Guest WESTCORT Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 Hey b0es started the eski up today and everything seems to be in order apart from the following... I get my strobe on to the pulley to check the timing cause the engine seems to idle ok (a bit lumpy) at about 1000rpm. i pull the hose out of my escII ignition module so there is no vacuum advance happening. So the engien seems to be fine everything all good, expecting the timing to be somewhere near 10degrees already but when i put the strobe on it, its WAY up, like somewhere around 30 degrees.. not too sure whats going on here as the engine seems to be in good tune, but the timing is way out.. and when i go to adjust it back to 10 degrees it just dies.. not too sure whats going on here, any ideas b0es? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 no exhaust at the moment apart from headers btw, duno is the backpressure or lack of it makes a difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Revhead Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 have you checked that all the markings are correctly marked? no backpressure = good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 I dont have a pulley with a single mark on it for any of the pinto engines Ive had. Was under the impression they wernt really an engine to time with light. There are instructions on the net somewhere of how to do it with a light. Isnt like normal from memory. Just get it right by ear and driving. Put it under a tad of load up a hill and if it pinks change it. Easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 Whats the static timing set at? Don't they change quite a bit when there running same happens on Kents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 should be 8degree btdc. ive owned my cortina for 4 years and always done tunes via eyes and ears. i dont even used a light when doing the points. keen to hear about how your electric dizzy setup went etc, ive had all the shit for a year or so and been meaning to put it in. is that diagram you put up how you wired it all up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 If it was 20 degrees too advanced then you'd never manage to start it up - it'd be firing that far before tdc it'd knock it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 I'd say the marking is just out, if it sounds all good and goes ok then it'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 should be 8degree btdc. ive owned my cortina for 4 years and always done tunes via eyes and ears. i dont even used a light when doing the points. keen to hear about how your electric dizzy setup went etc, ive had all the shit for a year or so and been meaning to put it in. is that diagram you put up how you wired it all up? yea bro that diagram is the basis of what ive done, except ive taken out everything which i dont need. Ill make a new diagram when i can time and give the numbers of each wire and colours etc to amke it easier as there is 4 or 5 different modules all with different colour coded wires. anyway the crank pulley is at tdc and the cam is line up to the mark and the dizzy is in #1 firing position. so i figured id chuck the timing light on it and be all good. but yea like sholdowa sed i thort it would knock it back. If you can find the info on how to do it with a strobe mef that wud be mint. would be nice to be able to accuratly set the timing with a light. Im sure guess and check would be just as good but im too lazy to fuck around with it so much haha just want to start driving the thing and stop workin on it so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 ok so took it for its first drive today. went fine for a little bit, probly about 500m on various slopes, and then i drove it down the hill which is about 5-6km. so anyway i drove down and then after about 5 km it started to jerk softly at first and then getting worse and worse. had it idling fine before but now it wont idle it just dies. and i cant drive it anywhere or it does like i said before, starts juddering and jerking and gets worse and worse till i stop. so my thought are, the timing light wasnt lieing and the timing is really about 30degrees advanced. this would explain why its hard to turn over and it could explain why it would jerk, ie when i climbed the rev range the timing would advance more and more and then it would become too much and almost knock the engine back. so my question is then, why wont it idle when i set the timing to 10degrees? its got nothing to do witht he carb i dont think because i swapped carbs over today and it didnt help. really lost here, any advice, input or whatever would help.. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 is it a standard engine? is the coil running the voltage it was designd to take? feal how hot the coil is if it stops again. i always set pinto off timing marks all the pintos i have have marks. the pointer is part of the front alloy cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 na engine is worked, race head etc. the coil is a oil cooled gt40, made for electronic ignition so it should be more than sweet. gonna put a points dizzy in after work today so i can rule out the chance of it being the electronic setup. then ill check the timing again, take it for a drive etc. will check manifold for leaks aswell. after talking to a few people today, the jerking is making me lean towards the fuel pump as the problem. I dont remember seeing any fuel in the filter when it stalled on the side of the road yesterday. so ill grab a new filter and chuck the other pump i have in and see if that makes a difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 has this engine ever been runing fine since the rebuild or whatever? possibility is that the timing belt isnt put on correctly and tdc and the dizzy are out of sync, which could explain your engine running at 30btdc but not at 10btdc? hmm probably not though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 yea hasnt been run at all, fresh rebuild. already double checked that, turned the engine over manually to tdc and took the cambelt cover off and the mark on the camgear was pointing to the right spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 If it is a worked engine, then getting it to idle at 1000rpm at all is an acheivement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Depends what cam. Mine idled at 1000RPM wih the worked 2l. My cam was similar to his. Could get mine to 900RPM but the cam sounded arse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Sorry, for some reason I thought this was a kent engine. Amazine how you can misread the thread title! Mind you, how it runs on idle is more down to the weight of the flywheel than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 ok so took it for its first drive today. went fine for a little bit, probly about 500m on various slopes, and then i drove it down the hill which is about 5-6km. so anyway i drove down and then after about 5 km it started to jerk softly at first and then getting worse and worse. had it idling fine before but now it wont idle it just dies. and i cant drive it anywhere or it does like i said before, starts juddering and jerking and gets worse and worse till i stop. so my thought are, the timing light wasnt lieing and the timing is really about 30degrees advanced. this would explain why its hard to turn over and it could explain why it would jerk, ie when i climbed the rev range the timing would advance more and more and then it would become too much and almost knock the engine back. so my question is then, why wont it idle when i set the timing to 10degrees? Set it to 10 degrees that's where it needs to be. The problem wont be timing advance. its got nothing to do witht he carb i dont think because i swapped carbs over today and it didnt help. Are the carbs off a std engine? What cam are you running? If they are and you are running a lumpy cam it's possible the idle mix is to rich... may be too lean. How does it run with the timing set correct? If it runs OK off idle then it's definitly the idle mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 na engine is worked, race head etc.the coil is a oil cooled gt40, made for electronic ignition so it should be more than sweet. Is it the "transformer" coil GT40 or a standard can style of coil. The Transformer GT40s are shite. gonna put a points dizzy in after work today so i can rule out the chance of it being the electronic setup. then ill check the timing again, take it for a drive etc. will check manifold for leaks aswell. I'd be surprised it that was the cause... how did it go? after talking to a few people today, the jerking is making me lean towards the fuel pump as the problem. I dont remember seeing any fuel in the filter when it stalled on the side of the road yesterday. so ill grab a new filter and chuck the other pump i have in and see if that makes a difference Or you can just run it then lift the top of the carb and check the fuel level in the bowl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 ok so i havent had a chance to do it yet, by the time i got home and put a dizzy in and tried swapping the fuel pump it was too dark and loud to start the engine with no muffs at my mrs house. am gona go home and try it tonight. so the flywheel is lightened and balanced, pretty much just the ring gear left. the carb is a 32/36 for now off a standard cortina engine. The coil is the round type 1, not a transformer. Unsure on the exact specs of the cam but it sounds lumpy as hell. will set it to 10 degrees today and let you all know how it goes. fingers crossed. its about time i got rid of some of the tyres i got at my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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