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1300 engine rebuild


Jerm

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ok went to railside wreckers looking for a 2L he showed me a capri one that would fit straight in cos the sump if different to the cortina and sierra 2L $650.... but apparenty if i build my 1300 right it will be pretty good and way cheaper.. he told me to get a 1300 put 1100 pistons in it (almost doubles the compression he reckons) drop it in with a weber and extractors and he reckons "that cunt will go quick as nuts" and another thing was to get the cam reground, mild road race or some shit not to wild.

1300 engine $150

1100 Pistons and rings $100-150

weber and manifold $200

Extracors $30 (already got)

Cam regrind ???]

the prices for the engine, carb, manifold and pistons are from railside so they are a bit expensive... can probably get them cheaper elsewhere.

and i could just do it with the engine which is in my car but i want t keep it running while i build the engine.

what are your thoughts on this ...?... i'm going to try it cos it will be way cheaper than a 1600 or a 2L conversion .. certs etc... and he reckons it would shit on a 1600...

Def: this might answer your question "really how fast can a 1300 carby be" :D

Cheers

Jeremy

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If your changing pistons, it would prolly be good to change the rest of the easily replacable bits in your engine too, gaskets stuff. Kind of like a mini rebuild. Also, your block will have to be honed for fitting the new pistons (unlesss the engine builder is ghetto), so that's an extra cost, shouldn't be too much tho. Oh, and get a port and polish, and the weber jetted to suit and larger valves and better springs and "that cunt'll go and quick as fuck, like the cunt i sold to that fucking young fella last fucking week" :D

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yeah i looked at doing that to my 1300 but it's not worth it aye. There's no trouble in sticking a 1600 in just bolts straight in with no adjustment's the only thing i changed was a little bracket on the carb.(very minor). and i don't think you need a cert for a 1600 cause they come out with them. just tell your insurance company, just to be safe. and maybe the rego paper but half the time there wrong on the paper anyway. The 1600 looks pretty much exactly the same the head's just a little higher above the water pump.

1600 = $50 lake a gamble with its condition

= $150 - $200 pretty good condition

= $500 awesome condition/recent rebuild

a 2L is a bit more work and chews heaps for gas and doesn't have that much for power on a good cond 1600

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yeah gaskets of course... i don't think you can even take an engine apart and put it back together without new gaskets.....

when you do your rocker cover you will probably need a new gasket.

and i just found out it will raise the compression from 9:1 to 10.2:1 ... anyone know what kind of difference this is goign ot make?

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yeah but apparently you can get more power out of the 1300 it revs better and 1600s are getting quite hard to find i'm just going to try it

if its no good i'll just put a 2L in.. i wanna have a go at building an engine to.. and thats a fuckign simple engine

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Doesn't get much more simple than the old crossflow...

There is never any substitute for cubic inches (or cc's as the case may be...). Always start with the largest engine you can and work from there. As far as getting more power from a 1300 than a 1600 - No Way! You want a tuff 1600 then fit datsun crank and rods, custom flywheel and bump up the compression - then go nuts on the head and you'll never look back!

The 1600's turn up quite often - I've got one sitting on my front lawn (still in a panelvan). You just have to keep your eyes open and they'll turn up.

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Here's the listed std power/torque figures for a high compression mk2 esky engine.

Escort mk2

1300 - 42Kw @ 5500 and 91Nm @ 4000

1600 - 62Kw @ 5500 and 125Nm @ 4000

Sierra (early carb'd version)

2000 - 77Kw @ 5200 and 157Nm @ 4000

Cortina mk5

2000 - 72Kw @ 5200 and 150Nm @ 3500

That's a whole lot more torque for the 2L and the 1600 is already way above the 1300. You'd have to spend quite a bit on a 1300 just to get it to the same level as the 1600 - never mind going further!

