SHIZZLs Super Hunter

[shizzl]

Carbs refitted for shitsngiggles .

[shizzl]

I’ll just leave this here…

 

 

 

After toying with the injection idea I just couldn’t do it.

picked up a pair of mikunis, slapped them on, hooked up the fuel line that was already there.

found a wiring diagram for using the stock dizzy with a bim024 type module.

found that the wiring I paid an auto sparky to do last year is cactus, so hotwired the module for now, pump isn’t running, great.

got spark. Wouldn’t fire off tdc, so figured the module may have advanced it by up to 30degrees. Guesstimated that on the pulley. And pop goes the weasel.

 

only ran it for this long.

now can sort the wiring so shit works, finish a few other bits.

order up a ae86 radiator.

 

but holy shizzlnut, it’s way quieter lol

[shizzl]

So had an opportunityi just could not pass up...

 

Bought back my plates for my throwback build.

This is the most important piece of the build. The rest can be recreated, but having its original identity is the cherry on top.

 

The driveshaft goes off to beattys next week.

Gearbox crossmember is done..used the original crossmember, and welded on new chassis tabs the same as factory, only 50mm further along the chassis.

 

Have a custom radiator and oil cooler being made at the momentfor it too.

Ill keep this buil in here seeing as yhe hinter has gone a bit dormant with a few wiring issues that are beyond me.

 

This build is easier, dine it many times before

[shizzl]

CAUTION!!! 

 

This post contains automotive pornographic images, may not be suitable for workplace viewing.

Discretion is advised.

 

Picked up my custom radiator and oil cooler set up today.

They even had a 16" fan that they mounted for me which hanges over the oil cooler, which would be ideal as the cooler is narrower than a standard rx cooler.

 

Sat it down in place and it fits so well.

The oil cooler brackets sit just off the chassis rails, rad cap neck clears the top of the slam panel.

Top rad hose lines up perfectly.

Lower should go well aswel.

 

No heater allowance on this one.

 

Oil cooler lines are going to be lush.

The lower line (rear) goes directly between the engine mount and swaybar.

The upper will only require 2 45deg fittings to be put onto a shorter line.

 

Was $1300 but worth it imho.

 

Also picked up a new ida linkage kit to move the throttle cab to the front..

Rear position would foul on the booster.

Shes mint now.

 

But i need to source an adjustable cable end that screws on.

[shizzl]

Like catching up with an old mate you havent seen in 20 years.

 

I think its almost exactly 20 years to thr day that i sold RX3UTE..

Now i finally got the plates back in my hands, have a 3rd b1600, have a flying dorito burner... just need the nosecone and some balls to start the process.

 

 

It all started in 2001 when i swapped an opel monza pos for a crusty un wofd b1600.

I quickly got it down on the ground and chucked 15x8s on it with 45 profiles.

Then i decided to primer it.

For some reason i had an rx3 10a grille sitting in my shed.so i decided to cut the b1600 grille and slip the 10a grille into it. Was a fairly good fit tbh..

Looked good with the grille badge.

I drove it like this for about a year.

Until some knobjockey ripped it off on my lawn.

 

Ripped out the gauges, steering wheel and wheels.

 

This prompted me to do some work on it properly.

So i pushed it into the little single car garage i had, and stripped it down and decided to put a 13b in it.

Found a s4 13bt block and box.

Got it in there and mounted, then found other bits that somehow fit to make it work..(s1 radiator and oil cooler, found lines to fit, found headers that fit).. it just worked. 

Then after some advice from Mark Julian at RES i had it fired up. I was stoked.

 

Then i decided to do the bodywork, so i blew it apart, shipped the deck off to murphys panel in waiuku where they warped the hell out of the sides, and paneled up the tailgate with a rollpan etc.

I deciddd i wanted a rx3 nosecone on it, so found one for $250 from a mate at pbms..gir home and lioked, measured, cobremplated, then cut..mocked up.. it will work!!!

 

Then found another panel beater to finish the fitting..picked it up a week later and the whole thing was in primer and guide coat..he was a legend.

So got it home and put it all back together, and had the plates on order.

 

Sent it to RES to be tuned. Then Andrew Smith rang me and asked if i wanted to out it on the dyno at the nats...hell yeah i do.

 

Its first maiden voyage on the road..no wof, cert or reg..no worries..

Once i got it back home that weekend i decided i wanted to paint it..it had to stick out, so i decided on lemon yellow with green pearl.

It was retina burning bright.

I got to the point that it was ready to cert, but for some reason i sold it for $13k instead..

I always regretted thag decision.

 

Then after hearing it got crashed, i was devistated.

But now i have my chance to get it back, and do it the way i want.

Love it or hate it, it was one of the most unique builds back then.

And im proud to have done that in a little shed with little to no tools or idea..i was dar from a mechanic back then.

[shizzl]

Did a thing today..

Lost a stack of cash..

Got hold of Azhar and picked up a 12a RX3 nosecone set... so good, comes with the grille chrome, upper trim and eyebrows.

 

Got back to the shop, looked at it..and went full send.

 

It actually felt like i had done this before..

 

Haha.. 

 

Actually come together quicker than previous one.

Upper is fully bolted on. Will bolt the lower to the upper and try my best to find a pair of rx3/808 guards to use the front 1/4 section for the flange.

 

This will all be bolt on this time.

[shizzl]

Ill be creating its on build thread shortly as its quickly overtaking the hunter .

 

Although that should be running over the xmas break.

[shizzl]

Devided to pull the carbs and refit the injection..

