W1NG3D Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46122-w1ng3ds-1965-morris-mini-mk1/ Thought I'd better start one of these discussion topics to accompany the project thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 You were born in 2013? My you're advanced for your age. Are you sure you don't belong in the mysterious malarky thread? Silly aside, the car looks lovely mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Looks bloody brand new! well done, don't go sticking spoilers on it like all these other zipperheads! My Dad had a couple back in the day(new!) the second one was among the first in NZ with windup windows, flash. Was green with a white roof also. He drove it from Invercargill to Hamilton in two days when he move up north. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 It looks to be in really great condition body wise. I'm looking forward to hearing how your engine upgrade pans out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W1NG3D Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 It looks to be in really great condition body wise. I'm looking forward to hearing how your engine upgrade pans out. It's nearly in! Annoyingly I've hit a snag though, as per my latest reply in the main project thread, and it's a pain because it's just one little thing which is stopping me from having the engine in right now. So close, yet so far away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 You probably need the driveshafts from the Clubman. Are you trying to put the old style rubber couplers into the CV style gearbox? I don't think you can do that. Also the gear lever will probably come out in a different place between the Clubman and Mk1. From memory the clubman is a rod change that has the gearlever go straight down through the floor just in front of the handbrake and the Mk1 is a dogleg stick that goes through a hole near the the bottom of the firewall/floor joint. There will be some info online about fitting a rod or remote change mini box into a Mk1 - hunt that down and you should be on a winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Mini-philes call them MagicWand - I call them dogleg. What type do you have? These are the 3 types of gearbox. http://www.minispares.com/catalogues/classic/Classic~Mechanical~Parts~Manual/Transmission~~Gearshift/Gearbox~Casings~and~Part~Numbers.aspx?1~4~33 I think there are 3 or 4 different type of output shafts also. Rubber crosses, plastic crosses and CV joint. All have differing ways of fitting the diff. FYI... This is where the magic wand type comes out of the floor This is where the other two come out of the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 If all that is good and not a problem then I trust you have undone the ball joints on the swivel hubs so you can swing the hubs back and maneouveur the joint into place? This nut/part here at the bottom of the picture in the middle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W1NG3D Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 The Mk1 was originally a "magic wand" gear change with the crucifix type drive shafts, and the clubman was originally a "remote change" gearbox which also has the same crucifix type drive shafts. My mk1 already has a hole cut out to accept the remote change lever appearing in a different place, and the driveshaft fittings appear to be identical, so compatability between the two isn't an issue. Since the clubman was an early 1973, it still retained early features like the driveshafts and remote change rather than the rod change, and I was careful to source a car with these features in order to make the engine swap into the Mk1 much easier I'll have to try undoing the ball joints to make the hubs more maneuverable - that wasn't something which immediately sprang to mind, since I was able to disconnect the old gearbox outputs and remove the 850 engine without undoing the balljoints at all. Thanks for your help and advice, I'll let you all know how I get on tomorrow after another attempt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Ah yes all sounds like you have it under control - but yup you will need to have the balljoints out of the bottom arms (and perhaps the top too) Otherwise you need someone with great dexterity lying under the car and lining up the rubber crosses while you slide the motor in from the top and to be honest that is the fucking hard way to do it when there is so much else needing to slip in place at the same time. Getting the balljoints off is not too bad but before you do it I'll ask a dumb question. Do you know how to take the balljoints out? They are easy enough but I have seen many a person ruin the thread of a balljoint smashing them with a hammer relentlessly and rendering the joint useless. If you know how to get them out then ignore my ramblings and get it done man. Good job and your Mk1 looks smashing. Awesome score man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W1NG3D Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 My original method was the "lay underneath the car and line things up" one, and unfortunately I was the person underneath - very tiring and troublesome indeed! I just about managed to get the rubber cross aligned on the drivers side, but the passenger side is proving impossible. So today I'm walking over to Supercheap on my lunch break to buy a ball joint seperator, I've done it a couple of times on my mate's mini so I feel confident I can do it without ruining the threads. Then hopefully the job should be much easier tonight, and I can get the engine in! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I undo the bottom ball joint for ease, I also have one of these I think it was a service part. Makes refitting the engines easy, good tilt going in then just straightens up. Don't have as much dramas with the crosses now. I always forget to connect speedo cable going in so don't forget that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W1NG3D Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 That looks like a very handy tool! I have a load leveler which came as a package deal with the engine hoist, but it got in the way and wasn't too helpful when lifting out the mini engine, probably because of how it's mounted transversely. The good news is I now have the engine in place, the ball joints came off with great ease since they are relatively new (got replaced when my disk brakes were done), and it should be drivable tomorrow! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W1NG3D Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Engine is in, and the car is bloody awesome to drive - I posted some pictures in the main project thread! Now I just need to align the bonnet a bit better (it rattles horribly at idle), and tomorrow I'm getting a nice new RC40 exhaust system with extractors, which should see (roughly) a 20% power increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.