mikey

You got me. I do indeed piss around. It's even pissing me off! I've come up with a new plan though. Instead of trying to work on the car during the weekend, which never eventuates. I'm gonna do late nights after work starting next week. Hopefully that mean shit'll start happening.

You guys are the best! Fresh air system isn't really an option because money, but I figure a mask will be fine for the home painter with regular filter changes. Snoozin, I'll send you a PM about quote.

Some other happenings: Crack! Somone's brazed it before so will have to remove that. Note solder too. Liddle bit a rust in sill, but not as bad as I thought. There's no rust on the inner skin. Should be an easy fix. Lorra crud but no real rust: Euron8 did a sweet job of welding my shizz Aaaaaaaand, these are some superfly photos Snoozin took for motivations. Fuck I love these photos. What a legend.

Yeah but nah. Not legal as hot rod plates unless you wanna run these as well as the normal sized plate, which is gay.

What Full face 3M mask is OK to use with isocyanates? This? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... G281LQ4Dgl

Words can't express my keenness for this thing. Totally down with Oldschool cars only, it'll give me something to aim for!

Yaaaaw!! Looking sweet! I've never liked iron Maiden so much!

Actually, a scan with one or two dimensions is probably the easiest way to do this. Saves all the measurements, and maddening requests! ha ha

Thought I'd have a quick bash at it this morning. I've filled in some of the measurements, they don't all add up, which is not really surprising. Some checks against the drawing would be a good idea. Also the large hole is only positioned by eye. As far as I could tell there were no measurements to help with locating it? Even a measurement from the center of each orbiting hole to the edge of the big one would help. Same for the meat around the perimiter, some measurements from the holes to the outer edge would help. thing.dxf * edit * updated drawings

I've just come from pick a part. Most cars there are FWD and don't really have anything useful. Subarus have double uni-joints which is not what I'm after. Fords have unis with shafts attached, which I guess _could_ work... hmmm. Next time I'll take some spanners. I still need the rose joints with inner bearing. FPP probably have them.

Yeah, the engine is super tall. Anyone know where in Auckland I can get steering uni's and rose joint carrier bearings?

Tee hee! I love how things are actually working how we planned! The mounts would've meant I'd have to run a 20mm isolator which would've left me no breathing room, so I ended out cutting 10mm from the bottom and tacking them back up. Which gives me a lot more room for adjustment. Everything else looks pretty sweet. Even the new x-member seems to have stretched 1-2mm to bridge the frame rails perfectly! Ha ha. The sump is about 15mm higher than the new x-member, which I guess is a good thing. I have no idea what my ground clearance will be, probably about 70mm. Eeeeeek!

Euron8 made me this sweet bend and tacked up my mounts. Everything came out minty. The isolators are 35mm x 70mm from a Ford something. I had to notch the back of the pipe to clear the TC mounts. And this is how everything sits. Shed loads of room up front! This morning I whittled up the g-box mount. The two cut-outs are for twin 2.5" exhausts. The hole in the middle is for the one bolt which goes through the stock isolator. Some baboon (not me!) broke off some casing around the starter so I'll get this cut to fill the void. That's about it. I'll be stoked once the mounts are permanently in the car! But that feels a way off. I've got some clearance issues with the headers which I've started to cut up so I can put Humpty Dumpty back together again but with more clearance. Those photos are too scary/embarrassing to publish. I think I'll mock them up and take them to TTT Automotive to TIG. Hopefully they don't laugh out loud! I'm also gonna have to add another uni and hanger bearing to my steering shaft so I can clear everything more comfortably. I don't know what's available for this so I guess I'll have a poke around Pick-A-Part.

I'm pretty sure it was Duplicolor rattle can grey. I _might_ still have a can sitting at home I can check. Nah, I didn't really think of that. That's probably a much easier option than the witchcraft I've come up with! It doesn't appeal to the nerd within thou.

