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About Kiwibirdman

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  • Birthday 07/08/68

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  1. Some more photos Gemini Booster in place, note the not so deliberate mistake The mounting studs are not level. Bloody booster has to be rotated 18 degrees, yet another job that gets done twice. Here it is with the hinge down. During the shed raid Mr Vapour decided that he needed the VX commodore booster and master cylinder that I had got. I had the great plan of using an HQ PBR master. I thought they would be every where for not much money, not so. I'm going to have to go to Zebra parts to get another master cylinder, hopehully ther are still a couple of commodores there. Here is the diff with new mounts attached. Sorry Neal(threeonthetree), the yellow paint will be gone before this goes back under the car.
  2. Here are some updates and photos The engine sitting in the engine bay, gives an idea of size of engine and lack of space. This photo gives a better idea, clearance of the inner guard to make space for the alternator A new gearbox mount, designed for a TH350 and just happens to bolt to a 4L60E with the right bolt holes for a HQ cross member. These two are of the steering . My nice piece of dowling intermediate shaft gives a good idea of how tight it all is. The right hand picture shows the bottom of the column and the shift arm. It all fits just. Still some clearance to be created at the time of photo.
  3. I had an oh shit moment a while ago when I tried the new HQ type V8 radiator I had bought. Width wise it would fit OK, bur height wise it was 100mm above the the support panel. I did think about some serious cutting to make it fit. Something in the back of my brain said there is a better option that you have seen before. There was a green EH wagon that made NZV8 a few years ago and they had used a HiAce van radiator. I got the dimensions and had a measure, all looked good. This morning I picked up a slightly used one off trademe for $50. This first non Holden part.........I'm on the slippery slope.
  4. I had been holding off on an update until after the shed raid, I didn't want to give away too much before the team came round and had a look. The engine is in and mounts welded up, still some finishing to do on the drivers side once the engine comes out again. The gearbox cross member is in place. HQ holden narrowed by 300mm. Again some final welding to finish off when the engine is out. Brake booster brackets made, final hole in the firewall to finish off. We didn't do it the other night because my kids had gone to bed and the die grinder was going to make too much noise. I have been stuffing around with the diff angle and finding how much change there is in angle in normal suspension movement. I have decided to have the diff 2 degrees nose down, same as the Firebird. I have traction bars that mount under the spring pad at one end and below and forward of the front spring eye on the chassis. At expected ride height they are almost parallel with ground and the diff angle stays constant. The main thing I want is no axle tramp and I think these will do the trick.Traction is always going to be an issue with 215 tires. Still plenty to do but getting rapidly closer to all cuts cut, shuts shut and then off for final rust work and paint. Photos to come.
  5. When is threeonthetree going to become 4speedOD????? Time for a name change Neal now that you have swapped the bogan holdens for the British stiff upper lip.
  6. Good work on the warrant.
  7. That is true. It is also dependent on the ratio of total distance from pivot point to pedal v pivot point to connection to the master cylinder/booster. The higher the ratio the easier the pedal is to push(more leverage) but the further the pedal has to travel.
  8. Here are the engine mounts. The strait up and down one is the passengers side which I made a couple of months ago. The funky one is to go around the steering universal. This is the second attempt as the first one didn't have a big enough dog leg. As usual second attempt took about a quarter of the time of the first one. A guy who I met recently did the finish welding with the 250 amp mig in his garage. Here is the size comparison of the VZ commodore booster and the gemini booster. I'll let you guess which is which. I'm going to use the original holes in the pedal so shouldn't need a massive amount of boost to get good brakes, the leverage is about 9:1 where the commodore was around 7:1. I am a little worried about how much travel on the pedal, have to wait and see once it's all together.
  9. Here are some photos as promised The final mount for the steering column. The steering column in is final place A couple of the steering so far. Still more clearance needed around the universals.
  10. Nothing like inviting the Club round for a garage tour to get some motivation. Bottom mount for the column is made, just needs a couple welds and that can be ticked off. I have fitted the steering universals and made a nice piece of pine dowling to connect them. As usual mocking things up finds the other bits that don't work. My funky engine mount with a bend in it isn't going to work so another will have to be made. Once again the second should take about 20% of the time to make of the first one. Once the engine mounts are in , all the clearances for the universals sorted, I will get an intermediate shaft machined up. The other thing that I had wasted a heap of time on was trying to get the VZ Commodore brake booster to fit. After may hours I gave up and chucked it in the corner. Some research on the web told me a Gemini booster was the go. I was talking to a mate about this and his comment was good luck finding one of those. One search on trademe found a crowd called Olds Cool who were wrecking one. A couple of emails, a bank transfer and the courier arrived a work with it 3 days later. Looks like it will be the business, I can cut down the original brackets, the bonnet spring and rocker covers will miss and the VZ master cylinder looks like it can be made to work. I promise photos soon.
  11. I like it very much, especially since it has a Pontiac engine in it.
  12. Over the Christmas break I had great plans of all the work that was going to get done............. The usual things like going away and getting side tracked into working in the garden, sorting out the pool and all the other crap that owning a house and having a family got in the way. Along with a fair bit of socialising, drinking and BBQing. However there was some garage time. Since the last update and being so proud of my bracket to mount the column, I found the last section of the crash pad that goes across the front of the dashboard. When it was fitted I found the column shift hit the crash pad. After a lot of swearing I figured that dropping the column 10 mm would give the necessary clearance. I persevered with the mount I had made for about 3 hours and then came up with a much better plan. A new mount that goes under the edge of the dash was made in about 1 hour. At the same time I realised that there is enough space to keep the original shifter arm on the right hand side of the column. The bottom mount has been made and everything fits. It is amazing how much time get consumed making things to fit. Kumeu was very good to me. I needed wiper arms and my mate who was with me found a pair in a box a guy had full of stuff for $2 per item. Out of the same box I got the plastic vents for the demister and a pair of OK door handles. Photos to follow.
  13. I like your new cowl induction bonnet. Did you buy it here or get it shipped over from the states?
  14. I spent some time looking at these. I was thinking of ripping the T5 out of the Firebird, getting a Chevy S10 extension housing to move the gear leaver forward and having a manual box. Then the electric power steering would be an option. I've decided to stay with the auto box so a column shift is the only answer and making that work with an electric assist is making things way to difficult right now. If the steering is really heavy I might revisit it later. Heavy steering would keep the wife out of it, all her cars end up with a dent in every corner and most panels. Thanks for the input.
  15. Spent more time on the steering column and now have it in the right place. Dropping the bottom has raised the steering wheel and made more space for my legs to get in. I measured from the top of the wheel to my chest sitting in the car and then did the same in my chev and the distance is the same. Here is the bottom end I still have to make up the bottom mounting plate. Everything has been checked for clearance, spark plug lead, column shift linkage, brake pedal and steering. More cutting is going to be needed for the steering universals and shaft. I going to cut down the input shaft on the rack and have the second uni very close. This will give more space for engine mounts.