Brennan

whoop more progress also turns out auto drive shafts have a different yolks, so returned it and grabbed another. hope it fits this time Also some new goodies arrived from summit racing yesterday And a new Hood release cable from Thailand Cant wait to drive this bloody thing! Any questions? Ask away

Cheers. Yea rosskilda still sounds like a decent option. My boss was saying his dyno is a little off though? Not as accurate as it should be. Not that I'm aiming for numbers to boast about.

Dragged her around to the engineers workshop. He will be doing the rear coilovers and the driveshaft for me. Bearing was buggered on the driveshaft that came with the engine conversion from T-Parts. And apparently they have now closed down. Making it difficult to claim for warranties. So went to local toy-yota wreckers. And grabbed another. Will be keeping it two piece this time too. Also found Keith Stewart dyno. Out by rongotea. Anybody know what he is like? Price and quality wise? Cheers

You will need to find similar but legal wheels for cert remember. If you go for the 185/55 stretch.

seem pricey, paying for the design more than the metal i guess. your getting rid of the 1ggte?

i wouldnt do it myself though... haha they are fairly important bits. have you got gas for the tig? we just need to pick up a bottle for ours and i will be able to tig my exhaust

got the rear discs machined up. are all drilled and fit much nicer with no movement around the studs Also had the front struts crack tested. Passed with flying colours have since painted them black and are drying hopefully ready to be fitted tomorrow.

mhmm very interesting, with the draino also i have the spare pair of lower control arms for the front, if you would like to lengthen them after you get a cert. then you would have a spare for a wof's if they dont like them being extended. like this http://csgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/555-Plain-LCA.jpg

This? http://youtu.be/A-1cTpSZ1l8

These are the "powered by max" ae86 coilover. which are ~51mm I.D same as x7 cressida O.D and yes are height adjustable with out touching the spring. Although, i folowed this method to make sure it was all legal and able to get cert Which meant it only goes this low can raise it up 50ish mm from that height if i need to though.

recieved the welded coilovers back, before i get them crack tested, i put them in to see how low it was going to be. is about 80-90mm to the sill discussion can be found here http://oldschool.co....-powered/page-9

Pretty sure my old man got them from summitracing or jegs for his 6x demon 98's not to long ago

Do you have the car? Measure the points of the car. Should be parallel? Otherwise I can check of the volvo diff I modified in my ke70 this weekend for you.

Very bored on conference call so made you a to do list. The end is In sight -Locate bumper and fenders?? -Prep for paint – sand/panelbeat -Fill in rust/supercharger holes -Paint -Pull out engine and loom -Clean engine -Sort loom -Sort out springs and shocks (give touge his back) -Brakes -Oils and fluids -Fit interior -Wof and reg -Drive mountain road Two weeks work?

Was going to buy those wheels, would have if they were both 7's or 7.5 As for tyres I would go toyo t1r 195/45

sw20 engine and box? how hard is it to do? same driveshafts? mounting points?

Apologies for disgusting photoshop. the darker would help not painting the engine bay and door jams

http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/RTG-Desktops-3.jpg

not an expert by any means, ​but i would be looking at a single piece driveshaft, as there is less parts to break with the 350hp. and only one driveshaft loop as k-trips said ^

JAde/gun metal grey like this sort of Or original colours, otherwise people won't recognise it haha.

woohoo it has started!

i thought they were 1410mm. because my volvo one is 1390mm?? not that the 20mm really matters to much.

You had to ask. Haha. Was holding of posting anything about the rear till I knew what was happening. The max coilovers come with a big disc that you weld into the stock position at the top. This helps spread the load a little. But I always knew they wouldn't fit in the rear. Due to the fat volvo brakes being in the way. It was going to work if I stood the coilovers up so they were not leaning over at any angle and moved the top mounting hole out an inch or so. But all the metal is so thin up there. I didn't want to risk it. So over the next few weekends. I will be cutting up the boot and welding in 3mm and 5mm metal plate, that will come up off the chassis. So I would recomend to avoid rear coilover setups. If you aren't up to the extra work. And I am not sure how the cert man would react if you had the weight of the coilover in the shock mount.

Wish I had of stuck with coilovers with separate shock and spring for the rear. Going to be a mission trying to fit my rear coilovers. And those headers are looking so nice! Might have to get some made for the 3sge eventually.

wondering if it would be better to do it to the inner bushings? that way you wouldn't lose lowness. or would this upset the alignment of something else? also i cant imagine adjusting the camber on the back would make the CV joints to happy. or then again may fix the problem of always smashing CV's in x7's???