SiRge

Terrorising old folks homes in no time m80

It's not much, but it is a running video

I especially liked his hello kitty beanie.

Goat you beautiful man you. She runs finally. Spark issue in the end, condenser is poked, joe happened to have one rolling around his flatmates starlet. Rangi mod installed and she fired up pretty much first pop. Grin was ear to ear.

Very cool! probably N600's I'd say, but I'm not sure how many N360s actually went to USA

I have service manual yes. Welcome to come over and gander. This is my first car older than 90's so my learning curve of "Just hit it with a hammer" seems odd to me. We got a single choff btw, but that was within like 2 mins of cranking and spraying ether and getting high on fumes.

Yea the station village is liek that whole complex though, with the 3? bars in there and 54 gaming machines BS. Might be lucky, might be not...

If you know of a leakdown tester then that would put my mind at ease for if the valves are seating. The spark seems to be quite strong, the points looks in good condition, I could find another points from Japan, but we're producing a solid spark with just new plugs. It's more than likely the timing of the spark more than anything The main problem with timing is you're meant to set the crank to TDC with the head off, then put the head on on TDC via the mark, then tighten the chain. Which we didnt do it, we just did a rangi job, so in theory we're either spot on, or off by 1 link.(We've checked it twice now and think it's good, but you never really know...

http://www.stuff.co.nz/dominion-post/news/71825662/lower-hutts-station-village-entertainment-complex-closes-its-doors I'm unsure the consequences of this station village closing on P&J, but it is part of it...

Another pictureless update as the car hasnt moved But since the last update I have: (With help with a friend or 2) - Chain timing was out, during the process of turning the motor over once we had filled it with all new fluids, friend (Or me, unsure now) turned engine backwards and skipped the chain as the hydrolic pressure went to nothing on the tensioner. Instead of taking head off and organising new H/G to get it back in timing, I only had to turn it backwards another 2 skips of the timing chain (Held the cam at TDC with vice grips and rotated motor back like 1/8 of a turn in the end to then be timed correctly again) (Sorry Scott and Jared ) So it's now timed up as best as I can see ... hopefully. - Next onto the carb I have cleaned it out various time with carb cleaner, removed the jets, made sure they flowed well (Carb cleaner is aerosol so punch a bit of grim out or all of the things), unfortunately there's a wee bit of old fuel jelly in there and I'm not entire sure if it's completely out of the passages. It doesnt seem to dissolve in the carb cleaner too well, but we did only find it in the float. Float is now filling up, carb is now giving us fuel, unsure how much fuel still. Might pay to say I have the 2nd gen carb here, so looks the same as the Z600/N600 carb. - Starter motor we had to drown the bushes in CRC to get dirt loose enough for their springs to work, smoked a little bit when we first had it cranking over too But she's all fine and dandy now, cranks over like new! - For the points we've adjusted the brush in there so it's a more suitable distance from the lube. Wasn't any rust or dirt in there so I'm hoping it all looks ok. The spark seems to be firing on both plugs (Replaced them too), unsure on the spark timing yet however, I can't see why someone would change it though? - We've done a compression test dry when it was first timed up, had 60psi equal over both cylinders. So hopefully that means there aren't any bent valves in there, but maybe the valves are seating 100%. We've lubed the bores up since and we're going to do another compression test and also find a leakdown tester to use as well. So next thing to do is probably lube up the bores some more, and then do another compression check, other than that, I'm out of ideas now. Help?

Yea seen that. Thanks though, debating if I need it (See: gf)

P&J just closed? :'(

This build thread is underwhelming Put an RB in it, bolts right in etc. Glad you got it sorted though (Y) Been casually looking out for some 4x108 wheels to see if anything popped up, nothing so far. Looks super cool, cant wait to see it in person so we can compare how much oils we leak. Need to try find you one of those old sunglasses windshield cover thing (Those cardboard foldable things)

Hey, a friends doing a similar swap at the moment and has a couple questions. - What driveshafts you using/plan to use? - What are you doing for the drivers side mount? Do you have an adaptor design in CAD he can obtain or buy?

Thanks for introducing yourself AllTorque

Possibly coming for srs business items to discuss, such as:

Tried to start the thing lol. Friend Nathan came around, we started the day off with some creamy blue cheese on crackers and cup of tea, really to set the mood good. Made some pork rib dry rub in preparation for a bbq after the lundy 500 in a couple weeks then got down to business. Replaced oil, plugs, fuel (Jesus the fuel, it resembled coke when we drained the old stuff out!). Found this car has an electric petrol pump, sounds like a very small bilge pump lol. Enough about that, inspected the points, connected a battery up, tried to turn it over. *Clunk*. Unsure what I was thinking to be honest. Hmmm. Lets try 14 times more to see if it was just an off chance. *clunk*, nope. Still poked. Rocked the car back and forth, tried again, nothing. Another friend josh came over as he's an electrical genius, cleaned a few earth, ran some tests over the car for voltage etc. Tested relays, seem fine. Manually spin the motor over a few rototions with a spanner, still nothing. That sad moment you have to figure out how a Motor-Generator works. The silly thing doesn't have a starter motor, it has a motor and generator in 1. When you apply juice to the motor it spins and start the motor, but as it's spinning it generates power, so when the car continues to run, the motor's spinning and generating power. Oh Honda, you produce some innovative hunks of crap, but it's still very cool. Well next time I'll be taking electrical stuff apart and looking a bit like this while doing it as I really have no idea.

Hi Alex.

I like it, makes it seem like actual tail lights. Just my opinion but I hate it when guys put like LED strip stuff on, as sacrilege as putting chrome Altezza style anything. Makes baby jesus cry.

How creepy we talkin

Is it under the white roofed covered car park thing?

Sugars no good, doesnt really mix well unless there's a bit of water content in the fuel. The sugar just tends to block the fuel rather than destroying motors (This is for EFI). For carbies etc yes sugar works as there tends to be little filtering in older sysytems but if you've installed a modern day fuel filter sugar probably wont really affect you much/all. For any motor though, if you wan to ruin it, you add some bleach. Starts oxidising everything through the motor, fuel pump, lines, injectors, pistons, cylinders, head, exhaust. Essentially the motor rusts itself from the inside out or seizes. If the fuel smells funny and you're killing pumps, just look at the health of the intake manifold etc as well. You might have been bleached.

They still require you to get it signed off, but I doubt the resin will be a suitable replacement for welding. The main problem they have is that with P/S rack converted to manual without locking it, you're putting all the turning stresses on like 6mm of metal that is designed to twist... and by locking it you then have that 6mm metal plus the sleeve around it taking the turning stresses. I'm not saying its completely unsafe to just remove the P/S unit, race drivers have been doing it for years, but it only takes 1 to break and suddenly the issue is on the certifier for saying it was satisfactory, then their heads on the chopping board.

For my car, you couldn't keep standard power steering with the engine swap, but mr2s have electric pump so I see no reason to remove tbh.

Yea I've gone though it for my civic. Like $500 odd to get it done through a steering specialist (There's only 1 in the country who will touch it so you're kinda shit out of luck). You can technically get it done yourself but you have to prove to lvvta that it is done correctly. P/S racks tend to be quite different than non P/S so you're probably out of luck in terms of swapping parts around. Why do you want to remove P/S?