ta63-1uzze

what comes first ? the amp shutting of then the spike because to me it really sounds like the amp is hitting thermal overload , and the spike is because the current draw suddenly stops when the amp turns off instead of frying itself . you need to check that the amp is not overheating .

lots done so far, re arranged the dissy to the correct orientation and outputs (thanks rip for the advice you were spot on ) got radiator poked and pressure tested. got engine in the hole got all the little bits in the engine bay plugged/bunged all the little holes in the firewall used a steering rack boot to makeshift firewall grommet plug thingy for the main wiring loom( i made a huge hole many years ago to remove the loom stupid me but at the time i didn't know it was meant to come out the other way ) but the rack boot worked amazingly well (used a stretchy boot) i still have a sticky caliper so sort out and the outer guard edge is scrubbing the tire so i cant get full lock , and its not even wound down to the lowest setting, some say i could just wind it up for the clearance but we all know that's not going to happen!! hahahaha so today i am going to roll it outside and water test all the seals, generally clean it cause its been in the garage for over a decade then if all is good carpet can go in , and then its on to brakes wheel alignment and carb tuning . i haven't run it up yet because i need to check the carb over first make sure its not full of shit yay !!

I have in the past managed to use a die grinder with a long carbide bit in the chuck, and take the heads off and then smash them through with a long bit of steel from the top .

ah , sheeezzzzzz , i missed that , silly me . will have a look tomorrow when i get a chance. thanks for the heads up good spotting : P im not running vacuum to the vacuum canister as side draft wont supply a smooth vacuum supply :due to each runner not being connected so this makes a pulse rather than a smooth supply (so i have been told) . but that's OK im not to bothered , the canister is probably got holes in it anyway , its so old and has been waiting for so long for me to get of my ass and use it .

choice , I searched for ages only to come up with nothing . ,so thanks heaps ,that has made my day, now I can get it tested and be sure I'm not going to kill my engine prematurely. now to dig up the old dissy so I can compare the 2 . hopefully they aren't to indifferent

my god it is scary to look at, its so much like the mini , even the bulkhead is designed in the same way . i love the front, the headlight , cheeky smile, just all looks cool : )

another common conversion is using the honda dissy, they have coil inside so its even less clutter in the engine bay , less one ignition lead . but they are a bit more bulky . i don't know much about it to be honest. i dont know how close the ignition curve is either , and its harder and harder to get dissys tested now'er days because the test bench gear is getting long in the tooth. i would love to get a bit more into the older tech , its fascinating to learn about , its just hard to find people who know about it or have functioning tester because its just not how we do things any more. if anyone knows a shop that still spins up dissys i would love to know, i have a few that i want to test to find out the curve and so i can legitimately test the modifications i have done to the Nissan one

ah so many moons ago i found this whilst looking at ditching the points/condenser (rain was in issue when driving on the motorway) . this is going back a few years so it is stretching my memory a little. this is the link that i found many years ago which set me on my ignition discovery http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11178 so the short story is nice fat spark , no spark scatter at higher rpm's , an actual sealing cap to keep the water out . and no more constant points/condenser s servicing. the regular addition of electronic ignition normally still uses the old worn out advance plate/weights/springs etc . this conversion is just newer and swap able with just light modification , so its just easier and supposedly better than adding electronic setup . i found it took me about ten mins to cut the dissy down to fit the drive dog and mount , and about 15 to modify the advance plate, but i haven't tested it out thoroughly yet . i have had it running and it works but i have not driven on it yet as i found oil leak and had gearbox issues. since then programmable ignition has come out, but at a few hundy bucks i think they are an expensive way to go, not to undermine the quality or benefits they are still very good , but as you can see from the link this conversion is old as , i bought the dissy like ten years ago, and only now in the last 6 months i have done the work and got it in and fitted and running. i am waiting on fuel pump hose and spacer plate then its full steam ahead . so so close now i cant wait !

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49140-ta63-1uzzes1972-mini-clubman-discussion/ talking turkey here

