to hear long lengths of steel to tapper under the power hammer for sculptures