The seam sealer failed at sealing the tank. But JB weld worked a treat. Yay. On to the next leaky thing! I replaced the Bing carb with a Dellorto PHBG. Which is frrcken sweet compared to the leaky old one. Made up some new cables for the choke/throttle. Did a skid!!! Nah! Not really, this thing is the opposite of skids. But words can't describe how good it feels to have a scooter that doesn't leak two-stroke everywhere I park it! Ha ha. This is the dynamo controller/regulator I hooked up Also has new coil (thanks 10speed) and new battery. Next things on the list is new tire and fashion some hold down springs for the front brakes. It's a gamble every time I use the front brakes at the moment; one in five times the shoes wont be parallel with the drum and the front wheel locks up, and front springs bottom-out and go BANG!!. It's a terrifyingly exciting senario... This is the other thing I'm working on. Digital ignition with programmable advance. I'm using a BIP373 ignition driver, PIC16F628 micro and hall-effect sensor. I've _almost_ got it working! I've been battling to fire the coil without destroying transistors/micros. This is about the 4th revision of the ignition circuit. Anyhoo, shouldn't be too far off I reckon! Main motivation for this is because points for this thing are impossible to get these days and my current ones are super fucked. It's rideable (I rode it to work today) but you can tell the timing is all over the show!

No way!? I didn't know you could do that. So literally _no_ sanding the top coat of primer? Is it important to wet-on-wet, or can you let the top coat of primer dry first?

I used this on my scooter. Seemed very good and has proven to be tough. But I'm the opposite of a paint expert.

Sooo been here before. Jbweld. Can get it at jaycar.

Yaaaay! Things are happening!

Ohhh yes! I think that's probably a fair trade for sectioned struts. Ha.

Oh yeah, I saw that too. I'm 50/50 on it. I reckon it's super expensive. But that's what you get it seems: http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=48009 ... =1&ct=link For now I'm gonna stick with the 4 pinion r180 and see how we go. Some people reckon they're good for over 350hp. And I'm not gonna drag it. The thing that put me off the r200 is price; I'd need to get CV half-shafts, custom made hub flanges, the diff itself, moustache bar and transverse link. The half shafts would probably be 300zx ones, but I'd need to shorten the splined shaft so they don't bottom out. All that would cost shed loads. I suppose I could just use uni half shafts from a 280z as a cheaper option. But if I were to do it I'd rather go to CVs while-im-at-it. And I doubt they'd be much cheaper anyhow based on pricing for the mustache bar and LSD prices! Damn money.

Bro, if you want the flanges CAD'd up it's a piece of piss for me to do, esp if you got something to copy (old manifold or gasket). Seriously. You should've mentioned it to me last night. We can have a yarn about mounts too. It's easy as to rejig my design to work with different engines. Hit me up.

My camber plates have already been installed and certed. In the rear the maximum camber I can dial in is -2 degrees. I can't go any more positive than this without basically re-doing it. I'll be putting my car through the certing process again once the new engine is running. When I do, am I exempt from the new manufacturer +/- 5 rule since the modification was certed before the new rule? Sorry if this has already been asked.

Arrrgh. Fuck shit. That sucks man.

I got some stuff back from laser-cutting. These bits make up one mount. Only cost 60 bucks man! Euron8 has taken them and some other bits n bobs along with some very vague/confusing instructions and will weld 'em up for me. So in the meantime I've been working on the fuel system. Got a Pulsar tank from pick-a-fart for $50 and transferred over the access panel. It comes with nice electrical connectors and stuff. The tank's getting all the pin holes soldered up at a radiator shop. I'm gonna use the baffle tank in lovely pink from the same tank. Happily it accepts my fuel pump with open arms. One thing that confuses me a little about the baffle is it seems quite tricky for fuel to get inside. There's only one wee hole on the top and the sides are quite tall. There are little seams around the place that'll let fuel in though. I'm sure they know what they're doing... This is the caddy it clips on to. Drilled out the spot welds and welded it to the bottom of my tank. It's surprisingingly tricky to weld blind inside a tank through an access hole not much bigger than your arm. Thankfully no one will see those welds. Then I bent up some 3/8's fuel line. More p-clips to come but this is the setup.