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About Kiwibirdman

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  • Birthday 07/08/68

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  1. A quick up date before the monthly meeting tonight Big progress on the headers. I am glad I'm not paying for the time that has gone into building them. So far parts alone is $600 and still not finished. Here is the passenger side. It is only tacked together. Everything fits.........just. I am aware that the tube lengths are no where near optimal but I don't think dropping a few HP is going to be noticed. And the drivers side half done And a photo taken just as the welder lit up
  2. I am using standard Holden rubber mounts. There is more clearance than the photo shows, there is about 10mm to the lip where the 2 halves of the subframe are joined together. I will be cutting that back when the engine comes out. Fingers crossed that the motor doesn't move that much.
  3. These are the headers that go out through the inner guard. Being the difficult contrary bugger that I am I want my exhaust to go down the side of the engine. If there is a hard way of doing something, that will be the way I want it.
  4. Here is something from Monday night last week. Being the proper engineers we are after modifying the fuel tank we pressure tested it for leaks on the weld. My compressor is over the other side of Auckland so had to go round the corner to my mates place who is doing the welding to use his compressor. Here is the tank all sealed up. Pressurized it to 8psi and found 1 hole in the weld on the new filler neck and 2 in the cap for the original filler neck. Had to take it back to my house, fix the welds, then back to the compressor to check again. Tank is now in the car!!!
  5. I went shopping at Autobend last week and came home with this lot. I still need to go back and get some more, they were almost out of the 41mm 2 into 1 cones, I got 2 and need 4, Some more U bends will be needed as well once I hve used up this lot and figure out what I need to finish off. Here is the start of the drivers side First 2 pipes are tacked into place. There is no way to get proper firing order tri-y design Passengers side Not much space down there, nothing hits!! Had to stop last night at 10:15 because the cut off wheel made too much noise and the kids wouldn't go to sleep. Here is a mock up of the intake I'm going to cut down the bend so it sits in the middle of the inner guard and will have a cone filter on the end. I wanted to make a cold air induction but no space.
  6. Checked the firing order and the separation is correct. Started building the passengers side and it should all fit OK. Going to be really tight on the drivers side. I don't think that Im going to be able to get the correct cylinders connected, no space to cross the number 3 and number 5 pipes over. I wonder how much of an issue it is?
  7. I have done a fair bit of looking and head scratching about the headers, passengers side is front 2 cylinders and rear 2 connected, drivers side are first and third, second and fourth. I am not getting worried about primary pipe length, what ever fits is how it will be, the secondaries will be a long as possible. I get the feeling this will be another session of cut, fit, tack, cut apart, retack...........repeat endlessly until they have been built about 3 times before I am happy.
  8. Some more photos Todays effort was to make a new mount for the park brake cable under the car. Another build the first version then have to make the same again. The one on the right was the first version which was OK until I cross threaded the bolt and stuffed the thread. Here it is the mounting bracket attached. Here are the header plates that came from Autobend. I have the passengers side one in place. It looks like I might have to open a couple of the bolt holes to line things up. I have been thinking about the headers a lot. The plan is to try and build a set of Tri-y's, the pipe lengths will be all over the place because of the lack of space. Off to Autobend on Wednesday to buy a bunch of U-bends and reducers. Any thoughts or ideas welcome on the discussion thread.