mini mini mini mini mini mini mini mini mini mini mini mini Thanks

so this is my first car . as a little kid I always loved minis, and vowed to own one when i was old enough . I got this when I was 15 , its a 1972 clubman, 1000cc , 10 wide wheels, lowered, had tints, exhaust, was great fun to drive. lots has happened since then, its changed color and just about everything else has also changed. I have taken the last year off working on the carina to get this thing finished, its been in the garage in bits for about 14 years. no real reason other then me lacking the know how/ability/direction/cash . so I had a burst of inspiration and with a healthy wad of cash in hand I commenced with a ground up rebuild . this is what it looked like over 15 years ago when I first bought it . sadly i got hit by a car and it was damaged too much to repair, so i set out to find another shell . lots of stuff has happened since then and this is what it currently looks like made a dash board and painted it black. put some tweeters , tiny tach and a radio . much nicer than what i originally had got some sweet 4 pot metro brakes, did some magic on them and made them mini/metro to keep the geometry correct. but now the 10s no longer fit over the brakes : ( so new wheels and tires . just need to spin up some spacers for the back to get the track right . so i painted the engine bay, that means the engine needed to look as good as the fast bits inside . so its currently a 1330cc , mild cam, 40mm delauto side draft. modified a nissan pulsar dissy to fit mini . (electronic ignition!!!) fitted a alt instead of a generator !! , new paint so it doesn't look like a pile of shit. i had to do a gearbox rebuild so it made sense to paint it up whilst it was all in bits. so made a nice and silly exhaust, looks funny, hope its not too loud as i plan to make this my daily driver among other things that i haven't taken any pictures of but i have done are : made new seat mounts and retro fitted honda prelude front seats, trimmed and finished boot with a 12 inch sub and amp ,new glass seals, re sealed the under side , completely overhauled and replaced suspension joints bushes cones, new brake system , shit what else, i have pretty much just checked/replaced/ overhauled everything . in no particular order at all . if you have seen my other build thread you know that i cant stay on track on one thing for too long. but its almost done, and i look forward to learning how to tune up side draft and hopefully having a cool little mini for my daily driver : ) take that rego costs!!! more pictures to come soon. should have the engine in the hole this week once i get my fuel pump sorted

gearboxes that whine and crunch gears are screaming out for repair, if nothing is done of course its going to shit its self. if its making a "funny" sound its not going to get better or last like that for ever. that being said, new bearing and synchromesh units you might be away laughing once again . I have repaired many gearboxes in my time, kits can be had from reputable sellers on ebay for good prices . what is currently happening with it? it may still be savable . are you game for trying a gearbox rebuild? kits will be readily available , they are very common .

thanks Spencer , now i have something to go on, i wasn't keen on using an enamel after seeing the results of the previous engine build ,and how it didn't stand up to the test of time. i know very little about paint, applying is the bit i find easy, finding good paint system with technical data is the hard bit. so many times i have wasted time with shitty paint from miter ten and bunnings with vague misleading instructions , only to be let down when it washes off or doesn't last . i have found 2 places so far that are very close so i will hit them up tomorrow , hopefully i can get some in time for the weekend . thanks, greatly appreciated : )

please can someone help me out. I am having some trouble in choosing a paint system to paint up my tinny we little mini engine and gearbox. i have been to 3 different paint suppliers, none of them had any idea . i am shocked to be honest. I have wasted so much time and its really winding me up. the engine is completely stripped clean bare,i paint stripped it , then wire wheeled the bits it didn't lift off , and then washed down with water/neutralized the stripper , dried it out, then washes it down with meths so its nice and clean and oil free. the engine is cast iron. and the box is aluminum . so , i have a compressor with air dryer system, a ok spray gun, i can paint, and follow instructions , I'm competent and have had allot of success in the past painting . but what i lack is the knowledge about paint ie: what is best for what etc. so i don't know what kind of paint to use in this situation, i want it to be tough, as its going to get hot and have to deal with petrol/oil/ engine degreaser, and it needs to be strong to resist chipping off from being knocked around a wee bit on the install . etc. . . If anyone can recommend me a person/place to get a good paint system from that would be great. (am in Auckland). so far all the reps and counter staff i have had to deal with have been absolutely no help at all. even to the point were they tell me they cant supply me paint cause they don't know what to supply!! i am not keen on using any spray can stuff, purely because ever time i have painted anything from a spray can its turned out shit or wipes of with cleaning solutions, this is why i invested in some painting gear so i can do the job properly. any help from you paint gurus would be greatly appreciated. thanks : )

hay man, it’s no trouble ay, this is why we are all here, to help and to be helped. it’s an older engine, they have far more blow by than a newer fresh built engine with new technology and tighter tolerances ,so when they can’t breathe the pressure is much higher and it will find its way out through the easiest way, ie the crank seal . I wouldn’t do the seal just yet, clean it down with any white spirits, get a spray can and try get into the bell housing if you can. Waste the shit out of it until its dripping nice and clean. Let it dry up and if it’s still dripping oil after a week or so then you know that it’s stuffed and to do the seal. Otherwise you might be doing allot of work for nothing . Soldier on man. Keep the old-school on the road !

don't stick any kind of stop leak in it, that shit is just for emergency, that shit does more harm than good. unplug the ventilation system! and get a catch tank, if you plug up the ventilation your pressurizing the engine via blow by from the rings (normal operation) the pressure is forcing the oil past the seal .this is your problem right here.

what is the engine? its not a 4JX1 by any chance? is your coolant over flowing? or is there any overflow from the fuel tank?

