artyone Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Found this and have the dollaro's ready. Maybe jumpin' the gun but I figure it's safe to assume it's a done thing. Maybe that's why the picture qualities bad... I'm a little shaky with excitement! I had an ol' SL350 back in the day which I dropped road wheels onto and lowered here and there but as I learnt from the chappy sellin' this that the SL crank was the two 0 degrees apart but these are 180 degrees apart. Less torquey and more spinny. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berjjj Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Shit yeah, twins are where it's at! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 So the one on the left is starting to do it for me as, on the right we have the original frame, which while quite nifty with the pressed steel backbone they do tend to go a wee bit wonky in harder cornering as the ability to stay rigid just isn't there. One of my absolute favourite cars is the Maserati Birdcage and I've always loved the idea of doing a space frame, with a multiplicity of small gauge tubes holding it all together. Initially I'd thought of cutting off the back of the frame as well as lengthening it an inch or two but that kinda chopping just wouldn't work with this style of Honda backbone... so then it's start from scratch. The one on the left is from this page. http://curtisracingframes.com/CB-twin-Drixton-frame.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Haha, the English version of the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo featured one... with knobbly's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 Would have easily got the whole thing in but I managed to drive off and leave the wheels resting on a moped, so thrilled to have gotten it in. Then chucked it back together... to be pushed and it's properly home. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Awesome mate! I've got a 74 us import . Great bikes ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Coolbeans. I have one too, and some spares if you need anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Not so far Llama, haven't even looked through the boxes or even much over the bike. So this is how I'm building a seat... a steel one and a fibreglass on to take mold off. First you gotta define your horizontal and vertical planes and kinda be aware of what you wanna keep clear of. Then you can cut one side off and trace it across to the other. Next you fill in the sides and if you're a beginner make the horizontal, the seat base, as rigid as possible with lots of little tabs because theres quite a bit of handling going on. Then you check it looks okay from one or two different angles. Then you take apart what you've done and lay out the side and the top. Then trace around it all and cut it out. When sticking it back together, in the new pieces, it pays to tape up the whole seam as this makes it easier to put together and it also helps to put some bend into what ever will be bent. Now it goes back on the bike to see if it looks good and how it can be tweaked further. Check out the angles, image it with about an inch and half of foam then sort out the centre lines are right. Tomorrow I'm going to glass it while it's on the bike as there's some places I can pull the cardboard in by taping to the bike but I'll get some photos then too. If you're going to make it in steel and weld it up it pays to just cut out the actual seat base then bend it to shape and then see whether the sides still fit and they may not dependant on what bends end up occuring in which case you just get some more cardboard and do some more sides in that before cutting out steel. Given you'll be welding up 1.6 mm which is easy to burn through...it pays to get the buttes as close as possible and just melt them together without undue adding of rod. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Got all set up, taped into shape and then my 5 litres of polyester resin has go to jelly... so whip down to the local, get some more new stuff and a little tissue and away we go... I hope 200/1 isn't to cold for the weather... soon find out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Once the fibreglass is underway it's time to use steel so the only bit of sheet I have lying about is in use on one of my experimental musical instruments... but I don't really do that anymore, or actually find more enjoyment making new ones, so it got cut up. Once I've welded it up I'll figuring out where I can do some hammering to make it interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Why doing glass AND steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 for the base i would imagine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 The glass is so I can make a plug and then upholster a few and sell them as fitting a regular CB350 with minimal modification... as in cut off a few bits but no welding required, and to show of possibilities with leather. And the steel one... to go nuts on and show off skills in the hope I'll get a few commissions maybe and eventually sell off the frame with swingarm to someone with CB350 bits themselves. Which is all a bit silly I know... given most of the people into this stuff do for themselves, but oh well, I got the time and it's kinda practise anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGal Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Looking good. Are you going to make and seats like this? http://fatlace.com/lacedup/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/13_boso.jpg 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 MUCH BIGGER THAN THAT!!! Mine will be called powerline clippers... and the lights on the motorway would go off as low bridges were approached. But seriously... yes, stuff like that to have a grand palate to show off my brothers skills with leather and get noticed... which is what it's all about isn't it? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Time to get it going and who I bought it off said there was a kick starter problem... and there is! The original tang that is the end stop for the shaft has broken off and the person who fixed it has used other castings within the case to acheive the same thing, which is kinda clever but they did quite cut away enough of the bit that broke off and so the tang that holds the shaft end of the spring gets hooked up on the old end stop, which would be easy enough to chisel out a little more metal but methinks that the end stops being used 'Now here' just won't last the distance... whatever distance that may be. So me I'll try and get a serviceable starter motor and take off the kick starter lever then later take it all apart and get some metal welded into the lower case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Actually I think I can drill a hole and tap it, 5mm, and then screw in an allen head and that'll be the new stop... then no flicking off the starter so it stomps back into the stop. Don't even have to split the cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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