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BlownCoronas 1988 Toyota Crown TC24SC


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  • 1 month later...
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Hope the reclear job goes well. Lighting looks a million times better.

I find it's good to have a high power LED hand held/wand light to inspect darker and hidden away areas between coats to make sure you have covered all areas. Be careful that the magnet in the light doesn't stick to the wet body though!

Some unprofessional garage experience advice, I hope is useful and not telling you to suck eggs. The first 1 or even first 2 coats of clear dont have to look mirror finish. A satin finish is ok as youre building up to mirror, and the clear will 'bite' into layers as you go and level off. I find it's easier to be light on the first two and then finish with a heavier coat or 2.

You also want to be sure you're leaving enough time between coats for the clear to hang on.

This way you are also into you groove with using the gun and can control the thicker layers at the end.

Have you got a pressure regulator at the gun? I found this was really useful if you've got a smaller compressor that struggles to keep up on the big panels. Can make quick adjustments if needed to finish a big area.

Sounds a bit stupid but if it's tight space like a small garage, suit up, mask on connect air hose, every thing but paint in the gun and have a practice at doing an air coat over the car. Youll find any tight spots where you cant keep the gun at the right angle or height from the surface or it's generally difficult to do what you want. Places where the air hose gets snagged and you gitter the gun. Gives you a chance to think about it or change layout to avoid hang ups.

Are you going to doing the wet the floor of the garage trick to keep the dust down? If you do watch out for any drips off the air hose when doing the roof etc where you hold the gun above the surface.

 

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Gun mounted light sounds interesting... shall investigate.

Reading back in the posts you wernt sure on what dry areas were, you've probably watched enough YouTube now to see, but it's exactly as it sounds. An area where you don't have enough clear on for it to self level and form a mirror finish, it looks almost like a Matt or satin finish. First coat of clear almost looks dry/satin. This can also happen when you over spray onto a dry area and the over spray can't bite into the dry area.

I find it amazing how the clear can self level, I was doing some gloss black bits in 2k ppg CT with clear over, after doing the gloss base coat and having a mint mirror finish I then red scotch padded it back to flat to key the base coat. Red scotch was advice from paint supplier, which seemed like madness to me. Followed advice, light coat of clear to a satin finish first coat then 2 heavier coats to gloss and the clear just brings it back to a mirror.

Take your time, build it up to a good finish in 3 or 4 coats. Leaving time to dry in between. Keep the gun consistent height, spray pattern at right angles both left/right and up/down to the work. Move the gun at a constant speed across the work.

To do the the heavier coats of clear, I try to keep my speed across the work and paint flow out of the gun the same as base coats and first coat of clear, maybe a little more paint flow. To get the thicker coat over lap the fan a bit more to the previous run across and build up this way.

Going slower over the work to get a heavier coat has never worked out for me.

Don't have the garage too hot or directly heat onto the panels like the guys said ealier. You'll burn the outside of the cake and leave the middle raw! Leave the heaters on a few hours before to hopefully to warm everything up around garage to keep the heat in the space.

As I say this is all unprofessional garage advice which I'm happy for the pros to tell me I'm wrong.

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  • 7 months later...

need to fix the failed muffler so i can even hear the blower first!

the blower isnt very loud, i fitted a pod filter even though i usualy dislike them, just to let the sound out some more, but i want to look into how i can make it louder again. 

options include, more boost and the kits you can buy (or just make) which run a hose from right inside the blower inlet into the cabin, with a sealed drum like mebrane over it, which transfers the sound into the cabin and makes it howl. 

 

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The crown I wrecked out sounded close to that but not quite that roudy, when I get the GZE in the hilux going il play round with a metal airbox with removable lid to try getting some intake dooorts

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  • 1 month later...
On 09/08/2019 at 22:55, BlownCorona said:

Another parcel arrived from japan this morning with more or less everything i need to tidy the car up. 

new tail light in the hard to find configuration and tint. super stoked on this one, it looks brand new and ill have to polish up my "good" one to match now. my old RH light had a big crack in it and water had gotten inside and made it cloudy and corroded, would have seriously let the car down post paint. 

corner light, again, looks almost new. existing one was cracked and suffered the same as above. has black trim where as my current one (and grill) has chrome. ill either paint the whole set black, or maybe spray chrome for the rim. either will look good. 

rear mud flaps. im missing the RH one and it was cheaper to buy a pair. the rear looks quite incomplete without them 

RH rear window regulator, current one is fucked and this will keep my daughter happy in the summer months!

heater control panel, featuring working off button! a luxury my car has sorely been missing. 

and finally, perhaps the best score for nearly no money, a clutch pedal and manual spec brake pedal. 

naturally there are some other things around the interior of the car that are cracked, but i think this is the extent ill go to for importing parts. its a daily and the things remaining that are damaged can be glued or ignored, possibly found local if i get lucky, but they dont impact on the whole experience!

 

cant wait for paint and manual, itll be like a totally different car. 

 

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I have the same problem with the RH tail light. Can I ask where you found this and how much it was please? I really need to find one asap. Cheers. 

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i got it from the Japanese auctions, there are plenty on there. 

i use jauce.com to search for parts and purchase, use google chrome with auto translate, and consider looking up Japanese search terms, its a front end to the jap auction sites, as well as a freight forwarder. you pay a fee (they have a calculator for this and shipping estimates) they organize freight within japan to their warehouse, where you get free storage for parts for a few months, so you can ship all the stuff you want to NZ in one box. 

shipping's not cheap at the moment.

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11 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

from memory the tail light ran be about 200 bucks, and i dont think this included shipping but it may have. 

Awesome, cheers. I know what you mean about the prices. I was watching a set on Yahoo.jp the other day which started at 22,000 yen and ended at 66,000! If you could find the name of the seller that would be a great help because I can search for them and see if they have anything else. Cheers. 

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On 25/02/2021 at 22:03, 88_GS131_GZE said:

Awesome, cheers. I know what you mean about the prices. I was watching a set on Yahoo.jp the other day which started at 22,000 yen and ended at 66,000! If you could find the name of the seller that would be a great help because I can search for them and see if they have anything else. Cheers. 

sorry looks like it was too long ago and the auction details are no longer online. 

 

beware that there are about 5 different tail light options of these cars. mine is probably the rarest, but only judging by parts availability. i paid what ever my tail light was going to end at because it was the first LH good condition correct style light id seen. if you want cheap car parts, get a cressida haha

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