how much corrosion went up the wires? sometimes cleaning just the terminals alone isn't enough as its tracked up the wire its self where you cant see it . if there is to high a resistance in the terminals still it will look just like a bung alt . put a good charged battery in it and flick your mm onto volts and start testing for voltage across too parts of the same circuit, ie the battery + post to the cable itself , this is testing the terminal for lost voltage this is called a volt drop test and is the most effective why to quickly isolate a fault, you can test the negative post to the engine block,earth strap mount , the positive to the back of the alt and fuse box feed wire . its very fast and will give you a quick indicator where the power is being lost . then you have something to look for on a known faulty circuit have a google or you tube "volt drop test" , the reason its the best way to find a fault is because the system is under load, so you get real time tangible information that directly relates to the fault, so if you find voltage and its a few volts you can unplug connectors and fuses and see if the volt drop diminishes thus leading you to the faulty circuit. by the sounds of this fault i would be looking at the earth and positive feeds , sounds like they will be dirty as fuck

i think its a great idea if that is the look you want to go with . they can look amazing if you do a nice job of it . i cant see it being hard at all to mill them into flanges and throw some holes around the edges. . all being that there is enough material and you can make a sufficient locating ring for the barrel itself here are some successful attempts http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5995809-Custom-1-piece-wheels-to-2-3-piece https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Indywidual-wheel&newwindow=1&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Mhw2VcuxO-i4mAW77oHwCg&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1670&bih=772

I was a mechanic for 15 years ,I was also an avi for quite a few of them years, i have worked on trucks cars and bikes , I have done truck wheel alignments which require bending the front beam . i know all about what you can and cant do . but i also know the law . i had to learn all the dos and don'ts and the reasons why and now I am an apprentice tool maker , so I am currently studying metallurgical science. in fact metallurgical science is its own entire trade. inspecting metals and why they have failed, for insurance etc. there is so much to it, i could talk ages about it, its fascinating. . . but the depth of this argument is to wide to sum it up with broad statements and comparing a solid truck front beam suspension or a ford I beam to a tinny Toyota steering arm is not a debatably angle that I would like to take, its silly, and i don't have to time to point out why its not worth trying to argue about you just cant fuck with cast , that is the law. this is it. now I know that it can be done, we do a lot of things in industry that is safe and fine . we test things and there are procedures created from metallurgical science , this is how we came up with the techniques . but at the end of the day this is a car forum , someone needed some solid advice so lets give them the right advice .

I knew this would turn to shit. as soon as I said it shouldn't be done , I knew all the people would find some shit to argue with , make a big deal about it . turn it into a argument of what can and cant be done. blar blar blar but its the law its the law because you have to cater for dumb fucks who kill people from being ignorant and stupid . AND DOING IT WRONG! something you may have over looked , not everyone knows "how hot to make it" I didn't make the law, but its there and that is it. look at certifiers and the hoops you have to jump through to get a cert. they wont touch cast/heated/welded/fucked with. this guy asked for some help , you guys were giving him bad advice , so I said something. simple as that.

ok I've been here with some mates on a club k cruse . they main man Daz is a fairly likable character hahahaha , try them, www.oldscoolautos.co.nz I don't know a hell of a lot about k as all my shit is t stuff .so I'm not sure about the interchangeability of specific k series gear , but I do know these guys have lots of k stuff and they are a good bunch of cunts : )

yeah that's why I chimed in. to be honest I would look at maybe t3, I believe they make after market parts for steering at good prices, im not sure if they will fit your car though . and old skool autos sells lots of k stuff too. they are in palmy and have lots of the old school parts in stock so there is a couple options for you that may help , im sure someone on here will be able to help you out probably too. : )

lol really , this is some sort of justification to repairing a cast steering components ??? is your axel directing the vehicle? is your axel about 130mm long and bent 10mm??? common , just think about it its really a simple thing to grasp here, look at all the things that could go wrong how many people could be killed. just if this one thing fails from a repair that you cant be sure is a good solid repair . its not illegal cause the there is a 0.5% chance that it would fail, its illegal cause you don't know if the repair has been done successfully, and its been proven time and time again that it can fail . this isn't something you can measure with a tape measure or tools from home. you haven't got any of the NDT testing or x ray inspection , you have a willy nilly "don't heat it up to much" type of answer . this shouldn't even be an argument , its ridiculous . , go have a Google , go do some research of metallurgical science, find out for your self why its illegal . we as a car community shouldn't be condoning bad practice, we are here to inform and help each other . Im not going to argue about this any more. I feel what I have said should be enough for anyone to grasp the seriousness of this topic. don't muck around with cast steering stuff its just not worth it. just throw it in the bin and get a new one.

look at all the work you have done to your car, think about the implications of your steering braking whilst going somewhere, or if you are on the motorway ? look at the all the work you have done going down the toilet if it does go wrong,. what happens if you take out a car full of people from crossing the center line? im not going to argue about the strength of cast components, before or after being bent then heated and straightened, or how you can have success at straightening it . because there is no NDT testing or any way to prove that you are right . this stuff can fail that is why its not meant to be done . this is a proven fact . this is why its law. its to keep everyone safe cause no one can be sure the repair is sound . don't be ignorant and say its safe , its illegal to repair for a reason the point is if it goes wrong and you have tried to repair it , then its your fault. is all your work worth a easy replacement part? or someone's lives ? just think about it, its not a expensive part to replace