azzurro

yes

You could test before you buy a regulator with vice grips or hoseclamps or a kinks and see if the symtoms change?

Yep a regulator, or better yet a fuel pump that provides the correct pressure (so your not wasting money by restricting your fancy new pump). I think webers like no more than 4 psi. They do like volume, but not under pressure. Not a problem ive actually had to resolve myself, just been reading up on carbies a lot lately and I read that high pressure leccy fuel pumps (esp those designed for FI) are often an overlooked cause of problems on carburetted fuel systems. Sometimes more is not always better.

unsure on SUs but webers/dellortos like to have a restrictor to limit the incoming fuel pressure otherwise the needle valves cant shut off leading to just as many problems as a weak supply. so, your electric fuel pump could be providing too much fuel pressure to the carbs, so your bogging could be flooding?

thats just cheating!

Went and visited a dude off my Fiat forum the other night, and talked some crap, checked out his 2x 131R Super Mirafioris (hes in the middle of putting Thema turbo engine in one) and also picked this arrangement up: looks a bit crummy on top, but thats just 10 years of garage dust, as underneath and inside they looked like this: Chucked the rams on the the "lathe" And spent a couple of cold nights inside by the heater taking them apart to check the jetting etc, and reassembled this morning after a rinse with some fuel and a blow through with some air. Very happy, they are in such good condition and have new gaskets, isolators and diaphrams and stuff all round from a refurb by the PO before 131R who hardly ran them as they leaked from not being nipped up. They are also very purdy. Cant wait for some DOOOORRRRT! Only possible problem is they are DHLA G (the dreaded 'Emissions' ones from a later model 1.8 Alfa) that still have most of the original jets and emulsions tubes with a couple of pretty minor (?! famous last words?) changes having been made (smaller needle valve and auxilliary venturis only) to try to weaken them a bit (to suit a 1400 cosworth? :dontknow: ) so thats hopefully Ok , as most problems with these type seem to be related to them being 'tuned' like the Universal Performance types, which messes them up as they have a different operating principle to the performance ones all together. They apprently dont seem to like 'hot' cams either, so should be ok on my basically stock 1608. I doubt they wouldnt be any worse than my current carburettor and they look 10x better too. I will also need to sort a linkage to connect them up to the throttle, but i cant really figure out how it might work as the rotation is 'backwards', pushing away from the cambox down between the carbs from about 2 o'clock to about 7 o'clock, or essentially requireing a pull from back underneath the manifold. They also came with a 125T manifold that 131R had modified himself, and the difference is pretty stark to my unmodified one with the big restriction from the block mounted dizzy scollop: Looking down #1 runner, OEM on top, modified below From above, OEM on top, modified below Nice Job! Hopefully my skinny X-19 dizzy that ive got fitted will clear the reduced scollop which was designed for the big OEM one, or i can just pop them on with the unmodified manifold

cheers man, dunno what your worried about - you can get new clips! These worked out as good as i could have hoped, except the sill holes are not properly plugged. i got some rubber blanking grommet things but the clip wires are so fat they couldnt fit as well. Might blob some silicone poop in there or something. I got the mirror with a forum load of boot rubbers from Spain (its a SEAT parts ebay seller), its only a cheapie and probalby not worth shipping by itself. I found it hard to find a good one to fit becuase of the 45deg door top where they mount - most generic ones are designed to be flat or vertical and dont have enough ajustment to look right . I have a few other mirrors i collected too will put a pic up next time i go to the lock up.

finally fitted the last bit of trim to the car post refurbishment - the sill trim. When i bought the car these were long gone to the extent that the holes had been bogged over. I managed to score these trims from MF131 who had got them off old blue for his 125 racer project, but they were dead weight so were not required. However ive been searching for the factory plastic clips: ever since and as far as i can tell they are NLA, so I took a punt on these, being 1 3/4" wire spring clips: http://www.rarespares.net.au/rsnz/Produ ... oduct=2347 I knew they were too big, (trim is ~1 1/2" wide) but as they are metal i thought i could make them work. They turned up yesterday, and so last night a lot of pissing about with pliers ensued, but by the 16th one i had it down: As supplied (bottom) vs customised (top) fitment check (i cleaned and polished the trim before fitting and got rid of the worst bends): and on: I had to put a small SS screw in each end just to hold them on secure and as they were a bit bent + my wonky panels, but im stoked. Covers up the row of 8 holes in the sill and you can't have too much bling on a 125. They also stick out a bit more than i imagined (like side skirts almost) and so seem to square off the car nicely and balance the chrome up top. I also changed the air correction jets (150's, which were smaller than the 170 and 180 in there) and emulsion tubes (F61's which were the same as before but i think the ones i originally installed had been drilled out, hence the fluting?!) so carb is now to 132 1800 GLS spec (rather than 1600 GL), and car idles a lot slower on the previous settings (which is a good sign) but still stumbles on throttle a bit. :/ However, going to see a guy tomorrow about some twin sideys and electronic ignition

