smokin' joe Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 change the firing order to Windsor specs ?? mate had a 289 and set it to Cleveland firing order, run like a dog. changed it to windsor and it started running much better (wasn't just the firing order in this instance, but it did help) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 That's because a 289 is a Windsor, this is a 302 Cleveland and will have a Cleveland firing order .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Exactly, you can't just change the firing order without changing the cam and sometimes also the crank depending on the engine/what you are changing it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin' joe Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Exactly, you can't just change the firing order without changing the cam and sometimes also the crank depending on the engine/what you are changing it to. ok, Joe might of fucked up there. the cam had been changed which changed the firing order to the opposite of what we deduced it was. definately 289, though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otazup Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 Hi guys thanks for the replies I can see everyones point of view. For now I'm gona try the transfer slot thing that clevomafia is talking about as I didn't check that. I know my pump isn't bottoming out. It feels like its a prolem like transistioning from idle to wot. Ill check that and report back, another reason to buy carbs brand new, still its fun playing with them haha. Cheers jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 while its off check your power valve, sounds like it should be using a 10.5in can cause an off idle stumble, sooty plugs etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otazup Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 Thanks man will do, I thought a 6.5" valve would be plenty enough for a standard cammed engine. Holley says anything over 13hg to use a 6.5", ill go to the speed shop today and see if they have them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 It would normally but your vacuum is really high, if it drives ok and there's no hesitation around 2k rpm it may be best to leave it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otazup Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 hey guys the plot thickens, was doing more tuning yesterday and now a tick has developed from no.8 cyl, seems to be lifter related. pulled out plug and is abit wet with fuel. not soaked but not sooty either., im picking this is the cause of my miss the whole time. and nows its just got worse, i am gonna take covers off tomorrow and inspect but my question now is how do i test that the lifters are 100% or not. i will pull pushrods and clean throughly too cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 have a look at the valvesprings, make sure one hasnt broken. im sure i have a distant memory of a 302 clevo i worked on years ago that had some weird problems, and we replaced valvesprings to fix them....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 how many k's have they done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otazup Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 cheers man, engine is virgin done about 67,000ks from 1971, i pulled heads off today, heaps of carbon build up, strange for such a low ks motor i thought, hasnt been taken for a decent run in 3 years or so. bores are good. my question for now is, should the lifters be springy when i push in the middle of them?, if so then i think thats the problem. only 1 of the 16 do haha!! and when i remove them they are pretty concave underneath and also the cam has lots of pitting on, im probably in for a rebuild but im still keen to know about the lifters if anyone knows?? oh and the springs look to be sweet, the valves all go in and out and the pushrods look straight and clean inside. thanks heaps jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 generally if a lifter doesn't hold pressure its bung.. should get a nice lumpy cam.. 224/234@50" hydro is up the top for a standard valve train.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 if the lifters are visibly concave on the base then they are fucked. what is supposed to happen, is the lifter is flat on the bottom, the cam lobe is ground with a slight angle on it, as the lobe pushes the lifter, the lifter spins in its bore. once stuff wears, the lifter wont spin any more and everything wears faster. had a 302w apart for a noisy lifter a while ago, it had worn thru the bottom of the lifter. all this is why its very important to run in a cam correctly on older v8s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otazup Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 cool cheers guys, should i be able to push the spring in the middle of them or should they be hard,? im gonna replace them anyway, but just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 oil pressure is what takes up the slack in a hydraulic lifter, so if you have removed them it is possible to push the plunger in by hand. thats why you will quite often hear a rattly lifter when you start a hydraulic cam engine when its been sitting a while, because a valve has been open/lifter on the cam lobe, the lifter bleeds down as the valvespring pushes against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 oil pressure is what takes up the slack in a hydraulic lifter, so if you have removed them it is possible to push the plunger in by hand. thats why you will quite often hear a rattly lifter when you start a hydraulic cam engine when its been sitting a while, because a valve has been open/lifter on the cam lobe, the lifter bleeds down as the valvespring pushes against it. Also if you hear a noisy lifter even when the engine is warm its because the lifter is bleeding off pressure and therefore increases valve lash producing a ticking noise.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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