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Me new GT40 Replica


rdaum

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Nice!  that 600 is probs a bit too much carb for the lil rover. common problem  with 600 on the rovers. the 390 or 450 work much better but are pretty rare to find. in saying that you have maanged to find a very rare car as it is so maybe you have that ability..

anyway, maybe it is well cammed and high comp and a well modified card to suit so i could be talking shit. 

but looks choice!

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6 minutes ago, 440bbm said:

Nice!  that 600 is probs a bit too much carb for the lil rover. common problem  with 600 on the rovers. the 390 or 450 work much better but are pretty rare to find. in saying that you have maanged to find a very rare car as it is so maybe you have that ability..

anyway, maybe it is well cammed and high comp and a well modified card to suit so i could be talking shit. 

but looks choice!

Funnily enough I have an edelbrock 450 I am investigating. It had a 390 early on according to the documents that came with it but it wasn't doing justice, perhaps the tuner was the problem though. I'll definitely be looking in to a more suitable carb. They seem to work together well enough for now, I'm going to catch up with the builder soon and hopefully find out what the engine is exactly. Which of course I'll report on here...

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The dirty bitch has bitten already, melted a wire, only off the kill switch, only in the middle of papakura.. mate came and helped push it off the road in to a carpark and wedged a piece of my work lanyard in to hold the wire in to get me home..

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  • 1 month later...

Leaky sump gasket so went to investigate while the pan was off. Largely ok from my not too invasive look around. Sump baffle bolt snapped while undoing which was cool so easy outing blew out the time frame. Hopefully reduce the oil slick. The numpties had been running it on castrol 0-30... cant imagine that's done it much good.

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well the good news is the cam lobes looks pretty good and now you also know its running a flat tappet setup. 

stock looking rods ( but hard to really know ) and its been sleeved by the looks and the bores look like they're pretty fresh still.    in terms of the oil, prob best to run it on something bit thicker with a decent zinc additive or that penrite  with high ZDDP additive.  but pay to find out a little more why that grade, there could be a reason but cannot think of a decent one.

 

while the pants are off, whip a couple of the caps of the main and big ends to see what the state of bearings are like with such thin oil. if they're fine then you can put some better lube in it and she can do another turn!

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Yea I was relieved to see the state internally.

There will be no good reason for the oil except that's what his mechanic had in stock. Last owner was not a gear head and the mechanic was a modern car person sadly.

Have a few bottles of the Penrose vintage zinc stuff in the shed so she'll be getting some of that. At this stage I'm not sure I want to know any more about the state of the bearings.....

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Gotcha.

LOL i hear you.. but it is a prime time to just put new ones in if they have warn the coating off.  generally all possible to do without removing the crank, can just slip them in..   like before you have to go through the pain of removing the sump again and getting another gasket etc etc. 

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For sure, If I cant get the leaks sorted in situ then itll be coming out over winter anyway, may be traded for a windsor if that's the case. Need to talk to a certifier as I suspect they would want to see a cert on it, despite probably miniscule power gains. How do you driveshaft loop a transaxle...

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If it still has a standard steel sump pan, check the flange on it is flat before refitting. People always nip the bolts up too tight to try to fix a leak, and end up warping the flange around the bolts and it'll never stop leaking until thats fixed

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