i know! I have chucked your spring compressors in the boot to return them at the last two meets. damn weather - co-driver & back seat driver are unkeen on shakedown runs in the dark in the rain on the mway (me too!) will do around thursday? this week on my way to see the carbs and stuff, as its looking non rainy then

aw shucks, you are have just got a lead on some twin dellorto sideys and also some FIAT electronic ignition systems & a 5 speed box so i shall delay placing my crummy points related ignition consumables order till ive gone to see the treasure/crap pile

haha told ya! looking real good you can adjust (ie gain) front camber by removing the shims on the upper wishbone mounts. depending on the shims in there (Y or O type) you dont/may have to remove the spring again to get them out.

After rubbing the roof with the bikes a little bit yesterday, I decided to solve this problem by denting and scatching up the rear valance as I fitted the tow bar It mounts by going between the rear leaf spring shackle mount and the floor, and has an upper hole to attach to the bumper mount overrider bolt. So, as i had to remove the shackles anyway, I decided to move the spring mounting holes up for a bit of extra stiffness (less arc of movement as the leaf flexes) and a wee bit of extra lows. I also had to bend the tip of the exhaust down a bit to avoid any rattling on the towbar, but the SS tip covers the dirty cut and shut weld after all that messing about, this is what it looks like on. Its FUGLY! however, having fitted does mean i can bolt this abomination on: only bonus is that all that weight hanging way off the end + the shackle modifications also dragged the ass down a bit more: I think its gone down about another inch. The rear passenger side wheel was rubbing on the arch before (the one i replaced), so, i think ill try to pump it a bit with a scissor jack, + a ticle with the grinder as the new arch line is a bit wonky. It is (is it?) possible that the diff is off centre a bit too, by about an inch to the left (pass side) - only way i can think of to correct this would be by adding a panhard rod? I also want to replace the guibo and universal joints and engine mounts. There are quite a few creaks vibrations and moans from that general area. Anyway, after the drive yesterday, and a fettle today, I think I have a combination of rich running + weak spark (a viscious circle). So I swapped the idle cicuit jet back to the 50 size, and i have 2x 150 size air corrector jets to swap in after work one day this week, may also try putting the matching emulsion tubes back in as well? The corrector jets are a bit smaller than what is in there at the moment, which should hopefully address my rich running issues, which have been proven by my sparkies: After cleaning those, I also checked and closed the spark gap a bit, and ill order new plugs, as well as a new cap, rotor and condensor for my new dizzy as well, so hopefully it should be just purring soon. Im going to go get my overriders to put back on to see if they help to hide the tow bar a bit.

Got around to putting the freshly painted rims on the drivers side and went for a bike ride while its not raining, and the camera even worked this time too: the meshies are growing on me I will attempt to put the tow bar on tomorrow as the bikes scratch the roof

derp

keen as, and have convinced family to come along too (with promise of dad's shout for burger fuel), but weather dependent...

