WhangareiKE70

On the subject of Raptor, Carcolors/Union Hardware have a special on atm for all of Nov/Dec:

I apologise for my absence, tbh I didn't realise that I had missed it until I came in from the shed about 9:30. Got on a roll and got distracted. 

12 hours ago, morkster said:

I sold that Jag.. I'm probly out now 

Thanks tho,

Always welcome regardless, I turn up in my 01 Lexus more often than not. But I understand it's a long way to travel from Dargaville.

@morkster

Sounds good to me? 

@gibbon @ruff kunt automotive @rb drifter @MACKAZ @cypressphil

9 hours ago, Abarth said:

Yeah it’s expensive right, I was just going to use the aerosol version which is still like $99 bucks. Looks like only Repco supply that version.  

Be worth checking around, as Union Hardware have it listed on Trademe, and I know Whangarei Paint Centre have it on the shelf, so should be available elsewhere for you. As long as they are a Upol supplier they should have it/be able to get it.  

If buying Raptor and you don't get some sort of hectic discount at Repco, I would recommend sourcing it elsewhere (Car Colours in North Shore if Auckland based, or Union Hardware in Wellington, they sell on TM and regularly do special deals). 

I did a price check recently as I can get it from Repco locally, 4L tintable is $429.90 at Union Hardware, $599 at Repco. Fairly significant difference, worth getting it shipped.  

On 15/10/2021 at 16:47, AllTorque said:

New flat deck utes usually get spacers/extensions for the wing mirrors.

Yes, that's the plan atm if the wing mirrors aren't acceptable as they are, getting some aluminium bar stock abd making some basic extensions for the ones I have. 

On 15/10/2021 at 16:47, AllTorque said:

The virm has just been updated to say cameras can be used in place of mirrors, but it would need to be on all the time the car is on, not just in reverse.

That would be a problem for me as i am using the screen that it would be displayed on as my dash cluster too so that's all good. 
It isn't a major anyway, I have the rear vision mirror, just thought it might tidy up the interior a bit to not have it, as it doesn't see a huge amount with the spare mounted to the headboard.

On 15/10/2021 at 18:00, cletus said:

Sorry I missed your first post

 

S/b vehicle requires one interior rear view mirror, and a drivers side outer mirror minimum

If an interior mirror is not effective due to body shape etc, then outer mirrors on both sides. 

They must be capable of doing the job of a mirror, so they have to be able to see what's behind you, not wobble around with vibrations or wind etc  

Haha all good, I appreciate it mate.

I will be running both door mirrors (and as above maybe spacing them out a bit). Will throw the rear vision mirror on as I do have it and it does provide a limited amount of rear vision, and if money allows before it goes in for cert I may run a second rear vision camera that can be on at all times to a rear vision mirror screen thing (like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/rear-view-cameras/listing/3303739906),

If I go for something like the above I get the added advantage of having a dashcam built in, and I can change the angle of the one connected to the dash screen to be more of a towing camera with the towball in view, and just have it on a switch.   

On 07/10/2021 at 08:05, WhangareiKE70 said:

Regarding Datsun 720 replica scratchbuilt (registered year 202x)

Rear vision mirror q, if I have a reversing camera, do I need an interior rear view mirror?

I have put on door mirrors too, and part of their rear vision is blocked by the tray, but this is fairly common on utes? You can still see down the side of the tray, but only on part of the mirror if this makes sense.
I am thinking of maybe making some blocks at some point to space them out a little bit, but in the meantime is this ok?

@cletus can I ask is this a cert or a wof issue? If it's a WOF issue, do you know who the WOF people on here are? 

Can I suggest we have this next week if we are able?

Also, as @bigfoot and I discussed at the last one, if we have an earlyish November meet then we can still have a December meet before the Xmas stuff starts.

So I propose Wed 3/11 and Wed 1/12 meets? Potentially even doing something more Summery for the November/December ones if the weather allows. 

13 hours ago, ThePog said:

I have been trying to convince him it would be cheaper to upgrade to y61 axles and steering box than to fix all that. He would get the big brakes and stronger axles etc.

Please stop, my wallet hurts every time Y61 axles are mentioned... let me live in denial a little longer. 

Regarding Datsun 720 replica scratchbuilt (registered year 202x)

Rear vision mirror q, if I have a reversing camera, do I need an interior rear view mirror?

I have put on door mirrors too, and part of their rear vision is blocked by the tray, but this is fairly common on utes? You can still see down the side of the tray, but only on part of the mirror if this makes sense.
I am thinking of maybe making some blocks at some point to space them out a little bit, but in the meantime is this ok?

@a.craw4d Yeah sorry there a few bits missing in those pics. It's basically one of these: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/vices-clamps-presses/listing/3289797513

You can see it on the pics of the link, but there's a bit of I think 10mm plate the width of the bender and about 80mm deep. Clamped down with G clamps.

Other than the mod to make it slide in the bench, mine has had a piece of angle stitch welded along the length of the folding part (the part that the handles slide into) as they aren't the strongest out of the box. Also updated the G clamps to some beefier ones as those little ones have shitty casting and break, but also need a spanner to tighten. Sometimes add a couple of those big jaw vice grip type things to clamp the middle better when folding harder stuff.

