My name is Russell Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Recycling old thread Just picked up a friends corolla on trailer to help fix his car and the darn Pajero has started being a menace! Started blowing quite a bit of white smoke Is now stalling at idle after a min of idling. when i pump the fuel filter the pump doesn't go firm One of the injectors looks to has a bit of fluid around it as if it could be leaking. What could it be oldschool. Rings? Fuel leak? - solution? No point plonking in new glow plugs is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 just line up timing marks and fit belt. You only need to wedge them if you are removing/replacing the sprockets to replace the oil seals behind them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Wicked thanks man, thats what i was starting to think was the case. Will fit belts for the 3rd time tonight (Water pump, then cam seal leak now crank seal). then should be leak free. Fuel you probably know, are there any common mods to get these pajeros a bit taller geared in 5th? Bigger wheels, diffs? Shes a bit gutless so bigger wheels probably wouldnt be a good idea and they are already 31's.She screems around the 100-110 mark and develop's a funny little vibration in the peddle. which is why i was trying to make 100% sure i had fitted the silent shaft correctly. Wanting to do 2000 reliable kms over christmas break so trying to get everything mint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Lining up marks and fitting belt works if the shaft is already in the correct place it pays to check as lining up the marks doesn't mean that it is correct and someone might have got it wrong in the past. If it was incorrectly timed its easy to get it right without removing the bolt at the back of the block. Just turn the sprocket a 1/4 turn or less each way and it tries to go back to the mark itself, if it won't do a full turn and try again and again until it does it. Replace the seals behind the b/s spockets also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 What sort of RPM is it doing? My 4D56T triton ute is on about 2100 rpm at 100kph.. it has a 3.9 diff and 295 50 20 rubber which is around 31.5 inches i believe.. 5 speed manual.. it's no powerhouse but that's kind of to be expected with 2 tonne of ute, being dragged along by 2.5 litres of deizzzzel power. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 is your paj an 88 or 89 ? if so do they factory have diff lock/centre diff lock? as me an a mate are making a buggy from a five door one less the oil burner (its ld28t) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Lining up marks and fitting belt works if the shaft is already in the correct place it pays to check as lining up the marks doesn't mean that it is correct and someone might have got it wrong in the past. If it was incorrectly timed its easy to get it right without removing the bolt at the back of the block. Just turn the sprocket a 1/4 turn or less each way and it tries to go back to the mark itself, if it won't do a full turn and try again and again until it does it. Replace the seals behind the b/s spockets also. Cool thanks mate,so it should try and flick over the balancing point at the mark? What sort of RPM is it doing? My 4D56T triton ute is on about 2100 rpm at 100kph.. it has a 3.9 diff and 295 50 20 rubber which is around 31.5 inches i believe.. 5 speed manual.. it's no powerhouse but that's kind of to be expected with 2 tonne of ute, being dragged along by 2.5 litres of deizzzzel power. 100kms-3200rpm, 5 speed manual. Little high considering the redline isn't much further, and i would have thought a diesel would have the torque to pull at lower rpm. The guy said it never ran as well after getting newpump overhauled/fitted. is your paj an 88 or 89 ? if so do they factory have diff lock/centre diff lock? as me an a mate are making a buggy from a five door one less the oil burner (its ld28t) This one is a 1991 Gen 2 LWB body, with center diff lock. However my 1991 SWB v6 3.0l pajero is Gen 1 body without centre diff lock i believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Flip n Flip! Shes still leaking! Somewhere around the turbo I'm starting to suspect. Anyone know of anywhere else on drivers side motor could be/common leaks occor? Feed and return turbo line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 New pump, all front seals done, and belts. running well but still haven't tracked leak down, must have not been the crank seal dow. have waterblasted underside of motor again to try work out were its coming from but struggling to see so far Seal No leak visible from top Then boom underside! (before waterblasting) All on turbo / drivers side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 The pipes of back of alternator (vacuum?) shouldn't be able to leak should they? Guess pull the inlet/zorst side off next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Hmm perhaps could be the back of alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 degrease the shit out of it then get the engine running again and check for fresh leaks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Usually either oil pressure switch, banjo on back of alternator or turbo oil feed in that area, worse case is the motor is breathing heavily blowing oil into intake and dripping out the air inlet at the turbo. Your Pajero sounds like it has a 5.2 diff ratio, assume NZ new? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Cheers guys still trying to case this leak! Usually either oil pressure switch, banjo on back of alternator or turbo oil feed in that area, worse case is the motor is breathing heavily blowing oil into intake and dripping out the air inlet at the turbo. Your Pajero sounds like it has a 5.2 diff ratio, assume NZ new? Oil pressure switch looks ok, Want to replace the alternator oil feed line, not 100% sure its from there but want to eliminate it as a possibility Do you know were i can get them from Ranter? BNT wasn't to sure. Motor is breathing a bit but ran it to catch tank and wasn't enough to create this much of a leak (ran little better with catch tank too so future mod). Yup NZL new, think you are correct must be 5.2 diff ratio, will be good for towing i guess. Actually really happy with how it drove to manfield and back today. Just don't like the leaking. After doing below cleaning but still no luck. Will remove cam bet and silent shaft again tomorrow night to check if new crank seal is sealing as new seal might be sitting on cranks worn groove. before after cleaning Hayholes bike Running out of seals/gaskets to replace . . . . can the sump gasket be changed with motor still in car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Could the actual alternator pump leak? other than just the banjo'd line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 surely that much oil would be easy to see coming out, mount a go pro cam under there an go drive up an down a hill or two 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Not sure where I'd buy the oil line from, think I threw one out lately after having it sit around for years. You can replace sump gasket in car, from memory just undo diff mount bolts for extra clearance. I used to fit the crank pulley without the covers and run them to find leaks in the front of the engine, used to also use sealant on the outside of the crankseal to stop it spinning. Then if it looks ok hook up alternator belt and see if vaccuum pump is leaking. Also the front cover can leak from where it bolts to the block, makes it look like sump gasket but your leak looks higher than that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 what about spinning the alt up with a rattle gun or drill, my bet is its a cracked steel line where its pressed into the pump housing. also run with dipstick and oil cap off to see if its pressurising the sump 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Wicked thanks Ranter, some really helpfull advice! Was just starting to wonder if i should run the motor with both the front belt covers removed. Yup used sealant on the outside of seal also. Is this the front cover you speak off? I agree think its higher up than sump. Really good advice cheers, keep it coming if you think of anything else Can the alternator pump itself leak. Replaced banjo copper washers and hoose looked in good nic. what about spinning the alt up with a rattle gun or drill, my bet is its a cracked steel line where its pressed into the pump housing. Neat thanks Jason thats a good idea, will give that a go tonight pending outside workshop weather. So that would be replace alternator job? also run with dipstick and oil cap off to see if its pressurising the sump Sweet is this just with the motor running or winding alternator with rattle gun? how do you tell its pressurising?, blow by coming out the dip stick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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