Alistair Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Stupid 1g-e motor fires for a couple of seconds then dies again, has plenty of fuel and spark. Havent changed anything on it that i can think? Bar turning the crank pulley when i was getting the flywheel bolts off? Anyone in east auckland with timing light that can come have a look at my stz? Im stumped/an idiot anyway. Thanks bowls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 vacuum leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Timing light is like $20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 Really? Where? Whenever ive looked (albeit only a couple of times) they were 150+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Dpends if you need a hardcone as one. Mine was $20 and just flashes. Has a red light which is hard to see but works fine Super Cheap stz, gets treated like shit and still goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Back to the issue at hand - if I am reading the description correctly it does not sound like timing. It the motor will start and run for a few seconds then die the advance/retard settings are not the culprit. I don't know what a 1G is so will shut the fuck up now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yeah quite queer. I dont get it. Will have a look at previous suggestion of vacuum leak but i think everything was all good in that department. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 What happens if you give it a rev? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr dori Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 got gas>? hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr dori Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 maybe some sensor not plugged in o2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yeah I was gonna say timing seems unlikely. Kinda depends on exactly what its doing. Will it kinda get closer and closer to starting while you crank and then eventually start and then die? Or does it start straight away and die straight away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 maybe some sensor not plugged in o2? Will have a look when I can get to the car today. Yeah about 1/4 tank in there. Also low, nah starts almost straight away under a full battery charge then dies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 sounds more to me like the ecu isnt getting power after it goes from "start" back to "on" pulled any codes? probably code 78; "lack of 1uz" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 ive delt with this probelem before. basically, as Mike-e said, your ecu is getting the wrong/no signal from some sensor. the toyota ecu's have two seperate bits, one for strat up and one for running. the start up ecu needs fuck all in the way of feedback, but once its running (over 800RPM i think) it switches over to full ecu. at this point the ecu finds that one sensor/plug/fucking anything is missing and shuts the whole shabang down. get the error codes and work from there. you will be fucking around for AGES trying to find what piss ant little thing is fucked without them. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Thanks man. Anyone know how the diag works on 1g? Its a little black diagnostics box by the fuses etc. I assume you put a buzzer or light on a couple of the terminals to give you dots and dashes type deal? Or is that just mitsis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 sign up to toymods. tis the best way to get proper information. it wont be long before Wayne turns this thread into a fucking fiasco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 bro your thinking of morse code. you bridge the Te and E1 pins in the diag plug to pull toyota codes, chuck the key on "on" and providing you've wired the engine checklight up it flashes the first digit, then the second digit. constant steadily flash is no codes checklight wiring is W pin of ecu -> 12v bulb -> earth to chassis / do what sheepers said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Are you talking the standard dash engine check light or another? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 im talking standard but dunno if wiring was interfered with during uz conversion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yeah wiring is untouched. Will check this afternoon, does the digit just show up in the gauge cluster somewhere? Im assuming it will say something about the auto not being plugged in, but i have tricked the wiring so that the neutrel safety switch is overridden so it starts etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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