I've done up to 1.6mm in mine taking it easy and it does it fine.

Having bent a few things in it now with the bench mount mod, I am happy it works well I can cut the part of the feet off that sticks out the side haha 

On 02/10/2021 at 10:18, Adamw said:

@WhangareiKE70This is Adam from Link ECU.  Realdash will work with any of our ecu's.  For G4X you will need to use CAN rather than the direct USB connection that some of our older ECU's could do.  If you want to use the ipad then you will need a wifi CAN dongle.  The only supported one I know of for iOS at this time is the "OBDLink MX+".  Even though it just looks like a common cheap OBD2 dongle, this device can actually do proper generic bidirectional CAN comms.  Another common option for your type of application is a cheap Android headunit with a USB CAN dongle - then they turn on/off by themselves with ignition etc, rather than the ipad will probably need to be manually woken up and put to sleep every drive.  If you need any help setting it up, myself and quite a few other users on the Link forum know our way around realdash fairly well. 

Thanks Adam! Really appreciate you taking the time to respond here. An Android headunit may be a better idea from what I have read from yours and other replies, I want to keep it as simple as possible considering my very very limited knowledge in this particular area, and iOS seems to make things generally "harder" here.

I will make sure I have a good look through the Link Forum before I ask more questions. 

Sounds like you're a man with a plan. Fuck I love everything about this truck. 

Having the receiver hitch front and rear with cunningly planned wiring means a single winch can be used for recoveries in either direction, with the winch just set up on the cradle. Was something I thought about with my project but decided to just go with the more usual bumper mount as I had the space. 

On 24/09/2021 at 21:43, Adoom said:

I'm am not trying to be rude. I'm from IT, I tend to over explain sometimes.

My apologies for misinterpreting then. 

Can someone please confirm my concern that Realdash won't work with link G4X range? Once again not trying to be thick, just want someone with more understanding than me to have a look. 
http://realdash.net/support.php 
On there it says it supports "Link ECU- (Except G4X, which does not output serial stream)". 
I am just unsure what serial stream is and if there is any potential workaround or if it just means that this is a complete no go.

I genuinely don’t know if you are trying to be rude or if that’s just how it is coming across.  
Clearly, I made a mistake buying an Apple product for this, but that’s for the same reason I posted this topic asking for advice, I do not understand this stuff. 
I was of the incorrect impression that because the app was available for both platforms then it would work. Semi-expensive mistake, but such is life. 

From reading that list it doesn’t seem like any desirable ECUs are compatible with the Apple products.

In saying that, even the Android/Windows list says that the current Link G4X range is incompatible, and Hatltech isn’t listed either, so maybe the Realdash app isn’t suitable for me anyway.

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

Um. The post I was reading on the Link forum said the iOS version of RealDash doesn't support the Link ECU. AFAIK it's because Apple devices will only 'talk' to serial devices(the ECU) that are Apple certified.

Well that’s dumb. But I mean worst comes to worst I just bought myself a tablet. Then I have to get another something for dash use. 
On that thread, did they mention if any particular type of ECU was compatible with Apple products?

I think that you just can't use a GPS speedo, as long as the speedo input is a "proper" one? But I dunno really. 

So I bought an Ipad Mini 3 (will fit in the standard gauge space). Second hand but in really good nic as I bought it off a friend who has an Ipad hire company, it was his personal one for work so not ex-hire and he has upgraded. Added advantages of working with other Apple bits too, and being slightly older still has an aux port for the music controller idea. 

Bought a bunch of these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32964924123.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7d1a4c4dj9WVZp

1x Hi-beam, 1x Low beam, 2x indicator, 1x handbrake symbol, 1x 4wd symbol, 1x low fuel. That's all the important stuff I could think of? Anything obvious I have forgotten that isn't covered by RealDash? 

^^^This may actually be the route I go.

I like the idea that I may even be able to use this as a replacement for a headunit too (I only ever run Spotify on Bluetooth, and I am sure there will be a way to wire an external skip/pause button, as they exist on headphones?).

But also one thing I worry about is an almost $2000 piece of equipment (Link dash) becoming obsolete, but a few hundred dollar tablet isn't a big deal. 

10 hours ago, CUL8R said:

Just buy a 2m length of 50x50 or 65x65 RHS, along with some stubs. 

Wont even cost that much and look far neater. If you buy the right size RHS, you can push the stub into the RHS - almost a tight fit, plug weld it in and you're away.. 

You're forgetting the key point of this, being that I am aiming to make this for cheap. I want to know if the axle I have would work, which I am now fairly sure it will. I will put it together as is, then if I find it too heavy in future I can do the above.  

I say try again on the 29th. I am actually still a little sick and still wouldn't really feel comfortable hanging out in a social setting, given the current environment. Don't want to pass this thing on.  

12 hours ago, Muncie said:

Throw a jockey wheel on front and a Briggs motor under the deck to propel it around hooked up to the diff. Could ride it to dairy like a chariot.

Ooooh, that's giving me ideas, my section isn't really big enough to justify a ride-on lawnmower or a quad but it would be good to have something to be able to move stuff around the section on the trailer...