Shandangles

what about getting springs made and adjustable konis or something and keeping the stock setup. wont be height adjustable tho

/ dont bother, large ish expense for sfa gain. 2tg or 4age ftw

Because the guys that write the laws are all hot rod guys, so are out for themselves..

sweet progress man. Could try get the grease caps polished to match the wheels??

i know the guys a Lowes in chch (make alloy fuel tanker trailers) use a spool type alloy welder and the welds are amazing. Prob worth like $20k tho

gay news on the camber. IIRC these run the gay trailing setup, which cam be made camber adjustable by fitting cam lobe style bolts on one of the front mounts for the trailing arm, One does camber and one does toe from memory. kinda like this http://e30m3project.com/e30m3performanc ... /index.htm

just take the tank out. its not hard 1/2 hour to an hour max. but if you cant do that you are going to have to pay someone to do it, which will probably cost you $200 just to remove and re install the tank. thus blowing your estimate out of the water instantly. you will NEVER get the car 100% rust free, 80s toyotas were factory fitted with rust, even if you cant see it, its there. putting a bandaid on a stab wound really. that being said get everything you can see done PROPERLY, it will probably be good for another 10+ years. But it wont be cheap for a good job. Listen to DANGER, he knows what he is on about.

1 : if the company is elite, dont expect much, biggest bunch of useless wankers iv delt with. 2 : how is sticker bombing anything but "gay" 3 : iv yet to hear a valid argument that the JDM wheels are worth it, bar the "they are real/gotta have JDM/the others are just copies etcetc" Id much rather pay $250 a wheel for a 15x9 -10 that is readily available / replaceable and from any more that 5m away looks exactly like the original. Dont get me wrong tho if i could get a 15x9-10 for the price of a new set of rotas etc id pick the "real" one every time, but in reality that will never happen.

might be some overseas model, they have ke55s in aus which as far as i can tell look likefacelift ke30s

between the carb and manifold, manifold and head

they have 40w70 engine oil in perth repcos, look for that lol

Quoted for truth...... God i hate the whole "stance/hella flush" bullshit. Mate, i can see your wheels are sweet i dont need to be told its hella flush/stanced , especially when its on a gay as aids windom. The whole "stance" thing is almost as gay as stickerbombing...

^ can get pretty much all of the 15x8 rip off wheels in like +20 offset too man, and 0 offset bearly hang out

^ thank fuck, was thinking you were going for the record of following the most clapped out gay fads on one car. 10 points for removing gay, gay stickers oh and +1 for just getting rip off wheels, "JDM YO" wheels are such a rip imo

use the bumper as a seat??

1, its Hachiroku (86 in japanese) 2, this is actually a HachiGo (85 in japanese) 3, loving the disjointedness bairdy lol

holy headers batman.

prob wrong but i have always thought restrictors slowed the flow of the oil but the pressure stayed the same. i dont see how making the hole smaller reduces pressure, if anything it increases it. Think of putting your finger over the end of a hose, more pressure but way less flow.

HAHA hotties and eagers boe lol

i know they work with a 264mm EK civic disc

^ pinto = worst idea ever..... And yeah puff of smoke on start up is valve stem seals, not a major, nothing to stress about. they can be done in place so dont have to take the head off

Hah! ha yeah, yeah basics are sweet. will look into fuel pump. cheers

Hey all, so my flatmates got a 94 Camry with a 5SFE and AUTO box. yesterday it started to do really weird things when under load above 60kph. It felt like we all of a sudden hooked 10 Ton on the back of the car, wouldnt rev etc, then would come right for a minute. I checked the codes, came up 31 which going by my research is MAP sensor, so we tracked one down and cleared the codes, and it was fine for about an hour driving, now itd doing the same thing but worse. checked the codes and its constantly flashing soi assume thats fine?? any ideas?? cheers

^ ah yes i did, i always undo / tighten the center bolt in the strut top while the car is on the ground. its about impossible to take it off out of the car without a rattle gun

the standard toyota shocks are filled with oil and magic stuff, to replace you have to remove the whole strut, take the spring, undo the the bit nut ontop of thestrut tube, and remove the magic bits. go to repco, bnt, autoligh etc and get a pair of replacement shocks as k-trips said. the replacement shocks are a sealed unit and slip inside the strut tube. do the opposite of the removal and your sorted.