jinx

You can cut a section from the std escort sump and fit it into the 2L one. Makes a much tidier and almost std looking conversion.

Escort should then be 50mm thick. Will confirm shortly.

mk3,4,5 Cortina Pinto 1600/2000cc engines is what he's after. The round rubber engine isolator that goes on the mounts.

Jerm capri suspension is better than escort - if for nothing else than the spring seats are 1" lower... You also get a little more camber. Pretty much the same otherwise. Bistro good point - these days a little tweak on a boost controller will do considerably more than the change from 1300cc to 1600cc... even 1300cc to 2000cc really...

Not true. The english escort diffs we have here are all the same. The only difference is the ratios, the axles are no different and there is no strength difference in the centres. Even the anglias use the same diff centre - the 4.444:1 from these is commonly used in escort rally cars with no real problems.

Likely to be a weber 32/36. Will probably have 26 and 28 stamped on the outside of the two throats. Model number I believe is typically stamped on a small tag attached to one of the float bowl screws and will probably list it as a dgav or something. The two throats open sequentially and there is normally an auto choke mounted on the side (two small water hoses passing out of an odd looking housing on the engine side by memory...). They seem to be selling on trademe for $40-$80 depending on condition and who wants to blow the most money on the day...!

so is any cam gear or oil pump - ready to file up a new one of these are you? Buying them gives you (generally) a better product, designed to do the job, and with the correct attachment parts. Modification of the locating holes/pins is quite common as there are so many different types out there that they only make a small number and leave it to the shop or buyer to modify to fit. Try pricing up new diff U-bolts and you'll soon see that most of these kits are pretty cost effective.

check your e-mail.

What about using a stainless steel flask from the warehouse with your std pump mounted on the side (hidden as far around as possible). Would be much thinner and classier than the original set-up.

I've got a pair of modified bmw discs i'll sell for cost if anyone wants them for an escort/capri. fits under std wheels. peugeot discs can also be a good mod - 283mm though - 15" wheels or more. rt - they're the same as simon's ones.

Have a serious think about using the sierra trans tunnel as well. It would greatly increase the amount of space around the box and it'd actually be possible to change a clutch without first removing the engine...

diff does not fit - sierra's are irs. I have seen it done once and it was extremely intensive, not pretty and not advisable... Pretty much just the engine and gearbox are all you can get from the sierra. Longer throttle cable, speedo and clutch cable from a 2L cortina will deal to the rest. Two piece auto driveshaft from an escort will fit stright up to the sierra box. If wanting a bigger radiator use a cortina one as well - still has the same mounting pattern and fits stright in.

the drums are a good upgrade - they're the same as sport and ghia ones as well. A really easy bolt on upgrade... axles? Not really much in it - most of the escort diffs we got here have the same internals...

To get new ones for my 2L conversion for the escort I went into a local trucking parts supplier and picked up a couple off the shelf. Just a basic round mount (available in different heights) with the metal plates bonded to either side with the studs welded to the plates. All the dimensions are the same as my old ones. Warning to those using polyeurethane or similar bushes for engine mounts - by current nz law you should have all mounts for engine and g/box made of the same material. It'll probably only get picked up by an overzealous wof check or your certifier (not that most here bother with that anyway...).

It's all about standards and safety. You need someone who is impartial to have a proper look at what has been done to sign it off. You're only cheating yourself if it's not done. As far as the cost goes - make sure it's up to standard first. The car needs to be at minimum wof standard before you even consider taking it in for cert. My old torana was just over 50mm off the ground, had a 2 3/4" exhaust and a race prepped 186 with triple carbs. Every mod was certified and listed on the plate. Cops always pulled me over, but could never ticket me - really pissed them off... Don't spend all the cash modifying your car just to shortcut the last step.

I'm doing the same. Getting all the certifiable mods done at once so I can then carry on with the rest in my own time. Beats paying the costs to get it certed repeated times. Also beats the consequences of having the car on the road in an illegal state - cops and insurance don't look too kindly on that... ltsa actually have the current cert requirements on their website somewhere.

Drive - 2 - Right Hand Drive. Engine - J - 1.3 of some sort. Should be a number after it as well. Trans - 5 - ? Normally B for manual and D for auto. Axle - C - 3.89:1 ratio diff I can't help with the rest sorry. Paint and trim will be NZ spec so finding info on those will be very difficult. Best bet would be the RS owners club or something similar.

most of the codes still apply though - diff, engine, trans etc

Why not strip it, scan the face onto the computer and then make all the custom dials you ever want... Get a sticker sheet from a stationery store to print onto. You could stuff around making all the possible colour combinations etc with ease and then transfer it onto your dials.

If they're positive open you can run an extra wire to a spot on the car to put a 9V battery onto the body and the wire. Generally gives enough to open them.

The blue ones were earlier models. May have come in cortinas up to mk4. The black ones were definitely in the mk5 and sierra. The black ones have much better quality head castings. Less casting defects and a much neater finish. Heads are easy to change - I remove mine to fit the engine into the escort, it makes it much easier to fit and is a good time to check the engine over...

buy them. they will fit (check offset first though...) Offset i'm not sure on, i do have full specs on the various wheels that will fit an escort but don't actually know the std escort (or capri) offset. Audi are between 35-42mm ofset with a 57mm counterbore (centre hole). Is there anywhere I can post this stuff so people can download it? Check these out as well - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 069851.htm The roller bearing strut tops I've used are from a GQ galant (suits small hole escorts only - 78 onwards?). To fit them you will need to turn down your shock rod a millimeter or two and make a spacer to go under the top nut (they are a lower strut top so the escort/capri struts are then too long and need this). You will also have to file the three mounting bolt holes slightly and the centre hole also needs to be adjusted to fit. It is a very easy job (provided someone can make the spacers) and is one of the best mods to do to an escort. You should really get the shocks professionally modded (i used an angle grinder and a file - not recommended) and have the top of the rod turned down to the correct diameter as well as having it shortened and rethreaded. This mod cost me $60 for a complete pair of front struts, the rest was done at work.

Saab wheels also fit. It's a cheap way of getting 14" or 15" wheels. My steering is fine, even with a quickrack. Fitting roller bearing strut tops makes life much easier!

15X6" with 195/50's on a mk2 with std arches - plenty of room there.

It's probably easier to find a rusty old mk2 sport or ghia and get the diff and engine you want from that. I got my last 3.54:1 diff for $100 - complete with 9"drums, and the 4.444:1 diff I've got came in a panelvan for the same price... Just keep your eyes open, be patient and they'll turn up.