Grow a pair and figure out some wiring.

Ive got a surge tank and pump for this now.

Pretty much have everything i need minus enough efi fuel hose.

 

Im also thinking of running the battery in the boot due to the lack of room where the intake sits.

Only option is to run a small battery.

 

Have the loom run where it needs to go.

Just need to man up and blow a hole in the firewall for the loom to pass through.

Need a suitable grommet first before i do that.

 

For now ill be using the hubter radiator..

Until i can get someone to reduce down the ally rad outlets to suit the tiny 4age hoses.

Choice as

[shizzl]

Punched a hole through the firewall for the loom.

Its safely grommeted.

Ecu is wired up, new fuse box and relays set.

I only need to source some suitable ballast resistors for the injectors, finish wiring connection for this.

Also need to get a power distribution post to connect the stock power feeds aswell as the starter cable to the battery etc. Ive refitted yhe battery tray, and will use a small drycell battery like what i used in my stockcar and rallycar.

 

Ive even mounted the hard fuel line and return. Fuel pump will now mount under the car without a surge tank because i wont have time to make a "firewall" for the boot area.

 

[shizzl]

Attention Shoppers!!!

 

Got my new battery today.

350cca unit that i used to run in the stockcar, half the price of a ginungus unit too.

Made up a battery hold down out of scrap, doesnt need to pretty for now.

Also made provisions to retain and mount the stock washer bottle/bag.

Power/ground is sorted..

 

Decided to mount the fuel pump under the car, below tank level..without a surge tank.

Ill reuse the original return line on the top of the tank that was there when i got it.. surely if its factory, itll be good right?? 

Anywho....

 

Only need to find these pesky ballast resistor thingys to test fire it.

 

[shizzl]

Thanks to everyone who chipped in with some advise snd stuffs.

This was timed by just slapping the dizzy in at tdc.

How good. It barked off.

 

https://youtu.be/-MInAy-86bk

 

 

Only a few more things to finish off now.

Waiting on some alloy bends to arrive so i can modify the radiator outlets to suit the tiny 4age piping size. 12a=40mm, 4age=32mm.

 

Need a pod filter and maybe a elbow????

Couple more p clips on the fuel system.

Replace the driveshaft ujs

Blank off 2 vac lines on the throttle body.

Replace the temp wiring with goodly stuff.

Pull the box out, fit a sandwich plate, inspect the fork and bleed the clutch.

Refit carpets and modify the console cover.

 

Job done

[shizzl]

Bled up the clutch today, then noticed the fork was sitting in the wrong spot on the throw out bearing.

 

so pulled the box, found the metal retaining clip was bent.

smashed it back and reinstalled the box, now it sits great. Funny that..

 

not much left to do on it, probably a days work.

Couple of vac lines, finalise a bit of wiring, sort some radiator hoses/outlets etc. refit carpets and modify the console, fit the lower shifter boot.

and find a suitable pod filter.

 

[shizzl]

Wow howdy,

Humpty is all together again.

fitted a air filter off a pipe due to not many other options.

radiator was modified by Waiuku mufflers and worked perfectly. 
 

there’s only a couple of things to do to button this up now:

 

hose clamps on the intake elbow.

fit the o2 sensor.

replace the rear UJ that I have.

swap the 40mm blocks for 50mm blocks.

make a centre console cover plate to suit the shifter.

give it a wash and an alignment.

[shizzl]

Well boys!! It drives, and boy does it drive.

handles great, smooth acceleration.

so stoked.

no driving vid, no co-pilots available.

made up 50mm blocks from 50x50x5 shs. 
 

booked in for an alignment on Thursday.

 

just need a cert now 

 

 

[shizzl]

Did a thing and drove it home today.

off for an alignment tomorrow, drives straight as already.

definitely need to address the exhaust height, it’s low, too damn low now that I dropped it another 10mm or so. 

[shizzl]

I can’t wait to get these reactors retrimmed to a more suitable colour.

 

I made up a switch panel today just to temporarily *permanent* house the switches. 
 

have a kill switch, diagnostic switch and the red one has been set up to be the engine check light.

also made up the centre console plate and painted it. Need to get some black vinyl to finish it off. Then the screws will disappear.

also made a bellhousing plate to fill in below the engine.

 

running a golf ball for a gear knob for now

[shizzl]

Made up an exhaust shield as well as its less than 50mm between the tank and muffler.

[shizzl]

Not much to update really.

 

still battling the wof and cert process.

 

it’s seriously so fucked

 

the hunter however is driving so damn well.

[shizzl]

Got sick of waiting for someone to open a wof spot for this, so decided to gamble at VTNZ today.

 

hell of a laugh watching these guys try and figure out how to use all of the technology of 1972 Britain.

 

yup, had to show them how to operate the wipers, lights and horn 

 

apart from the cert stuff which is obvious, it failed on the following:

rr indicator no blinky blinky - already fixed

brake lights no shiney when stompy- brake pressure switch died (possibly blocked).

Lr brake imbalance, may still have a bit of air in the system, plus the fluid looks shit as again.

steering box doing British things and leaking. Yup good luck on that one cuz, might just drain the oil for recheck haha

the lady behind the desk scared the bijeebers out of me and said the plates had expired. I was like WTF KAREN!!!!

turns out she got the last digit wrong. 
so whoever had GF6958, your car must be farked

 

[shizzl]

Ordered and received a new brake light switch. Fitted and fixed.

winning.

that’s all electrodigitals working again.

only brake imbalance and steering box leak to sort out.