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twosmoke

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^ I would have to concur with that man, remove spark plugs & turn over again so compression aint going to try to turn the rotor back to orignal position. Also to free it up a touch removed spark plugs & give a slight spray with crc or wd 40 or nice thin oil an turn over by hand

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If it has no zhorst manifold on it rotate it clockwise, and shine a torch in the zhorst ports. As the apex of the rotor passes the port, you should see the apex seal. when you can if you push it, it should spring back, and it should be complete ie not broken. Do this three times for both banks, and then you'll know for sure that the apex seals aren't blown. Does sound like it has sweet compression though. But it can have one blown seal, and still have compression on the other bank/the one "chamber" which still has seals.

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"Fresh rebuild" means nothing, especially if your housings or plates are chipped/scratched/worn. Runamuck is correct. However you still wont be able to tell if the side or corner seals are any good. Best way to check condition without stripping it down is to chuck in in a car & start it / compression test it.

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Took spark plugs out and sprayed some crc down the holes, no longer feels sticky at all, has all the standard turbo gear bolted up to it at the moment and is in a car, so will unbolt and try pushing the apex seals at some stage. I can get my hands on a compression tester, but will have to get the starter motor going yeah? I cant get an accurate compression reading by turning it over by hand?

also, you want to remove the shrader valve from the end in the comp tester if it has one. Or alternatively hold the release button down while you comp test it.

For each bank the needle should rise 3 times as each of the three sides of the rotor pass their compression cycle. If it only rises once, you have a blown apex seal. If only twice you have a blown side seal. Do this for both banks.

if you dont remove the valve before testing you'll only get the compression reading from the best chamber.

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