Fat Dan

mine ticks all the yuck boxes, PFL for the win, FL taillights are ghey, 7mgte is a good looking engine though, its got that going for it... i guess Dont worry bro, i must be a homo too, but hey my ma70 is 30 years old nek year, you cant find 7m parts easily and they have horrible interior colour options, sounds oldschool to me,.but my build thread got moved and i got all butthurt and stopped updating cos i thought no one was into it.. lawl

new knock sensor, cleared all the fault codes, goes immensely better sounds better even, but still not quite right, but i am happy biggest suprise was that bloody HAC sensor, turns out its not something to do with A/C whoops lol

Hey so yea. Any one of those models will suffice? Or is Roman correct? Efi is still witchcraft to me

i found that same list and was planning on bowling with that

Engine is fully standard don't wanna stress the 7m too much lol runs the same except shit as on boost as mentioned will update thread after I've raced some knock sensors

google reveals that pre much erry toyota runs the same sensor, mint 12 Engine speed (RPM) sensor -circuit Wiring, RPM sensor,ECM 43 Starter signal -circuit Wiring, ignition switch, ECM starter signal is likely my nuetral switch bypass trying not to worry bout 12, tacho seems to work accurately, speedo is waay under, something to do with that Hopefully

got the codes 12, 43 and 52 ( and a couple of air flow meter ones from when i tried to start it without the AFM plugged in) think this is my ticket here.. " Code 52 will ***** the timing and enrich fuel mixture. It's an electrical problem with the knock sensor circuit and is generally an easy fix. The 52 will make your car hog gas and sluggish/hate boost. Definitely noticeable." car is definitely running super rich costs me 50 bucks to drive from pukekohe to manakau... and one of my knock sensors is actually broken, i figured it wouldnt matter.. guess it does, anyone know if i can just loop the wires and fool the ecu into thinking theres a knock sensor there or will i actually have to replace the sensor? only asking bout the hori way as i imagine finding a new one will be difficult/ just fucking expensive #apprenticelyfe

inb4 bhg machine Right after manual converting my mk3 ive had issues in high rpm getting towards full boost i can hit full boost in low rpm- its definitely not overboosting Vacuum sits bang on 20, if its anything like an rb its spot on. Ive gone around replacing any questionable hoses etc and whilest it did make quite a noticeable improvement i still cant really hit full boost without it cutting and spitting and farting the check engine light has been on ever since i did the conversion (which i removed the engine for) i assume its merely something to to do with the fact that the auto box had its own loom and ecu and its picking up that the tranny is no longer there (will run a diagnostics to confirm) My old rb had a similiar issue and it turned out to be the coils it did have a bit of a miss though, supra runs "perfectly" however untill, full boost any one have fresh ideas? i imagine it will be something stupid

w58, manual driveshaft, clutch master and peddle and speedo cable siting in my garage now, also attached to mentioned w58 is a 1ggte, minus turbos, anyone wanty?

The only other motor going in my supra is a 2j yo but will bowl with the 7m till she dies, already Sussed some easy power upgrades, and am retorquing the head nek weekend, she should prove reasonably reliable chaps. Then its time to rock up to Oldschool meets and troll the bastard that thinks my poopra ain't oldschool

replaced the fucked coils, played around with a dodgy lead "new" AFM, got the bitch running miiinter, trans shifts reaaal well for a fucked box, ALL positions are drive even N and P though lol no reverse at all, made for a fun day.. cant figure out if its slow or just auto trans rubbish.. anyone have an M series manual conversion?

a compression test has yeilded positive results, a healthy 7M! who would have thought.. found a big crack in one the coil packs.. anyone got one?

dirt fucking cheap. wof and reggy still too, bought it fully knowing the implications of the 7m, factored the price of a headgasket into the decision of buying it even. i jsut cant say so no to the burgundy heaven that is the cockpit Ill have a crack at replacing the headgasket if need be, how bad can it really be? (famous last words!)

Been off the forums for while..(lost a bit of excess weight) parted out my old e70 wags and built a r32 skyline (wtf was I thinking). I got ran off the road by some dork trying to pass on a blind corner and wrote off m daily vt commy hack, got paid out and found a new toy.. so im back... with a mark 3 supra (WTF am I STILL thinking) Specs 7MGTEU (inb4 Yuck) Digital Dash (fuck yeer) Porno spec red leather interior (oh so lush) TEMS suspension(lol) Targa top (cause chassis flex is legiiiit) Electric everything (cos I REAALY love wires) Prrroblems Has Auto trans.(lame) trans is also blown (getting better ) front seats are average as fuck Motor is running on 4/5 cylinders and don't want to rev over a grand at all (any 7m gurus out there?) rough rear quarter Plan is to get her running properly again manual convert and just look cool as fuck with the T-top off. Moar pics to follow when its not raining

nice legs for a dude.. cheeeaaa budddy!

i oculd be keen on a 3a, do they have the same/similiar thermo set up compared to ae85/ae70?

This^, to me, in theory it sounds legal, but its hard enough getting your certed 80mm ride height a wof without "the man" getting pissy cos he cant fit his 100mm block under it

114.3 unfortunately (for you) buy em anyway there cheap cheap cheap!

I have six cheviot turbos im trying to get rid of, buy my wheels, then buy some adaptors.. proffit?

Pads are cheap repco items silverline or some shit, will just rub off a bit was thinking of doing that but was worried about wearing them unevenly. On the subject of the rotor, id say its an equivalent off another as all part numbers i found for a ke70 were discontinued cheers for the help guys!

Cant read numbers on pads disks msy be wrong theyte brembo items not toyota so maybe some kind of retrofit? Discs i pulled off had a min. Thickness of 9mm vs new disc is 11.5 other then that they all the same

Yeap that got it in a fraction more but no real difference... everythings just so damn tight :/

Lol cmon guys i know to push the piston in! Also doesnt appear to be binding can push piston in flush with calipper and it still wont play ball. Have to get pretty heavy on a mallet to get it even halfway back down. Almost like brake pads too thick? Is that even possible?

So i finally tracked down some new discs for my ke70 chucked em on got pads in and now i cant get the callipar over the pads without the brakes being jammed on. everything is new discs measure pre' much spot on to what they should be, should i just get the disks skimmed a bit? Or do some of you OS geniuses have some better ideas?

if you dont go cortina gear i say roll with 4age, run it on carbs, and mod a k series dizzy to fit, and youve got a completely mechanical and most importantly, SIMPLE swap, good power to weight ratio, good engines to learn on and IMO a 4age with some sidies on it look sexy, it will never be a race car, but will be quite quick for an old donk, nothing to really go wrong, no major hurdles in install process, and it wont blow up your stock diff in the first burnout, my ke 4age conversion cost me a bout 2g including exhaust and wiring but i went el cheapo with the radiator (need to buy a new one now D'oh!) interesting enough, the rubber mounts im using in my KE are factory escort ones on the rwd 4age mounts that get sold on TM so those mounts might be a good base to cut up/ line up in an esky too. i used to have a angle box with cortina running gear and cost me more then two grand to get it all in... just something to think about it