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lumpy cam...worth doing on a standard engine?


Beaver

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When changing cams, you're supposed to get the cam followers refaced.

For springs, all you need to do is to put washers under them to increase seat pressure, just make sure they don't bind.

It'll go heaps better.

Steve

This will snap his valves Steve, they aren't the strongest material as far as british cars are concerned.

Also if the spring tension is unknown or destoy the cam and lifters also.

Its a good practice to do this if you can get the spring tension checked with the washers all being the same size and as Steve said not coil binding.

The point is with the increase in valve spring pressure, it seats the valve tighter (increases seat pressure as Steve says correctly) and therefore holds the valve shut tighter at compression and shuts them faster during the overlap increasing the engines efficiency.

Corey

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What will snap the valves?

You're sounding like V V V now........... all theory , no practical.

It's been done.....many times.... it works.

Steve

vvega had both theory and practical to back it up DICK just as do I.

It has been done but to do it to this engine will snap the valves as the head of the valve will snap off with the extra shutting force.

It sounds like you need to know more about particular things instead of missleading people and costing them money and time by not giving them all the information.

Corey

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piston plus valve head floating in bore^^^ sucks

tell me how do you calculate the tension of a spring placed under

preload by adding a washer?

if hunta was going to uprate his head getting a new valve set,

a port and polish, the head decked and putting in springs with the correct tension for

the cam being used coupled with a set of sidies and extractors,

gains would definitely be made

but as is with all engine components you should never deal in unknown quantities if you want your engine to last.

check check check and get someone else to check again I have had drummed into me for a long time.

f^d i suggest you not get personal or take offence but if you take anything as word of law from the e-net you are a muppet for not investigating the subject properly.

i miss vvega and its a real pain in the arse not having him on the forum because of a stupid argument

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I put a under cut standard cam in a hunter that was stock standard and got about 2 extra hourse power

Put a comp cam in and lost power all across the rev range in the standard motor.

As the guy's say a good cam that will do something worth wile, will have a desent intake-exhorst overlap to make max power. and having a standard cast exhorst manifold will restrict the flow, undoing all that good cam craft and even take power away.

I've even noted the hunter has problems with this standard without making the overlap greater. You can note blow back threw the carb at low revs from the exhorst being so restricting, this is normaly fixed with a set of good exstractors. Hillman did this so in later years more power could be exstracted from the motor in later models to keep up with other manufactures power increases in new models.

If your looking for a choppy idle the cam probley wont do on it's own. The lucas dizzy is very good at buffering hunting out and keeps it firing nicely even when you dont wont it to. As well as doing a cam you would need to lighten the flywheel and make the exhorst more free flowing to make it choppy, if that is'nt lumpy anoth then lightening the centrafugal advance spring in the dizzy will also help.

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fitting a cam into a hunter has some little fun bit's. Biggest thing to note is the hillman cam timing marks are at TDCC on the fire of cylender #4 NOT #1. you don't wont to get the timeing 180deg out. and note if your useing any Hayes manual non (green cover) for the hunter the timing is showen all wrong. Been there done that.

Also when you have taken the timing cover off and found TDCC on #4 the timing marks will line up. remove the dizzy from the block and draw on the block the location of the drive dog. This comes in handy later on.

On the valve side of it.

On the later models with twin valve springs like the AM3 alloy head, bind with very little extra valve travel. You may need to find an older head with the single valve springs to rat for your head so they dont coil bind. There is also different hight spring caps over the different models. So if spring bind is still a problem you may need to find the taller type. I think the AM2 head has the highest.

You will also find the single valve spring also has a higher rest presure than the twin valve springs combined, making for better valve seating.

As for the valve hitting the piston face is very unlikely, unless the head has had a lot milled of the deck. These heads have a very deep pancake compreshion chamber and the valve dose'nt travel into the piston sweep area. even with the timing set wrong and a 320 thow lift cam the valve can only get with in 1.8mm of the piston. always pays to check thow. the old dummy test assembling the head, valve gear, push rods and rockers and doing a turn over by hand never goes a miss to check nothing binds up. Even a thin peace of plastercean stuck to the top of the piston will leave a indentation on it from the valves when they open and if it's getting a bit thin like less that 1.2mm left then something will have to changed.

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^^ This man speaks the truth. Stock hunter valves ain't that strong and snapping them isn't uncommon. If I remember correctly some sort of masda valve can be fitted. 323 I think.

This is right. There is two differnt types of valves supplyed for the hunter alloy head. There is a single peace and two peace. Run and hide from the two peace type as they love to rip apart at high revs even on a standard motor. Only easy way to to tell is by trying to stick a magnet to the valve. A single peace valve will attract to the stem and head but a two peace valve will only will attract to the stem.

The two peace valve is very uncommon and just about as rear as hens teath and normaly only found in recon motors with replacement valves. But this type of valve failing gives all the hunter valves a bad name. In saying this there proberly is better japer valves around.

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I would deffently do a cam if the motor is already out and just live with maybe a little less power. so the motor is then ready later to put some exstractors on and maybe a good carb later. Just don't know about $60 for them. I found a recept for mine and it was $120 inc postage from kelford and you know it's right and have all the specks. Kelford in chch used to have a race Hillman Hunter so should know what there doing. They should also be about to tell you things about your reground cam like run in and other problems like spring bind and valve clearence.

I would also fit a machined flywheel also when it is out. more cost but a lot of work to fit it later. Even models with auto boxs behind them love a lightened flywheel. You can get it running snorning at idle in drive and have car jumping back and forward. Would get some looks at the lights. even if you have a borg worner 35 auto fit a torque converter out of a borg worner 32 like found in MK2 cortina's. when you plant your foot from rest the motor will spin upto about 3000rpm before putting power to back wheels. with a hot motor you will sling shot mostly anything. a welded diff is a must for this carry on.

Just give ya some ideas. I had this setup and it lasted about 20,000km untill the oil pump in the auto blew to bits. Auto gets very hot, mine had no oil cooler thow. Seemed to work best with twin strombergs rather than twin webbers.

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