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Not Oldschool but you may be able to help


sgtjackass

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Hi guys

Ive just brought a rover tomcat for next to nothing. Its tidyish but ive noticed a big problem

Ive noticed that upon decelleration (sp?) and engine braking conditions smoke pours out of the exhaust. It doesnt smoke upon start up, boost, idle or any other time. The guy I brought it off mentioned that he thought it was the turbo, but that would be too easy. Smoke looks blueish

Have you guys ever had this occur, what could it be and how could i check for it? I guess its either turbo, valve stem seals, or pcv valve (hopefully)

Cheers for your time

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get ready to open your wallet.. you may have picked it up cheap or next to nothing but it's still going to cost a fortune to repair and maintain.

apon de-acceleration is when the engine and turbo are under vacuum - if it's copious amounts of blue smoke it does point towards the turbo being leaky with the oil seals - mine definitely does that, especially when the turbo gets a bit hot after a bit of a spirited drive. It's most likely the seal on the hot side of the turbo which lets oil in and burns in the exhaust housing and goes straight out the exhaust pipe as opposed to leaking on the inlet side and getting through the inlet etc.

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Cheers Fuel

yep ive just taken off the intercooler piping and its pretty dry and clean. Plugs are pretty clean leading me to beleive that the engine is not burning the oil internally.

Another question then... what turbo would you recomend replacing it with? its a t25 atm. would a t28 bold strait up?

Keep the suggestions coming, im hoping its the turbo

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I don't really have a clue when it comes to turbos other than Mitsubishi ones. I know with Mitsubishis even if two turbos are TD04s they can have entirely different flanges or even housings depending what it's used in. A T28 from a Nissan for example may not share the same flange to bolt it on.

I guess you could google some Rover forums and see what common turbo upgrades are for those beasts.

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Not sure how much history there is but there was a guy on the NZPC forums who seriously got into modifying his 220 pretty sure he used t28 and all the goodies, was used as a hillcimb car, perhaps a search on there may help in that regard.

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I know 3 ppl that have had these, and they have all flown to bits for no good reason. These motors are on the edge of destruction std, so I would be very careful about getting more power out of it. Also, have a mate trying to sell one (with a rebuilt engine) any takers? :lol:

lol, ive seen these cars with over 200,000 miles on the clock and still humming along nicley. like all cars if you rape it, it WILL cry

is it a blue one? if not i dont like you :lol:

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Cheers Guys

Yea I hope this one doesnt blow up. Wouldn't suprise me tho :(

Off for a hunt for a turbo...

Or... is it possible to replace the oil seals at home? or beta a job left to the pros? any idea of cost on something like this?

usually need to rebush/new bearings with seals, can be tricky but hey its a rover its all tricky

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The Rover K series engine is notorious for unreliability.. did they really think through-bolts which attach both head to the block *and* main bearing caps to block was a good idea? No? what about the plastic head locating dowels? If that wasn't bad enough the gearboxes are weak as weak sauce..

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey well this may help spent a year with my tomcat replace motor gearbox 7 cvs 2 turbos and other random this, Really good cars when they are going how ever they can go bad fast.

What you have on your car now is a t25 basicaly the same trim setup as the t25 fited to a ca18et with a slightly larger intake housing

I had fitted a t28 off an s14a onto mine had to change oil lines the ones you have now are an imperial thread they are metric on a t28. Had to modify intake piping . It all bolted up but its a mission to do.

In the end I was a running a dsr380 turbo on mine was a cheap option with being brand new around 600 at the time. Includes brand new gaskets.

To fit this you need to change piping around a little and spin the housings around and modify the actuator, Also you will need water and oil adapters

You may find your cam angle sensor is creating part of your problem as well as these motors run fine with out them under acceleration but have issues deaccelerating without them

Feel free to drop a pm if you have any more questions

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could be failing piston ring. letting oil get pulled by vacuum into the chamber after combustion.

if not that then most probably turbo but i would check that first

or on top of that your valves guides might not be sealing because of clearance or the seals themselves failing

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