Jump to content

RT's Capri


Guest madrx4

Recommended Posts

yeah, if its a straight piece you need to shorten, cant see why not.

cut twice, tidy up insides, but together, hold with earth clamp, tack two sides, stitch betweentacks overlapping them to ensure a good seal.

if you wanna get flash, fill the tube with welding gas first. that way the inside of the joint will be mint too.

other than that, just dont grind down the weld.

heres my turbo oil drain done the same way, except a more convoluted shape :

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4280.jpg

needed a friend to hold that as the clamp couldnt do it...

that one started out straight and long.

fred.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 168
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

hmm looks kinda difficult as the pipe goes down to the filter at the end on a angle.. it's probably quite close. Might be able to cut the filter part back a bit.. and bend the pipe a little.

I was super suprised that with the gearbox and engine mounted up the car sat at the same height as it did with the 2L. lol. At least I won't need new springs! :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Ops I accidently posted a reply on ya project page.

Man its looking HOT!! Il be getting back into mine soon, Iv been in aussie for just over a year, got back the other week. Twin turboing a 1uzfe, It will be great having 2 V8 Capris on the Chch streets haha.

Mines going to be a wee way off yet, gotta get a job first :? Iv got an interview next week for a gig in Blenham, so that will suck coz il still be working on it in chch but working up there, ahh well, need$$$$$$ from some where

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out of hand in the best way!! :twisted:

Yeah man, tell me about it. I initinally planed on about 5k, but naaa ahhh. Flywheel, clutch, gearbox, diff, drive shaft + the engine crap like turbos, computer, stainless piping, intercooler....... Depressing, espiecaly as I dont even have a F@#king job! ahhh well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha, or just buy a welder and a pile pf scrap steel ay. was talkin to a guy the other day who's building a rover v8 mk1 escort, said wayne martin told him he had to run 5 stud with the v8, I'm assuming thats because he's got bubble arches and fucken huge spacers, hopefully capri's will be ok with v8's because they are generally stronger than scrots. fuck its gona be a mean race, all 4 of us eh? (Josh included of course)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fair to say if you have a twin turbo V8 then you're gonna take it out..

if you car doesn't twist up like a pretzel that is. :wink:

Yeah talked to Wayne about the 5 stud thing.. it's bullshit. Don Hoft tells everyone you need 5 stud but you don't. Escorts either have to upgrade to 1/2" studs or go 5 stud. Capris already have 1/2"

I freaked out over that cos of my wheels! lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, like i said, i think this guy has to purely cos he's running 25mm spacers

I'd wanna run 5 stud with that much bloody leverage too... doesnt worry me at all though, I'm running 5 stud anyway, cheaper and easier wheels and brakes and it means i don't have to restud my hilux diff. fucket, gona go work on the thing now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay back to work,

Managed to get my replacement sump and pickup sorted after the last one didn't fit. :-( You can see how different they are, the new one is shallower but is much better for ground clearance. The strange mini-pan in the front appears to make up for a bit more oil capacity.

Here is some details on the new baffle. I'm a little concerned that the may not be adaquate oil drainage past the baffle to make up for the amount being sucked out. Can anyone confirm this?

I have checked where the oil level sits and it is only just above the baffle.. about 5mm or so. Drain points are in the corners and of course the massive hole. Is that enough?

sump1aw8.jpg

sump2cm3.jpg

(I'm only posting this stuff in here cos it's kinda too boring for the project thread imo)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you sure its that low? i left about 15mm of oil above mine when stopped such that at 7krpm there is still probably about 5mm on there and getting sucked through the hole as fast as the pump needs it.

think of it like a sink right, one hole, and it all goes through it quite quickly. same deal.

the idea is that when you pull a G, the oil cant run/tip out of that lower half.

having gaps round the edge is counter productive believe it or not.

heres mine from the inside, zero oil surge so far.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... ldedin.jpg

reason being that during sustained cornering, the oil would bugger off and not find its way down anyway, so you want to trap it in such that when its tipped it has to overflow out of your central and high hole, or be sucked by the pump.

having a vented top plate will help with sudden transients though, thats true. stop it sloshing around etc.

either way, whatever you decide, it will be better than without a top plate.

hope that helps.

(feeling like fucking killing someone right now, so shafted, you wouldnt believe me)

fred.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it should be pretty close, mine is about 10mm I think. Thats why I spent the last 4 weeks getting a factory pickup as the one I had bent up to fit looked like it would be fine.. but when my engineer mate came to view it he said.. nup.. pickup point is too far away from sump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...