Brennan

Do you have the car? Measure the points of the car. Should be parallel? Otherwise I can check of the volvo diff I modified in my ke70 this weekend for you.

Very bored on conference call so made you a to do list. The end is In sight -Locate bumper and fenders?? -Prep for paint – sand/panelbeat -Fill in rust/supercharger holes -Paint -Pull out engine and loom -Clean engine -Sort loom -Sort out springs and shocks (give touge his back) -Brakes -Oils and fluids -Fit interior -Wof and reg -Drive mountain road Two weeks work?

Was going to buy those wheels, would have if they were both 7's or 7.5 As for tyres I would go toyo t1r 195/45

sw20 engine and box? how hard is it to do? same driveshafts? mounting points?

Apologies for disgusting photoshop. the darker would help not painting the engine bay and door jams

http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/RTG-Desktops-3.jpg

not an expert by any means, ​but i would be looking at a single piece driveshaft, as there is less parts to break with the 350hp. and only one driveshaft loop as k-trips said ^

JAde/gun metal grey like this sort of Or original colours, otherwise people won't recognise it haha.

woohoo it has started!

i thought they were 1410mm. because my volvo one is 1390mm?? not that the 20mm really matters to much.

You had to ask. Haha. Was holding of posting anything about the rear till I knew what was happening. The max coilovers come with a big disc that you weld into the stock position at the top. This helps spread the load a little. But I always knew they wouldn't fit in the rear. Due to the fat volvo brakes being in the way. It was going to work if I stood the coilovers up so they were not leaning over at any angle and moved the top mounting hole out an inch or so. But all the metal is so thin up there. I didn't want to risk it. So over the next few weekends. I will be cutting up the boot and welding in 3mm and 5mm metal plate, that will come up off the chassis. So I would recomend to avoid rear coilover setups. If you aren't up to the extra work. And I am not sure how the cert man would react if you had the weight of the coilover in the shock mount.

Wish I had of stuck with coilovers with separate shock and spring for the rear. Going to be a mission trying to fit my rear coilovers. And those headers are looking so nice! Might have to get some made for the 3sge eventually.

wondering if it would be better to do it to the inner bushings? that way you wouldn't lose lowness. or would this upset the alignment of something else? also i cant imagine adjusting the camber on the back would make the CV joints to happy. or then again may fix the problem of always smashing CV's in x7's???

definitly no need to buy them. go to local steel masters. machine flat face on bolts. laser cut/water jet a heap of offset washers. @mitch, can you do the autocad?? if not i'm more than happy to do it.

you shouldnt need the spare subframe though, just modify yours. Vern would be able to do the camber mod for not much.

Foxton auto dismantlers 06 363 6600 You would need a cordless sabre saw. Or one bloody long extension cable/generator

Mean. That's cheap. Can get mine done now haha

And sweet. You finally got the driveshaft done! Who did you use and how much?

Would be very easy and cheap to make one of the offset bolt and washer set ups. I can't see why it cost that austailian $200 to do it. More like $20. Rose joint wouldn't work as you are trying to move it vertically. Pretty sure foxton wrecker still has sub frames. Would not be fun trying to get them out tho.

find somebody with a 3d printer. To remake the fender mirror perch thingy. Or resin/rubber moulding would also work Edit: haha shit I'm to slow.

can't remember if i showed you or just told you about it. but this was that camber mod for the back, for when it comes to cert time http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/19176

what did Vern reckon? slice into them and see if they explode? haha

He needs to get on to it...

my "max" and J-Calico "BC" are both for ae86. it dosnt look like it is going to go super low, due to where they need to be welded. but im sure keeper springs will help if i have the urge to go lower.

Yea. I sent him ( andy smith) the drawing that cletus did for us in the tech section. And he was happy for it do be done that way. Can't go very low tho sadly with them welded like that. But can always get keeper springs if I really have to.