karlb Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 the alternator in my lancer packed a sad and stoped charging so i replaced the regulator and recifier. put it all back together and still not charging i had found a broken fuse case behind the r/h headlight fixed that and still nothing. there is a wire by the battery with a spade terminal on it but cant see where that goes and it already has 12v running through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 alternator light still come on? how many wires to the alternator? brushes are the most common thing to wear out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 no light on the dash cant see in the dash weather it has one. 2 wires into the alt plus 12v yep replaced the reg and rect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 brushes are not reg or recitfier brushes look like those^ they can wear out or get sticky., causing them to not make contact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 hey seedy al. the reg came with the brushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 alternator won't work without the warning light. find the small wire that goes to the alt, earth it out with a testlight - with ign on. warning light has 12v from key through the bulb and earths through the alternator field windings. no light working, the alternator wont fire up. or put a bulb between the batt + and the warning light terminal on the alt to see if that works. worth a shot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 alternator won't work without the warning light.find the small wire that goes to the alt, earth it out with a testlight - with ign on. warning light has 12v from key through the bulb and earths through the alternator field windings. no light working, the alternator wont fire up. or put a bulb between the batt + and the warning light terminal on the alt to see if that works. worth a shot... yea i was just thinking that.well when i get home im going pull the dash out check the bulb and go from there. if it doesnt work im thinking the stators gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 my alternator works fine without the bulb, unless some alternators use the bulb circuit as the exciter wire somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 my alternator works fine without the bulb, unless some alternators use the bulb circuit as the exciter wire somehow? thats the general way i thought they worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 oh haha ignore me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 ah yeah, there are two(or more) types of alternators, I think its the older ones use the light wire as the exciter, but the newer ones have a separate line that goes to a place where the voltage can be measured where its needed rather than having to go to the dash. Best idea would be to check which one you have and go from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 i had ran a bulb to the warning light bulb just stayed lite even when reving. checked the voltage on the battery 6.79v then checked the voltage out of the alternator 6.79v. im guessing either i have a dud rectifier or a faulty stator. how do you go about testing these? iv gone through my auto elec books but doesnt say to much about them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 check the other wire has power, might be the sensing wire. check field windings on rotor first, just put power across the slip rings. should draw bugger all power and give a wee flash when disconnected. (bit like an ignition coils primary windings) unsolder the rectifier, get a reasonable size amp meter and check current draw across the different stator windings with a 12v battery. don't leave hooked up too long, or you will burn out your stator. current draw will be about what the alternator is rated at. ie 30 amps or whatever. this checks it under load, a multimeter can give false readings sometimes. the rectifier is like a series of diodes (one way electric valves) check them when unsoldered from the stator with a 12v battery and a headlight bulb. should have power one way, not the other. failing that throw it as far as you can, swear at it, buy another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Do you just have the one small wire coming from the alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 check the other wire has power, might be the sensing wire.check field windings on rotor first, just put power across the slip rings. should draw bugger all power and give a wee flash when disconnected. (bit like an ignition coils primary windings) unsolder the rectifier, get a reasonable size amp meter and check current draw across the different stator windings with a 12v battery. don't leave hooked up too long, or you will burn out your stator. current draw will be about what the alternator is rated at. ie 30 amps or whatever. this checks it under load, a multimeter can give false readings sometimes. the rectifier is like a series of diodes (one way electric valves) check them when unsoldered from the stator with a 12v battery and a headlight bulb. should have power one way, not the other. failing that throw it as far as you can, swear at it, buy another one. lol i like the sound of the last bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 Do you just have the one small wire coming from the alternator? Iv got 2 wires going into the reg L and R. the R has 12v the L must be a sense wire going to somewhere??theres no warning light on the dash as i pulled it out and checked all the bulbs. and found there was no warning light. also earthed out the L wire to check if the was a light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 do you have a voltmeter or amp gauge in the dash then?? either of those will incorporate a light im skeptical as you need a current to excite the alt before it will start charging on its own. but without seeing it in flesh im f**king shite at diagnosing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlb Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 yea its got a volt guage in it but no light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Follow the excite wire and where it goes to, if the alt isn't getting any excite signal then it won't charge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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