chris r Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Picked up a new muffler today. Yes my car is a mess Chopped old one out Tacked in place Fully welded in place and painted. I didn't fit that shortened resonator as I ran out of time to be making noise. Its a MUCH better volume now so I'm happy. Will still chuck that short reso in since I went to all the effort of shortening it to suit 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 @piazzanoob Came over and ended up helping (Did all the work) and reshaped the heater hose connection that was leaking. Massive thanks for that! It saves me pulling the dash out and replacing it. The other reso wouldn't clear things nicely so its staying out. Just need to swap the carpet over and finish the radiator mounting and filler off and its good to go. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 It took WAY to long to swap the carpet/rear seats etc over along with diagnose why the washer pump wasnt working and replacing dash backlight bulbs. Well worth the effort sorting all the little things that have been annoying me for ages bloody crx exhausts! Pink one was leaking/loud too. Wanged this together this evening out of the leftovers from the black crx. I even had some 2-2.5 reducers in stock which let me use the stock flanges. Yes its quite barry but better than a hole/leak 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 I ticked another thing off the list today - The key wouldn't work in the boot lock. I either didn't have enough fingers or couldn't get it apart when I did the door barrels. Google maps took me to three non locksmiths that definitely were not there. Fourth time lucky and it was actually there and I got it sorted. No pics as everyone knows what a key looks like. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 Filler neck and mounts welded up by someone who actually knows what they are doing Made some plates and test fitted. Seems to clear everything so I'll give it a paint and figure out a bracket for the fillerneck tomorrow I took a look at the rear muffler I took off and there wasn't any fiberglass left in it which probably explains the noise 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 wired up the fan and got the polarity right the second time so the flows the right way. Did a test fill with water and it bled up fine with no airlocks etc. heater started working too which is a first since i've owned it. ran it for 20-30 mins and it didn't overheat or leak. The fan cycled on and off a few times so I'm calling it fixed. Took it for a quick doort and the intake is now the loudest part which is how it should be. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 The fan is mounted now Made up a bracket in the vise for the filler neck/rad cap Played with the rivnut tool Test fit Jizz of paint I had a airlock when I filled it with coolant so put a bleeder in the top hose. Took it for a longer test drive and it goes well, Can actually have a conversation in the car without raising your voice now! The heater works now too which is nice for defrosting the windscreen. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Bloody fan hits the bumper when its refitted so I'll have to pull that off and re mount it. In shuttle related news... What do you do when you have no job and are saving the money you do have for a holiday? Buy a new turbo. I bought the nissan one years ago as a t28 but i'm not too sure what it actually is, Suspect its off a RFB of some description but its going on trademe. The disco spud should enough for my power goals 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post chris r Posted December 15, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 15, 2019 Ef8 is sold and in its new home in chch. The pink/red crx got $1 reserved and that's also sold and off to chch. Some brave person is driving it down. I know it's blasphemous but feels good to have sold some cars and have less crap. Managed to send some spares away with them both too which is a bonus. Next year I can focus on the shuttle and finally get the new motor in and making spooly noises 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 When I sold the crx I converted the cash to usd. My trip has been cheaper than expected and I've still got some cash left. I figured since my suitcase is nearly overweight why not add some more weight in the form of car parts. I've ordered a new bumpstick for the churbo shuttle motor and a cam gear to go with it. It works out way cheaper than back in nz. Springs and retainers are near as no difference back in nz 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share Posted March 21, 2020 3/4 race cam m9. They look small until you need to put it in a suitcase. I got a cam gear too. Will sort springs and retainers when back in nz. I chose it based on some good dyno results a magazine ran on a similar setup a few years ago and got really good results Specs are Lift: .456"/.428" Duration: 256°/268° Lobe Separation Angle: 107°/111° RPM Range: 2000-7200 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 So being the durp I am I didn't read the cam card until I got home for the valve spring specs. They are a order in thing anyway so I wouldn't have been able to pick them up same day anyway. Fired a email off to speedscience and I've got a set of springs and retainers on the way. Meant to be two week delivery but we'll see. I'll do some reading up and might attempt ruining the head with a diegrinder at some point 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 So the valve springs and retainers have arrived. I'll whip the head off when they arrive and swap everything over. while its off I'll give the bore a check for rust. So I've been doing some thinking. The manifold setup I've currently got sits stuff pretty low and the new churbo doesn't sit or clear things the way I would like it to. I'm too tight to buy a off the shelf one, and I wouldn't be happy where it sat anyway I've decided to make my own. I've ordered this sinco kit and will figure out how stuff wants to sit when I dig the shuttle out of the lockup. Also Mike from sinco is a GC answered some questions and was extremely helpful 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Thats a nice kit, nice that they sand blast all the components for ya. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 2, 2020 Author Share Posted May 2, 2020 So way back in Feb 2019 on the shuttle foamer group/forum/facebook page I saw a advert for a limited run/pre order of lsd to suit the awd gearbags. I chucked a 50% deposit and waited, and waited. Sent a few emails and had no response. A few weeks ago the guy I ordered with said there was another party also doing a diff and due to some bs they got in first. Plz wait and we'll see if we can get production re run. Today I got a email saying yes we can but it's a 90 day production time due to the plague and steel shortages. So it'll be another 4-5 months before I can give the gearbox to the gearbox guy. I was a bit annoyed with the time frame as I was hoping to get the new engine in and running by then. Then I remembered how long it takes me to do anything on my projects so it'll be fine 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 The courier left a bag at the door yesterday and I only found it this morning. Might play with the head tomorrow 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Popped out to the lockup to swap the ecus over. I had a chat with my tuner about the pwm boost control options/add on in the stock ecu. There is two case sizes. And the tldr is it works best in the large case ecus. My tuner will pick up the ecu and fit the pwm boost control bits and the vtec bits too. One more piece of the puzzle is falling into place 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 I like working on hondas. 10mm and 12mm is all you need to pull the head off. Wheeled it out of the corner Rocker gear off Farken stoked there is no rust in the bores after this motor sitting for a few years New vs old New springs and retainers fitted. Cam all lubed up I had a durp moment and wondered why the cam wouldn't turn when I nipped up the rocker gear. It's still a interference motor dickhead.... Loosened it off, put pistons at tdc and cam where it should be and things went better I need to torque everything up but I'll do that tomorrow. Here's a article with a nearly identical setup to mine. Just about a 10% increase over stock. That power level will be close to the limit of my churbo but I'd prefer response over peak power 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Well. Fuck So I was merrily torquing the head studs down. Doing final torque. Click, that wasn't the torque wrench doing a click. When I stripped the block down the stock head bolt had snapped so I asked the engine builders to remove the broken one and fix the thread if needed. I'll have to double check the invoice but I think it was helicoiled. Whatever was done failed. 1 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 So I dug out the receipt from GER and they did helicoil that hole. I dropped the block off to @piazzanoob work and they had a look at it. Turns out the helicoil/hole was drilled on the piss and was crooked. With a bit of thinking I did recall not being able to slide the head over that particular stud years ago when I initially assembled it. So its been fucked since day one really. Its been 4+ years since I've paid the bill so I cant really go back and hit them up. The current plan is to re drill the hole and tap it out to a imperial thread and hope it works. I'll need to drill the head hole bigger to suit the new stud as well. It better bloody work as if it pulls out again I've got a *very* expensive piece of scrap metal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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