  9. A long overdue update and photos Here is the brake booster, the lean to the motor is to create clearance between the plastic reservoir and the bonnet spring I went to fit the park brake and found that the brake pedal was in the way. Nothing that 2 hours of stuffing around couldn't fix. Once it was sorted and everything connected the position felt pretty good. Here is the modified fuel tank. An the hole in the floor for the filler pipe to come in. The steel box section beside the hole is for the tank mounts and the floor has been welded to it. Much stronger than before. I had been thinking about the seat belt mounts. There are doubler plates available from the likes of Fraser cars at $15 each and they still need to be drilled for the rivets or bolts that hold them together. I need 12 sets because the car came mounts for the driver and front passenger only, nothing for the centre of the front seat or the back seat. The original mounts on the floor disappeared when the floor pans got replaced. I had some 3mm plate and decided on Saturday to make my own plates. 2 hours later I had 20 50mm x 80mm plates with rounded corners and beveled edges as per the certification code. The still have to be drilled for the bolts and then painted. And for a laugh here is my DIY linisher
  10. Good progress in the last couple of weeks despite having to go away for work Master Cylinder Mounted to booster with (hopefully) the correct clearance for the pushrod. Header plates have arrived, so now need to buy some U bends and start cutting and welding Filler is on the petrol tank, very useful having a second tank to chop up and steal the filler neck from Mounts for the traction bars cut off, shortened up by 15 mm and rewelded. Photos to come
  11. Not much progress, spent a chunk of Saturday afternoon playing musical wheels with Glyn, the owner of the big blue mig in my garage, and his 1965 396 big block SS Impala. We swapped the 14x7 and 14x8 S/S cragars off my Firebird onto his impala. The 14x8s on the back fill out the guards nicely, so we left them on for a while. Firebird needs some love but not until the Holden is finished. I did get to Zebra parts today for a VZ commodore brake master cylinder. Mr Vapour got the last one I had when he spied it with the booster. I thought that there would be lots of them around, lots of the VT, VX and VY's being wrecked, not many VZ. Hopefully tomorrow will see me in the garage again, a night off from being the kids taxi.
  12. Clint came round today to have a look at the car. After much looking he said mainly happy. The only thing that I got wrong is the mounts for the traction bars are too low by 10mm. They will hit the ground if a back tire goes flat. Not major, a bit of cut, shut and paint to fix. The other things are a gusset on the rebate in the front chassis where space was made to fit the top A arm and a strong back on the engine mounting plates, all easy stuff. Plugging away with other bits, fuel tank is mounted, still have to figure out the filler, brake pedal support is on the pedal box, some more holes in the floor welded up, UJ fitted to the steering rack. The list of stuff to do has got shorter, must be time for a new list.
  13. It's been nearly a month since the last update. I had a 2 week holiday in Bali which slowed things up. Got back into it tonight working through the list of stuff to finish off, Universal is mounted to the steering rack, found that it hit the engine mount so that had to be clearanced, put the starter motor on and there is space to shift the knock sensor to the other side of the motor so the dip stick will fit into the HQ sump, clips fitted to the diff for the brake lines. Clint (Cletus as he is known here) is coming round for an inspection for certification next week so lots has to be done. I want his OK before it all get blown apart again and painted. Progress for sure.
  14. Its amazing how life gets in the way, last Saturday disappeared in being a taxi service for my eldest son for soccer out in Kelston, about 40 mins each way from home. I stopped into Pick a Part to see about another VX commodore master cylinder. Plenty of VT which were different and looked ugly as sin. I'll take a trip out out to Zebra tomorrow, their web site says they have 2. I did make some progress, new cans of paint and the rear axle is racing shiny black, no more 70's yellow. I forgot to take photos (as usual) while it was all on a couple of saw horses. New brake lines got made and a new HQ type flexible hose turned up from Australia. The mount on the body had the spot welds drilled out and will be moved. Car is back on the ground and suspension wound down (I love the threaded rod instead of springs at this stage). I'm pretty happy if I can get the final ride height here. A piece of 4x2 slides under everything with plenty of clearance. I also got a box from Summit racing today.
  15. Over the weekend the ears on the diffhead got cut down to create some clearance. On a sedan diff they have a big hole for the suspension arms so no structural. I started cleaning up and painting to get rid of the lovely yellow. I ran out of best quality VHT black so no photos until I get some more and it is one colour. The brake booster got cleaned up as well and is very pretty in copper coat primer. Ordered a new flexible brake line for the diff and will make up new hard lines before it goes under the car. Also ordered a Willwood distribution block/proportioning valve from summit racing. I had grabbed the bonnet and one front guard from the panel beaters. I was playing around with how low I could go and still get full steering lock. Here the tire is about 15mm under the guard and goes lock to lock with no touching.When the car gets a wheel alignment it will be set up with a bit of negative camber so tilting the wheel in a bit will make more space. To quote the great philosopher Aaron Kaufmann of Fast and Loud, lower the altitude, raise the attitude. Once the diff is back under it will play round with the ride height, ground clearance will be the limiting factor I think.