First gen Mondeo Zetec

2000 - 105Kw @ 5200 and 185Nm @ 4500 :D

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Guest WESTCORT

Theres this sierra station wagon down the road from me for sale for $300 you know the maroon station wagon ones that you always see?

question is are these the ones with teh goood gearboxes? motors probly got a million k's since its only $300 but the rest of it is shit, so maybe it aint so bad

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Couple of Q's to ask yourself:

does it smoke?

how does the gearshift feel?

any whining from the gearbox?

They are the good boxes to get, but are prone to wear. Mine has been reconditioned as most of the bearings were shit and the layshaft had worn 25% through... It felt terrible - $600 later...

If it has the small electronic ignition module (about a 2"x4" ali plate with a small black plastic module riveted on) then it's a good one to get. That's one of the main reasons why the sierra has more power than the cortina...

The price sounds right though - they rust very badly so often turn up with good mechanicals. Keep the engine, gearbox (+ xmember) and ignition and ditch the rest...

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hmm yeah 2L is definantly the way to go.. i think i will probably do that in the end.. but iw ant to try the 1300 ... i have heard from a few different sources that the 1300 is a better engine for modifying...... but who knows if i see a good 1600 for sale i will probably go for it... then the two litre of course when i have the cash cos "theirs no replacement for displacement"

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Guest WESTCORT

well there you go, if worse comes to worse buy a cheap shitty escort and take the 1600 out of it. the way escorts rust im sure you can find a cheap one with a shit body and good engine

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If your wanting to raise the compression you can also put a 1300 head on a 1600 block, they have different shaped valves an all that carry on...

The rules for certing are bullshit, they say something like if you get a 5% increase in power you need to get it certed, that would mean every gay honda with a pod filter an exhaust system would need it... yea right.

I chucked a 1600 into my 1300, it's still rego'd as a 1300 and the warrant guy saw that it was a different engine but didnt say anything, and this was at VTNZ, not some dodgy garage.

The difference between my 1300 and my 1600 is honestly quite small, and I've done quite a fair comparrison (same carb and exhaust on both engines). With the 1600 I notice the extra torque alot more though, especially when going up hills. The biggest improvement you can make to each engine is the carb, so I'd say a 1300 with a big carb would go just as good as a standard carb'd 1600 so the choice is up to you. I just went with the 1600 because it was actually cheaper than any of the 1300's I could find.

Oh yea and rebuilding is a piece of cake :wink: Although pommy engines use a different sized nut for everything :x And yes, a gasket kit is esential ($120ish), along with new rings ($60ish) and make sure you check the bearings/crank. I also honed my cylinders before I put the rings in, I made friends with the local engine reconditioner and he let me borrow his tool for doing this, but I found that a really fine grinding stone bit on the end of a cordless drill was just as good, then use really fine sand paper and then polish them clean.

I can't really think of anything else to add at the moment :?: but yea I've done the whole crossflow rebuild thing recently and am happy to answer any questions.

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other than casting the numbers on the side of the block the only real difference is that the 1600 block is about an inch taller than the 1300.

You're right - they won't notice the change frojm 1300 to 1600. If you're ever in an accident and they find that you've got a different capacity engine you're toast - insurance will be refused. It's an irritating fact of life that one... Insurance companies want your money, they don't want to give it back and that will give them a way out.

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fuck its hard to decide... i think i'm going to go for the 1300 with 1100 pistons, port and polish and maybe a cam.. with a weber and extractors..... this should be sweet.. and also you can pick a 1300 up for like $100-200 but a decent 1500 will be atleast $500 which would be almost the whole 1300 rebuild minus the cam.... and its legit

... escorta i would be real keen on talking to you about your rebuild cos its the first one i have done, your first also?

if the 1300 dosen't satisfy me.. in goes the 2L.....when i can afford

Cheers

Jeremy

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Yea it was my first one too. Helps to have someone with a bit of experience aswel as the haynes manual. Do you use messenger? escortahAThotmailDOTcom and we can talk sometime, otherwise we'll have to make sure we go to one of the meets/cruises sometime.

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Guest WESTCORT

Id go bigger than 1300 if i was u jerm, if u cant afford bigger right now just save, otherwise u might regret putting money into a 1300 when you could have used it on a bigger engine

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