Beaver Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 hey all the avenger gets the runs quite often after ive turned the key off. is only once its warmed up though. ive checked the timing and its all good (is a hair retarded, it starts to pink if I advance it), points are set correctly, and it has the correct spark plugs in. from what ive gathered run on can be from the engine running too hot (either wrong plugs or too advanced) and it burns off carbon deposits left in the engine. i also rad somewher that a lean fuel mixture can cause run on. mine seems fine (going by lifting the piston and seeing what the engine does) so if the cars not advanced and the plugs are correct, what else could I be looking at to fix this? or is it just a sign of a heap of shit built up in the engine/old engine cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Yeah, carbon build-up or timing is the usual suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 can carbon build up be fixed (without pulling it to bits lol)? or is it just a matter-of-fact that the engine is full of shit and it will burn etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 There are methods of "decoking" the engine. I have a feeling Cam has a trick or two but for the life of me I can't recall them. Mebbe googs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Apparently misting water into the intake at revs cleans shit up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinite Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 could also be little bits of metal that are heating up inside the head from a skim causing it to ignite and run on, had this with my 323 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Basic answer, could be these things and some quick remedys - in order of likelihood.. - Idle is too high - turn it down to 750rpm - Timing is too far advanced - set it at 5-10deg at idle with vacuum advance disconnected - Excessive combustion chamber carbon - remove the vacuum advance hose and stick it into a 600ml bottle of water and give it a few revs (not heaps but enough to suck the water through the engine) - Vacuum leak around the carb - tighten all manifold, carb bolts (wear in the throttle spindle will require carb rebuild/replacement) - Lean mixture - richen the idle circuit by turning the mixture screw out (1/2 to 1 turn MAX!!) Alternatively wait till you get down here (which was when??) and I'll have a tutoo on it.. Have you replaced points and condensor? Most probably not related but would make a nicer ride if they were replaced.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 ^ Fucking bang. KK is your champion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 made an epic post but KK summarised the shit out of it while I was writing hah. also, always run 95 octane fuel at a minimum. 91 isn't worth it. I don't even run my paj on that shit. so keen for steamcleaning of internals of an engine to see what goes down eh. my usual methd is to set everything up as it should be as per factory and take it on a long, fairly rigorous run. my favourite on a scabby old car is to go from feilding to vinger hill and back fairly swiftly. You've done similar if you went up and around the coromandel, which i think i read in your project thread. it's a fair workout to get over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 can-o upper engine cleaner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Basic answer, could be these things and some quick remedys - in order of likelihood..- Idle is too high - turn it down to 750rpm - Timing is too far advanced - set it at 5-10deg at idle with vacuum advance disconnected - Excessive combustion chamber carbon - remove the vacuum advance hose and stick it into a 600ml bottle of water and give it a few revs (not heaps but enough to suck the water through the engine) - Vacuum leak around the carb - tighten all manifold, carb bolts (wear in the throttle spindle will require carb rebuild/replacement) - Lean mixture - richen the idle circuit by turning the mixture screw out (1/2 to 1 turn MAX!!) Alternatively wait till you get down here (which was when??) and I'll have a tutoo on it.. Have you replaced points and condensor? Most probably not related but would make a nicer ride if they were replaced.. KK, you are god. idle is nice and low already (dunno exactly but its low) timing is set as per book which is 30 degrees at 3000rpm (i guesssed when i was at 3000 rpm but its close enough anyway haha) carb seems nice and tight (have had it apart and cleaned etc) has new points, cap and rotor, not condenser though ill just wait till i come down KK and you can work your magic, which is this weekend it drives real nice so im sure itl make the trip down and to cam, yeh i set the timing and points and that while i was away (it ran like balls on the way over) and drove it back and it ran sweet, just runs on. also, i will run 95 from now on. will i need to adjust anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 shouldn't need to adjust anything. I reckon it'll help the cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 sweet cheers. my fuel gauge doesnt work so ill just keep topping it up with 95 untill the old shit is dilluted/gone burgers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Could set the timing again on a fresh tank of 95 to take full advantage of it, ie advance it a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 All good man - after reading these last few posts there are 4 things to add.. - Setting your timing at 30degrees at 3000rpm could be your problem. (unless you have an immaculate vacuum advance unit and the advance weights move as per factory..) The reason this is a problem is if either the mech or vac advance are not functioning 100% properly then you will be unnecessarily advancing the shit out of the dizzy to compensate for the lack of the vac/mech adv. and this will consequently give you a high base timing - which will cause run-on.. So I would suggest you set it (at idle with vacc adv disconnected) to 5-10 degrees - this is a good generic base timing.. - As a rule you should replace the condensor EVERY time you replace the points - it has no moving parts but as a general rule they shit themselves more often than points do.. - Tighten the inlet manifold to head nuts/bolts too - not just the carby to manifold ones.. - DEFINITELY run 95 or better ALWAYS - the timing settings you got out of your book would be assuming you are running 96 octane.. (old book based on the old fuel) EDIT - do not advance the timing as Brad suggests (sorry Brad - xoxo) you are likely already running too much timing/enough timing for 95 as it is now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 lol, yeah true. I was just thinking generally if changing from 91 to 95 on a car thats tuned for 91 you'd advance the timing, but you do point out some valid points there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 the vacum advance was disconnected when i set the timing kk (as per the book), but i shall set it again at idle following your tips. lubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 So you have 30 degrees @3000rpm with the vac adv off???? WHHHHHAAAAATTTTTT!!!!!! - means if the vac adv is working you will be getting mid to high 40's total advance on 91 octane... I'm 95% sure that this here is your problem.. FYI - full house race cars only run mid to high 30's of total advance on 100 octane.... I suspect the instructions in the book may be written a bit ambiguously.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 just checked the timing at idle, is about 7 degrees. quote from book "Stroboscopic settings at 3000rpm with vacuum unit disconnected -all 1250/1300 models: 29-31 deg btdc" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Well thats fairly plain fact and non ambiguous so I'm proven wrong but JEEZUS thats gunna be a LOT of total advance - however 7 degrees at idle is definitely sweet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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