hanvt had much time for this lately, but I have used it in anger a couple of times, including picking up the mother-in-law in it. She was stoked Carb Issues - took the carb off and gave it another cleanout/change a few bits to try and fix the bog on accelleration, got a bit more greb out and changed the accelerator jet for another one that looked a bit cleaner. Have so far ended up with a larger (70 instead of std 50, or the 45 i tried) primary idle circuit jet, and seems to be going much better now without having to open up the secondary all the time. Still a bit missy on foot mash, but i think it is related to the accellerator pump circuit which is all cleaned out and has new diaphram but is supplied via a ball valve from the float chamber, which i think is a bit restricted with grot or a bung/rustly spring or whatever restricting the fuel supply to the pump - however this particular part cant be accessesed as its buried in the wall of the carby and held in with a blind drift so ill have to live with it now, or at least untill i get twin sideys no photos of all that, but there was a lot of this: Tow Bar - Tidy up. Will be used for taking bikes up the road to woodhill, rather than picking up parts cars Ive had the bikes on the roofies a couple of times now but they create a lot of drag and i dont really want to scatch the roof (again!). Also stupid camera battery wont hold a charge now so no photos of the car loaded up and in use or beyond my driveway, but here are some of the tow bar being renovated. rust converter doing its thing: paint doing its thing: Meshies Repaint - To make these a more viable fit, and before i bothered painting them, I needed to clearance for the wheel hanger bolts that help hold the rim on the hub while you struggle with the wheel bolts, but they also hold the factory 5mm spacers on and fix the brake rotors to the hub. Previously ive run these without and its dodgy x10. That done, then to the masking... I wanted to do them white but i didnt have any suitable white paint, so silver it was. 'Aluminium' Wattyl Killrust on with a brush FTW Again no exciting 'town and around' pictures to show off the new shoes but i think i still prefer the steelies, and I possibly even prefer the meshies in gold

if you do replace the door card(s) with alloy id be more than happy to re-card it for mine - the RR card is the only blue interior bit im missing - i like it better than the black 125T style interior, and it will be much better than my current brown/black temporary attempt. i also have a couple of rear bumpers (no front ones sorry) and all sorts of odd trims etc (inc a bunch of door card clips?) + doors, boots, glass, etc, if you need anything let me know - most is a bit crappy (best stuff is on the blue one) but might be better than nothing and its only getting rustier in my storage unit yep, rubbers were good but needed a new mylar strip - holden gemini/torana stuff is a match. i got mine from here: http://www.rarespares.net.au/rsnz/Produ ... oduct=K120

you would be best to find another car to cut sections from for most of those bits i reckon, but if they are common rust spots (?) then might be a fruitless search, then you would have to go with making your own. that rust is pretty bad tho so you surely will be able to find a wrecked one in better condition in those particular spots (ie top of spare wheel well? wtf?) or at least have much smaller patches to make to patch up your repar panels whats the worst that can happen? cut it out and start over?

thanks man, my one is not exactly mint either, but it is much better than before dont suppose you have a spare right rear blue door card? can swap for bumpers/trims if i have them...(and assuming you are in nz)

this is so awesome, was on my watchlist for while too. looks like all it needs is a bit of a tidy up, trims back on and some fresh rims/tyres... love the roofies

re woodgrain, looks pretty flat to me - try some formica sheeting, its <1mm thick and comes in all sorts of colours etc and you can cut it with scissors or drawer liner stuff from M10 or duraseal

that grey POR15 looks real good, with all your hard work your car is going to be very tidy, and should go well too! the colour made me think of this one: http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 156&page=1

if you planning on keeping it, cut that rusty thin lacey crap out and let some new steel in, otherwise youll be fixing up the scuttle panel/a-pillars AND redoing the windscreen next time but it will be even worse. rust converter is ok if there is some meat left but youve got holes already - it doesnt convert rust back into metal that used to be there. You might even be able to cut the rust out without going onto the visible part of the a-pillar? make some patches in the vice, just make sure you space your welding tacks out/take your time so you dont warp the pillar skin (pulling it in), and drill a couple holes for some plug welds on the inner itll be just like factory and last another 30 years, plus youll be able to put converter inside the A-pillar while your there. If youve got a flapdisc on your grinder you can do anything!

glad those nuts fit, at least they will come in handy for someone. wish i still had the beetle they were on, i kinda abondoned it after my gf rear ended someone at the bottom of whakapapa road due to brake fade, and my olds sold it when they sold their business where it was stored and i was too poor to not take the $, but asked to keep the 5 spoke EMPI rims and nuts. Rims are now lost too contessas looks good, roll as is, maybe with a polished lip?

cheers man, the work you are doing on your 'tina is definitly going to make it a real nice one. Bad luck with those heads! following on from VG's thread im looking for some (16!) of these: being rocker or sill trim clips, this one is missing the plastic pin that fits the hole in the sill these may be similar to later model ladas which maybe? have a wider sill trim like 2107 etc, as the earlier models 2101 have a 124 style round clip (part No; 2101-5003017) that just isnt big enough to hold all my bling, like this: