question re honing and bearing caps

[barf]

hello

I'm having my first go at replacing rings and rod bearings and have a few embarrassingly elementary questions for you guys; what is the intended outcome of cylinder wall honing? surely the piston rings must smooth down any burrs made in this process? why not have a perfectly smooth bore?

when installing big end / con-rod bearings, do I lube the face that meets with the con rod and bearing cap or only the surface that moves?

[ProZac]

Complete non-expert answers here, buuuut;

Honing is to remove the hardened surface glaze from your bores, this leaves a softer surface that the rings can 'bed' into, ensuring you get a good seal. By 'bedding' in, i mean the rings and bore wearing into the vagaries of one another, hills meeting valleys, and valleys meeting hills, etc.

Definately don't lube the backside of your bearings, they must be installed super clean, and dry. I would recommend a good engine assembly lube applied liberally to the side that suns on the crank however .

[RUNAMUCK]

The idea of honing is to povide both a rough surface on the bore wall which can wear the rings into the same shape as the bore. (And get a nice seal) And to provide a place for oil to sit so that it can provide lubrication for the rings against the bore wall.

[FuzzayD]

Yeah don't lube the outside of the bearings or they'll spin round and cut shit up or wiggle out and send rods through you're block.

[bubblegoose]

Yeah don't lube the outside of the bearings or they'll spin round and cut shit up or wiggle out and send rods through you're block.

thats why they have tabs on them

also honing as above

but

correct grind angle and pattern is a must

too steep and you will burn a whole heap of oil

too shallow and the oil will be to insufficient and rings and bore will wear at a much higher rate

and if the pattern is uneven you will get too much ring rotation

should look like this

as for bearings, they need to be installed dry on the rod side as oil and or grease will tighten them up, minutely but still.

also COMPLETELY dirt/particle free as the same will occur

journal side goes well with some nice assy lube and ZERO dirt

remember the bearings are made of super soft metal its very easy to fuck them

[barf]

upon inspection of my bore, i can clearly see honing marks (engine is '96 4g93 turbo 270,000kms - and thrashed). full of coke from the leaking valve stem seals but that cleaned up easily.

but since i'm replacing rings, from what i gather, i must still re-hone to bed the rings in. anyone have a hone tool and dial gauge they could loan out to measure my bore? half-a-dozen-of-your-favourite?

how can i measure crank shaft main bearing end play?

what other clearances are most important?

[Abarth]

Engine reco shops will hone it for round $60 bucks.

[Hemi]

upon inspection of my bore, i can clearly see honing marks (engine is '96 4g93 turbo 270,000kms - and thrashed). full of coke from the leaking valve stem seals but that cleaned up easily.

but since i'm replacing rings, from what i gather, i must still re-hone to bed the rings in. anyone have a hone tool and dial gauge they could loan out to measure my bore? half-a-dozen-of-your-favourite?

how can i measure crank shaft main bearing end play?

what other clearances are most important?

not very often the thurst play will change , you need a dti dial gauge to check that.

piston ring gap .. done with feeler gauges pretty important , plastiguage the minas and big ends (get it from repco) , that def important as it wil show weather you need to go to an undersize bearing .

if its got hone marks it should be in pretty good condition , honing is piss easy but if your not confident then take it to someone to get it sone , where are you located?, maybe one of the boes might be able to help you out