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7m(bh)gte boost issue


Fat Dan

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inb4 bhg machine

Right after manual converting my mk3 ive had issues in high rpm getting towards full boost

i can hit full boost in low rpm- its definitely not overboosting

Vacuum sits bang on 20, if its anything like an rb its spot on.

Ive gone around replacing any questionable hoses etc and whilest it did make quite a noticeable improvement i still cant really hit full boost without it cutting and spitting and farting

the check engine light has been on ever since i did the conversion (which i removed the engine for) i assume its merely something to to do with the fact that the auto box had its own loom and ecu and its picking up that the tranny is no longer there (will run a diagnostics to confirm)

My old rb had a similiar issue and it turned out to be the coils it did have a bit of a miss though, supra runs "perfectly" however untill, full boost

any one have fresh ideas? i imagine it will be something stupid

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got the codes 12, 43 and 52 ( and a couple of air flow meter ones from when i tried to start it without the AFM plugged in) think this is my ticket here..

" Code 52 will ***** the timing and enrich fuel mixture. It's an electrical problem with the knock sensor circuit and is generally an easy fix. The 52 will make your car hog gas and sluggish/hate boost. Definitely noticeable."

car is definitely running super rich costs me 50 bucks to drive from pukekohe to manakau... and one of my knock sensors is actually broken, i figured it wouldnt matter.. guess it does, anyone know if i can just loop the wires and fool the ecu into thinking theres a knock sensor there or will i actually have to replace the sensor? only asking bout the hori way as i imagine finding a new one will be difficult/ just fucking expensive #apprenticelyfe

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google reveals that pre much erry toyota runs the same sensor, mint
 

12 Engine speed (RPM) sensor -circuit Wiring, RPM sensor,ECM

43 Starter signal -circuit Wiring, ignition switch, ECM

starter signal is likely my nuetral switch bypass

trying not to worry bout 12, tacho seems to work accurately, speedo is waay under, something to do with that

Hopefully

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"pretty much every Toyota runs the same knock sensor"

 

 

no no no no no no no

 

and 10 million more no.

 

You MUST get a 7MGTE knock sensor, or something with exact part number. (So, you probably need the 7MGTE one)  And no you cant just loop it off.

Toyota knock sensors are filtered to listen out for just a specific frequency that's generated when an engine with that particular bore size / block construction etc has knock.

So if you put one on from a different engine it's listening out for the wrong thing.
 

I've gone down this path before, trust me that it will cause you an infinity ball ache if you put the wrong knock sensor on there.

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I love toyodiy as much as the next man but you cant trust a list like that, it's mostly just lumping in Chassis which have an M motor in it.

I bet that a GA70, MA70 and JZA70s have different knock sensor part numbers if you looked them up.

You might be searching for a while if looking for a knock sensor from an LX76 diesel Mark 2... :clown:

Trust me I'm the cheapest kernt ever and always the first to hit up toyodiy for something haha... But wont ever mix and match knock sensors, after spending years chasing my tail for engine problems caused by fitting the wrong one. So long as you double check that any of the above models have the same part number on knock sensor, then good to go.

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new knock sensor, cleared all the fault codes, goes immensely better sounds better even, but still not quite right, but i am happy 

biggest suprise was that bloody HAC sensor, turns out its not something to do with A/C whoops lol

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