drftnmaz Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much. best to measure up before you buy, did you get them made or buy them? i'm about to order some but there only 35mm and want bigger ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much. best to measure up before you buy, ok wat am i measuring then? just get it at the height i want then measure how much i need to drop the control arm by to make it atleast horizontal, or even try get it similar angle to wat it is now (stock height) yeh pretty much, lower it. then work out from there. you could even unbolt the struts and use some kind of tempory spacer ( 2" pipe cut to length or somthing) and some long bolts. just so you can throw it alltogether to check clearnaces. then drop it on the ground to check angles. drftnmaz: made them myself. think theres pics in my project thread. if not can dig some up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 i made up a set for my EX lancer, not too difficult to make if you're handy with a mill and you've got a decent drill press. mine were 2 inches, definitly helped out heaps with bump steer and had clearance with 15 inch wheels. in a perfect world your bump steer spacers (RCA's, whatever) would be the same length that you had lowered your car by, this would return your steering geometry to factory position. problem is for most of us it would also put the lower arm way too close to the ground. meh, 2 inches was heaps for my car and that was stupidly low, wouldn't go that low again in an EX. cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 of course.. I wasn't really thinking it through properly. I have heard of people raising their steering rack to get the geometry back.. but I think bump steer is more caused by the track control arms. They need to be on an angle.. mine are almost flat as the car is so low so that I get some bump steer. Kinda sucks sometimes but it looks cool so I put up with it. Its not that the control arms need to be on an angle, its that the factory geometry has been messed with. You can build a steering setup with the arms angled up and still avoid bumpsteer if you get the arc to match between the lower control arms and the steering arms. In your case, if changing the LCA's with RCA's doesn't also correct the steering arms (as it does on Toyotas etc) you may well make the handling worse. I would look at the sort of gear they use on Silvias etc as they have a similar problem, its like a rod with a nut at each end and a double taper. You need to change the outer steering arms to match. Callum rcas will do the trick on an old mitsy tho correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 heres the ones i made, outside bits where the bolts go thru, are soild machined down on lathe. bits between are bits of 2" pipe, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/ ... 011s-2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/ ... 020s-1.jpg best to get the angle down even if it is a pain in the ass. anything past flat will reduce camber as suspension compresses, so you'l be loosing camber when you need it most. wont have as much effect with stiff suspesion or running alot of camber to start with tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 of course.. I wasn't really thinking it through properly. I have heard of people raising their steering rack to get the geometry back.. but I think bump steer is more caused by the track control arms. They need to be on an angle.. mine are almost flat as the car is so low so that I get some bump steer. Kinda sucks sometimes but it looks cool so I put up with it. lowering the steering tie rod ends on the strut does the same job as raising the actual steering rack to combat bump steer, and is alot easier, especially if clearance to the sump is an issue, and since capri's racks are bolted on at an angle, raising it would also move it forward. http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13 fuck i love hijacking threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 fuck i love hijacking threads. hahah all i want is a yes or no as to wether i should get some rcas made up and it will be a good thing for me or not I would expect spacing the steering arm down while leaving the LCA as it is to really mess your geometry up but with mitsys which are macpherson strut an rca does this in one job doesnt it? as the steering arm and lca mount on the same place at the bottom of strut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 best to get the angle down even if it is a pain in the ass. anything past flat will reduce camber as suspension compresses, so you'l be loosing camber when you need it most. I remember someone saying this a while ago, and it didnt sound logical to me. So I drew up an exaggerated sketch in autocad.... Regardless of the angle of the lower arm, if the wheel goes over a bump of the same size in each case, the change in camber stays the same.... I dont see how it couldnt? Seeing as how the lower arm is still following the exact same radius... Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're saying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 good point. seems i may have fucked up there. sounded good at the time though. im having trouble studing your picture right now,. maybe i'l have somthing worth saying tomorow though. loose track maybe not camber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 but with mitsys which are macpherson strut an rca does this in one job doesnt it?as the steering arm and lca mount on the same place at the bottom of strut If they are the same as Toyotas, then yep the RCA will help you. I have them for my KE70 and my KP60 but not fitted yet. If you are getting them made then duplicating the factory locators is very important. Callum yeap same as toyotas, macpherson strut setup i am talking the lower knuckle into the engineering so they can copy the top of that so it sits in the strut perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Regardless of the angle of the lower arm, if the wheel goes over a bump of the same size in each case, the change in camber stays the same.... I dont see how it couldnt? Seeing as how the lower arm is still following the exact same radius...Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're saying... What your sketch is out on though is where the wheel mounts, and the direction of the camber change . The LCA is traveling in an arc, from pointing down traveling up to flat it effectively pushes the wheel out from the car at its bottom mounting point. This increases dynamic camber. However as it travels past horizontal the arc of travel pulls the bottom of the wheel in towards the car, decreasing your camber. The key flaw in your diagram is the wheel being at a constant angle to the LCA, its a constant angle to the strut not the LCA and is not attached at the pivot point but a little further up the strut generally. Callum Okay yep, I see what you mean... I guess that in a real life scenario you adjust the camber via the top of the strut, rather than magically being able to change the hub/strut angle to suit the LCA position. Or using RCAs to space out the front track, if they're offset. Thinking about suspension makes my brain hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 That link only really applies to wishbone setups, macpherson strut is quite different. Basically in macherson strut to get zero bumpsteer you need the LCA and steering arm to be the same length and sit at the same angle, this will keep the steering arm and LCA travelling in the same arc. Factory setup is generally not like this so short of a complete re-design your best bet is to return it to as close as factory as possible. I would expect spacing the steering arm down while leaving the LCA as it is to really mess your geometry up, I'm not an expert on Capri's though.Callum so if i were to make a new lower arm. that follows the angle, and has the same lenght of the steering arm. would be the best option (along with rca's) to try eliminate bump steer? i take it, both the lower arm and steering arm, have to arc from the same point, when steering is straight ahead. looks to be fairly stright foward on a kp. just need to make the lower arm sit higher at the strut end. as the lower arm currently angles down more than the steering arm. they seem to arc roughly from the same point at the rack/ x member end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 how are you going to do that? the steering arms are only like 120mm long arnt they? or am i reading it wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 ah, by steering arm, i mean from the balljoint, to where the rack end pivots in the rack. dont think what i said above would work though. as probably can't rase the balljoint pivot point on lower arm. could probably lower the steering arm ball joint insted though. i need to have a better look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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