Benno Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 So I've bought a single side draft manifold and carb for the 1600 crossflow in my escort. It's an escort manifold so I can still run the brake booster. The carb is a Weber DCOE 40. Not sure what the carb is jetted for, will take note of what the current jets are when I pull it apart to clean things up. Has anyone run one of these before? Any idea what the rough jet size is? I've got a wideband gauge so I can hopefully get things tuned ok at least, but would make things easier if I knew I was in the right ball park. Secondly, how should this linkage work? Do I basically want to get a cable made the right length with something like this on it? Or am I better off switching to a new linkage kit? What end would I want on the cable? Easiest/cheapest to get one made, or are they easily available online? Finally, where am I best to get filters from and what type would be best? Not keen on open trumpets, but trumpets with a gauze filter might be a good option perhaps, anything to gain with them compared to a K&N style filter? Any other advice? I'm new to side drafts and know fuck all. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 I made my own linkages out of sheet steel so I could retain the standard link in case I want to return to the old setup. That one looks like someone has bodged it up to work off the rusty arm on the right.Also make sure the venturi are secure, just turned up a new one for the old man after it escaped at manfield!Keep away from the trumpet and filter route until you get the thing set up, one pop/misfire and the filters are gone. I set up a basic airbox with pod filter to get mine running, looks poo but it works.If you can find it, read the book 'How to build and power tune Webber and Dellorto carburettors' helped me a bunch to get things running and understand how it all works.Welcome to look at my setup to see what not to do! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Do you need to buy a manifold to suit? I know where one is. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 I made my own linkages out of sheet steel so I could retain the standard link in case I want to return to the old setup. That one looks like someone has bodged it up to work off the rusty arm on the right. Also make sure the venturi are secure, just turned up a new one for the old man after it escaped at manfield! Keep away from the trumpet and filter route until you get the thing set up, one pop/misfire and the filters are gone. I set up a basic airbox with pod filter to get mine running, looks poo but it works. If you can find it, read the book 'How to build and power tune Webber and Dellorto carburettors' helped me a bunch to get things running and understand how it all works. Welcome to look at my setup to see what not to do! Cheers man, I'll be in touch soon when I've finished exams, would be good to have another look at your setup. Do you need to buy a manifold to suit? I know where one is. Gaz Already got one, thanks though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 That carb looks like it's been part of a twin carb setup, you will need the appropriate throttle "cam" type linkage of your running a single. I would have thought a single 40 would be a bit small for a 1600 crossflow, most run twins, even my 1300 k series engine runs a 45mm single. You will have to get all the jets/emulsion tubes/chokes for what you are running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 That carb looks like it's been part of a twin carb setup, you will need the appropriate throttle "cam" type linkage of your running a single. I would have thought a single 40 would be a bit small for a 1600 crossflow, most run twins, even my 1300 k series engine runs a 45mm single. You will have to get all the jets/emulsion tubes/chokes for what you are running Thanks. Well it's currently running a weber 32/32, so surely a 40mm can't be any worse? One way to find out at least, got the carb and manifold for a reasonable price. Carb looked like it had been on the manifold for a while (fuel stains etc), so I'm hoping that they were run together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 A single 40 should be good for road work, and way cheaper to tune than twins (jets, emulsion tubes, venturis etc aren't cheap) ...but not to choice for racing. The 1600 motors like air speed for torque so a single carb is quite a good thing A Redline linkage kit will get you started. I'd make contact with Murray from Weber Specialities in Parity Place, Genfield, Auckland (if he's still trading). He can probably sell you everything you need and may well trade in your old 'jets'. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 It looks like he's moved, but is still in business http://www.weberspecialties.co.nz/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Some good info here, follow the links //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45634-handy-dandy-sidedraught-tuning-guides/#entry1408526 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Ok, still haven't made any progress on this but have a couple of other questions. The main one at the moment is what do I need to do with the breather? Currently has a setup like pictured, with the line connecting to a tee off the vacuum line to the brake booster. Can I get away with disconnecting this? Keen to avoid needing a catch can if necessary and would like to ditch this line if possible, would clean things up a bit so I just have the brake booster and dizzy advance vacuum lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2nd Chance Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 You will still need to run a vent from your crank case, just blocking it off can create issues with pressure inside the block forcing oil back into the engine. There is a good write up in burtonpower.coms tunning guides that may be a good read. Separating it out from your intake manifold is good though as it will stop any contamination of the air fuel mix with oil particles. This isn't really too bigger issue with road spec'd engines though. If it was me, I'd buy any alloy take off plug for the block and run a neat hose up the fire wall, then fit a k&n breather filter to the end of it. It's been a while but I'm pretty sure side drafts have non exsistant/erratic vacume signals which means changing over your dizzy for a mechanical version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.