kkatl Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 hi peeps so i have just bought a worked 1300 crossflow for my esky, as seen here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =507751840 it hasnt even been started yet, so i need help, i dont know how long or how to run this type of engine in, at all, being a lumpy cam, upon first start i am supposed to take it up to 2000rpm for a min of 20 mins. but thats all i know. and what sort of performance would i be looking at, out of this motor? i have a 1600 in my esky at the moment and that hauls ass for a standard, so i sure hope this 1300 will be a screamer. any help is great thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anton f Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 it really depends what kind of lumpy cam it is doent really have any specs on the listing... id say all off those mods you may be pulling the same as the 1600 or just slightly more to be honest.. the 1300 had around 60hp and the 1600 has about 80hp maybe cant quite remember off the top of my head. at the end off the day the horse power is going to come down to the cam and how big the jets and airflow is. i think you would be better off just keeping the 1.6 in it or pulling it out and rebuilding it with sidedrafts, mild street cam and extractors, and a medium head port etc and youll be entering into the 100hp range if tuned out right. hope that helps abit anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 This! i think you would be better off just keeping the 1.6 in it or pulling it out and rebuilding it with sidedrafts, mild street cam and extractors, and a medium head port etc and youll be entering into the 100hp range if tuned out right Wasting your time with the 1300 to be honest. You would have been better to use that money to work the 1600.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 hey guys sorry for the late reply. so i could just use the same head, and 1300 hc pistons,cam and bearings? and the lightened flywheel in the 1600? then id have a worked 1600, im pretty sure the 1600 has been rebuilt at some stage so the block should be good. what do you guys think? i dont have any money to work the 1600 but maybe i could build one outa the two of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Yes if the 1600 hasn't already been bored larger than the 1300s pistons. I would probably give the 1300 a go, may not have as much power as a 1600 but they do love to rev! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Yeah thated be semi worked! Add in a port and polish and away you go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 yeah its got a head built to formula ford spec. woteva that means? but yeah its been ported and shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Formula ford was the top notch crossflows. If its a genuine formula ford head itll be worth loads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 oh ok well thats something i didnt know. nah its just built to that spec, its not a genuine formula ford head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Aw sweet should bea screamer then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I have a heavy ported head 234 cam bike carbs 2 1/4"" exhaust big leads lighten fly wheel ele fan ele ingition up graded coil triple prong spark plugs. I still have a few things to do to the bottom end but I'm very happy with the performace so far and not to much cost prob spent around $1500 so far. I rate the power I get from a little 1600 cross flow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 oh ok thats pretty sweet. how did you only spend $1500, do you have mates in the machining industry? and dont suppose you know how to run one of these motors in? no one seemed to answer my original question lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 There is load of differnt opinions on how to run an engine in. Ask the guy that built it he should give you a fair idea on what way is best to run it in. But a that 1300 should go pretty well I would think The head I got the machine work done for $ 480 and more porting done from a mate which helped cam $120 exhaust cost $400, $60 to lighten the fly wheel , leads cost me $70 though work, coil was a gt40 i had lying around, fan cost $110 with the themo switch, spark plugs from trade me $40 all up, ele ingition came from a donor car, bike carbs from ebay $240 landed and with a alot of help from mates and doing most of the work myself. And I have spent over a year getting here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 oh nice good work man. yeah i do all the work myself too. but i was speaking to the guy i bought the motor off and he reckons he piled about $4000 on this motor through hawera engineering. and he got a mate to do half of it. its in real good nick tho. cant wait for its first run, im a bit nervous about this whole running in business, thrs soo many different views on the idea, it kinda scares me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 yeah that can be easily done to pour that amount of money into it. I was pretty tempted myself to buy it, just for the new parts in it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 I would have spent well over that on my motor I'm building up, you can see a lot of whats been done in my old build thread here: //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=10637 With more updates to follow in new one here: //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=29206 On my cam spec sheet it says this: - Do not allow engine to run under 2000rpm for the first hour. - When heavy valve springs are fitted we recommend installing soft springs for the break in period. - DO NOT IDLE. Slow Idle speeds or continued starter cranking will result in sever Lobe and Follower wear. Also not looking forward to running in my engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 oh cool man that looks good. hey thanks for that info aswell. much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escort 1600 Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Before you start it whip the dizzy out and use an allen key in a grunty drill to get some oil pressure up then put the dizzy back in, set the base timing then fire it up. Your correct with a fresh cam to keep the revs above 3000 rpm for about half hour. What I usually do is run it at 3k for about 15min till everything is warmed up and have some one else keep an eye on things from the outside to make sure its not spewing out water or oil then head out to the motorway (best to do it in the late evening when the traffic is light) keeping the revs up on the way at the traffic lights ect as it seems a bit harsh to just have an engine sitting there in the garage at 3k for half hour. Once its had a run up the motorway and back for 45 min or so it should be safe to let it idle. You can then set your idle mixture and check the timing and from then on just drive it normally for a few hundred km's or so, change the oil and filter and your good to go. If it dosnt want to start dont keep grinding it over as this is what really wrecks a new cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkatl Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 hey mate thanks for the reply, i dont understand what you mean by an allen key? where am i supposed to put it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeastyBlue Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 in the oil pump drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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