enzee

Assume you've checked thermostat is working correctly? Or tried running with no thermostat? I see you had head gaskets off, what about other water passage gasket? No gaskets wrong size restricting flow?

Did you change the water pump when rebuilding the motor? Or had it off since adding super charger? Nothing silly like the impeller has dropped off the shaft? Did you reroute belt arrangement? Belt turning the water pump correct way? Probably all ready covered these off, just spit balling ideas

Gun mounted light sounds interesting... shall investigate. Reading back in the posts you wernt sure on what dry areas were, you've probably watched enough YouTube now to see, but it's exactly as it sounds. An area where you don't have enough clear on for it to self level and form a mirror finish, it looks almost like a Matt or satin finish. First coat of clear almost looks dry/satin. This can also happen when you over spray onto a dry area and the over spray can't bite into the dry area. I find it amazing how the clear can self level, I was doing some gloss black bits in 2k ppg CT with clear over, after doing the gloss base coat and having a mint mirror finish I then red scotch padded it back to flat to key the base coat. Red scotch was advice from paint supplier, which seemed like madness to me. Followed advice, light coat of clear to a satin finish first coat then 2 heavier coats to gloss and the clear just brings it back to a mirror. Take your time, build it up to a good finish in 3 or 4 coats. Leaving time to dry in between. Keep the gun consistent height, spray pattern at right angles both left/right and up/down to the work. Move the gun at a constant speed across the work. To do the the heavier coats of clear, I try to keep my speed across the work and paint flow out of the gun the same as base coats and first coat of clear, maybe a little more paint flow. To get the thicker coat over lap the fan a bit more to the previous run across and build up this way. Going slower over the work to get a heavier coat has never worked out for me. Don't have the garage too hot or directly heat onto the panels like the guys said ealier. You'll burn the outside of the cake and leave the middle raw! Leave the heaters on a few hours before to hopefully to warm everything up around garage to keep the heat in the space. As I say this is all unprofessional garage advice which I'm happy for the pros to tell me I'm wrong.

Hope the reclear job goes well. Lighting looks a million times better. I find it's good to have a high power LED hand held/wand light to inspect darker and hidden away areas between coats to make sure you have covered all areas. Be careful that the magnet in the light doesn't stick to the wet body though! Some unprofessional garage experience advice, I hope is useful and not telling you to suck eggs. The first 1 or even first 2 coats of clear dont have to look mirror finish. A satin finish is ok as youre building up to mirror, and the clear will 'bite' into layers as you go and level off. I find it's easier to be light on the first two and then finish with a heavier coat or 2. You also want to be sure you're leaving enough time between coats for the clear to hang on. This way you are also into you groove with using the gun and can control the thicker layers at the end. Have you got a pressure regulator at the gun? I found this was really useful if you've got a smaller compressor that struggles to keep up on the big panels. Can make quick adjustments if needed to finish a big area. Sounds a bit stupid but if it's tight space like a small garage, suit up, mask on connect air hose, every thing but paint in the gun and have a practice at doing an air coat over the car. Youll find any tight spots where you cant keep the gun at the right angle or height from the surface or it's generally difficult to do what you want. Places where the air hose gets snagged and you gitter the gun. Gives you a chance to think about it or change layout to avoid hang ups. Are you going to doing the wet the floor of the garage trick to keep the dust down? If you do watch out for any drips off the air hose when doing the roof etc where you hold the gun above the surface.

Box will be an early 20 spline T50 with the forward shifter position. Unique cast iorn shifter base not interchangeable with rear shifter t50. TA2* etc TE3* got them, think a few KE3* delivery spec wagon maybe aswell