Gavs Eunos Roadster

[~Slideways~]

Finished block sanding the high fill primer with guide coat. 

Now sprayed a few coats of primer surfacer. Came out looking awesome. Still need to wet sand the whole thing again with 400 grit. 

 

 

 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Not sure which project thread this belongs to but the 1.6 Mivec engine for my Lancer comes with quite nice extractors from factory. 4 into 2. I don't have the lower section, which must take it from 2 to 1. 

They don't look like press mends like the horrible Mazda one.

I have the MX5 B6 exhaust flange cut off (still with factory weld bead inside the ports), comparing this to the Mivec manifold the spacing is very close!

This is with the remains of the cut off mx5 tubes basically sitting inside mivec ports.

 

 

Could possibly cut off the mitsi flange and weld on the mazda one. Will offer it up to the engine bay when I get a chance. 

The design is MUCH better than the Mazda one, maybe it'll be worth modifying it to fit?

[~Slideways~]

Have wet sanded about half of the car with 400 grit. Coming out good.

Took a break from breaking my back to have a go at removing the weld in the exhaust manifold flange.

Tried a few methods but a tungsten bit and a rotary tool ended up working best, still a bit of a slog.

I really rate these cheap Ozito rotary tools, I've worked it hard and it is still good. I've had TWO dremels just stop working randomly, not even working them hard.

 

 

Opened up port versus the one with the weld still blocking it:

 

[~Slideways~]

14 months since I started sanding this thing... wife was taking kids away for an afternoon so planned to put some paint on the boot lid and some other bits that were ready.

Mostly to test out the paint and make sure I wasn't going to end up with reactions etc. Better this than on the whole car.

I've never painted 2k clear so needed to test how much to put on and mixture etc etc.

Of course the weather was terrible so I couldn't even move it to the space I have mostly ready to paint in. Thought bugger it and made a booth of out plastic sheets in the gap between the back of the Safari and the garage door. So I could keep the fumes out of the house (bedrooms above garage). And couldn't move Safari out into the rain because I am working on a few spots of rust.

 

Mixed paint.

 

Didn't take photo's during, but here is the final product. Some bits got into the paint but should wet sand out hopefully.

 

Got some runs, but only where the clear has accumulated at the edges in a few spots. But good practice for the rest of the car.

Very happy with the colour, its exactly what I wanted, a very rich sort of burnt yellow rather than a pale yellow.

Clear is still drying, I didn't realise it takes 24hrs! I guess thats why they have paint booth ovens.

Can't wait to do the whole car, needs more sanding though.

[Adoom]

Is the yellow also 2k? Or is it 1k and you painted over the top with a 2k clear?

Looking good!

[~Slideways~]

3 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Is the yellow also 2k? Or is it 1k and you painted over the top with a 2k clear?

Looking good!

Yellow base coat is 1k, I was surprised at first. I went back to the supplier and they said it's normal. So just went with it.

 

 

[Roman]

That colour is amazing! 

Going to look awesome

[tigerstyle]

On 05/05/2022 at 19:09, ~Slideways~ said:

 

 

 

Could possibly cut off the mitsi flange and weld on the mazda one. Will offer it up to the engine bay when I get a chance. 

The design is MUCH better than the Mazda one, maybe it'll be worth modifying it to fit?

Really like this manifold research, are the bolt spacings similar at all?

If not I think I've seen people offering waterjet flanges for $50-$100 Could supply drawings of each and have a hybrid made up, best of both worlds, or continue boring out the mx5 one to fit.

How does the rest of the manifold fit in the engine bay, there is a lot of room there, but no risk of it hitting the frame rails there at all?

[~Slideways~]

On 03/12/2022 at 18:41, tigerstyle said:

Really like this manifold research, are the bolt spacings similar at all?

If not I think I've seen people offering waterjet flanges for $50-$100 Could supply drawings of each and have a hybrid made up, best of both worlds, or continue boring out the mx5 one to fit.

How does the rest of the manifold fit in the engine bay, there is a lot of room there, but no risk of it hitting the frame rails there at all?

Cheers! The boring out of the flange isn't making it any bigger it is just removing the internal weld. The welds make it a smaller opening than the ports in the head.

The mitsi manifold spacing should work with the mx5 flange/port spacing. I haven't gone any further on this yet, other projects taking up any time I have.

I doubt the bolt holes will work but it's an interesting though, it might be possible to redrill it. But my plan has always been to cut of the Mitsi flange and weld on the Mazda one.

I am yet to confirm clearance, I think I will end up cutting the bottom section up to have it point more towards the rear of the car as it currently points straight down (which could still work but not ideal).

 

[~Slideways~]

Time man, is it even real? Like, how do months disappear?

Anyway, I semi turned this power less garage into a sort-of-paint-booth by adding lighting and covering stuff with the remains of an old marque. I originally started covering the ceiling during the GIB crisis of 2022, now it just looks like I am a redneck.

 

I think the body is ready for some colour, it took ages to sand the door jams and to remove all of the latches/trim/etc.

Not sure when I'll do it, I do have some leave coming up for the kids school holidays but it'll probably all disappear again.

Door jams

 

I'll paint the doors separately after sanding the inside bits. Not really enough room to do them at the same time as the body.

 

Next I need to mask again since most of the masking tape has aged and dried out.

 

It'll be done one day. My main reason for not getting this done yet is I spent the time on cars to sell and down size. So I got the FWD lancer donor car road legal and sold that before Xmas, then I got the Safari wof'd (rust work etc) in order to daily that instead of the Celica. Then I sold the Celica. Man I don't like selling cars, so many annoying people to deal with. But that's 2 cars off my plate and a bit of money back, plus I have the Safari to get me to work.

 

[~Slideways~]

It's yellow! came out pretty good for my first time painting with 2k clear.

On the day I had issues with the clear coat and it ended up quite orange peely. When I did the tests a few posts back it came out nice and flat, I think it must have been the temperature on the day. 

So I've waited a while and tested wet sanding and it's coming out great. Just an extra step I wouldnt have had to do if the clear went on better. Oh well I'll see how I go when I paint the doors and see if it comes out better.

 

Really happy with the colour, it looks a bit more orange in photos. 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

[Roman]

That looks so good. Well done 

[~Slideways~]

Wof'd again after almost exactly 2 years, had to put a set of new rotors on it. It was 3 degrees C and late but I wanted to drive it again 

Not totally done with the paint, probably going to have to redo the clear coat on the bonnet. Not sure what happened but it wasn't fully hardened so the 1500 wet sand put scratches in it. Very annoying but it looks good if you don't look too closely lol.

 

[~Slideways~]

Drove it to work today and man it feels great, these are such fun cars to drive. Just makes you want to heel toe down shifts everywhere like an idiot.

Also feels really good with the upgraded sway bars I put on just before starting the 'just fix that dent'.

Smaller Momo steering wheel is much nicer than the stock one and a bit more leg room. A bit harder at slow speeds with the manual rack.

 

EDIT: typos.

[~Slideways~]

I picked up another mx5 recently, with a super crappy paint job. So I am stripping it back and practicing body work/paint on it.

While it's in pieces I took the intake manifold off so I could test fit the 3d printed ITB manifold I made ages ago, must be 2 years already. This is only printed out of PLA+ but final print will be in Carbon Nylon stuff.

The engine is messy but I'll fix that later.

 

 

It lines up nicely and doesn't foul on anything at all. In fact it frees up heaps of space: 

 

Not sure if I will run the throttle cable above or below and also need to see if I have enough cable movement to open the TB's fully.

 

There is about 100mm space for the trumpet before it'll touch the brake line junction box thing, which could be moved too.

 

Since it was a double throttle plate design, which I've removed the first set of TB's there is already roughly 65mm before the throttle plates. There is probably some Maths to do here... 

 

Total length to the head mounting surface is about 175mm without trumpets

 

[~Slideways~]

The bike ITB's didn't come with the injectors and they needed to be a long pintle type. I was originally going to try use some 1jzgte vvti injectors I had already and see if the short pintle was a problem. But then I looked at the b6ze mx5 injectors and they are quite long too.

Test fit, using some o-rings that fit the bottom end and spaced out the fuel rail with some nuts.

Looks like they are meant to be there?!

 

They are a basic single hole type unlike the 1jz ones but should still work, plus bonus is they sit pretty much flush too:

 

[~Slideways~]

Bought a length of silicone joiner to fit the manifold side of the ITB's:

 

 

 

Used a hose clamp to use as a cutting guide:

 

30mm lengths:

 

Clamped to the ITB end but not the other yet, it's tight enough for this testing:

 

Also figured out the bike TPS and made a temporary adapter loom thing...if you can call it a loom...scrap wires maybe?

[~Slideways~]

Also this test bench mx5 is one I bought with a terrible terrible paint job, not the colour... just the quality:

 

 

I originally tried sanding it, but it was so bad I used chemical stripper to take it right back to the metal. The idea was to practice body work and paint then try make some money on the side.

Lots of sanding, primer and then paint. Came out awesome:

 

 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

The TPS wiring was interesting, the 1.6 NA6 MX5 has a 3 wire TPS, you'd expect 5v, Ground and Signal.

But it is just an on/off switch on these, unlike the 1.8 (and apparently the auto 1.6). For a Speeduino or any ECU you need to change it to a VTPS. Variable voltage, not just on/off. Normally a BMW one with an adapter like earlier in this thread.

I did some testing and could not get the Speeduino ECU to get a signal from the bike TPS at all, even the BMW one. It looks like the stock ecu/wiring doesn't provide 5v to the plug at all, and the Speeduino plug and play ECU's reuse one of the wires to send the 5v's. So since I made my own using a Speeduino v0.4.3 universal board I needed to do this manually.

See brown wire here, this takes 5v from the speeduino board, to the adapter board to the pin that goes the the TPS plug:

Once I did this, the Tunerstudio software works with the bike TPS no problem.

 

Now the next thing is that I can't seem to get the Speeduino to turn on the fuel pump. I forgot to remove the SIG fuse like it says in the manual, but I think it may actually be the same issue as above. The manual is referring to the PnP MX5 speeduino ecu, not the universal board I have used.

The 'mx5 adapter board' to use the original mx5 ecu plugs also has no instructions at all so I am just working it out as I go along.