Valiant

Thanks. it wasn't overly hard looking back on it. In saying that If I did it again I'd do it a bit differently. I had to notch the subframe so the oil filter and pump would fit. Cut the front part of the trans tunnel and a bit of the fire wall. I've used stock manifolds swapped side for side to clear the steering box. the motor is offset to the left to clear the steering box. I don't know how you would get on with a tall deck (440 etc) they are an inch taller on both sides. I'm sure it could be done.

It's a pretty big machine that!

Thanks guys. I'm not %100 on the radiator notch. I think I'll cut it off again this weekend. Cheers Chris I might have to take up on that. Someone else on here should buy that Bristol, maybe some one with some land near Oxford?

Got plans to go already mate, you keen huh? Get that bike down and pump up the tyres!

I've spent a big weekend working on this. Work lent me a little gas set so I could notch my chassis to fit the motor further forward. One thing lead to another, I got a bit carried away with the torch and quite a lot got done. Rear mount for the gearbox. The sides of the chassis had been quite badly hacked about in the past. I also found out that these tended to crack their chassis around where they were notched from factory. I cut all the crap away, and welded some nice fresh steel in. Both sides are done but they look the same in a photo. Next up was to remount the motor. both sides look the same etc. Cut a couple of notches to fit the starter motor and bell housing And something I had been meaning to do for ages. Now the oil filter fits and is easy to change. Last of all some where to fit the radiator. I just about had to cut the front off the chassis which was a bit of a pity. The radiator is as wide as the outside edges of the chassis. It's too tall to sit on top of the chassis and fit the body work. Anyway after some cutting and a bit more welding it sits in there nicely. The side covers and grill will need a bit of a trim to fit.

Shit's getting out of hand!

That business with the axles is odd. I was worried about mine having had the holes welded up when I got my Anglia inspected the other week, I asked about them specifically. I was told it wasn't a problem That could change in the future.

Here it is back at the start again. Motor has been out, clutch is fitted, van box back together and fitted to the motor. It looks like it will sit the engine about 100mm further forward which is good and bad. Good point is the air intake should be a lot simpler to make. Bad point is I'll have to cut the front out of the chassis and trim the sides to clear the bell housing and starter motor. Big thanks to CUL8R/Chris for finding me a Datsun drive shaft. I've dismantled the UJs and put the input yoke on the rear flange. The rear piece is a home made flange welded to the splined part of the original yoke. I turned it down and made the flange but was having too much fun to take photos. Until next time.

welding the head and resurfacing it seems quite reasonable. The block though, how deep is the mark? It could possibly be machined away and reassembled with a copper spacer plate. Or not for massive compression and bad cam timing. Take it to an Engine Reconditioner, see what they think.

Hi Neil, that's some nice bikes you have there. I think the gold one is a Raleigh, maybe a NZ Fireball? It has Raleigh forks anyway. What size wheels does it have?

You can loosen those screws with a centre punch and a hammer if you have to. They have nothing to do with a wof so munt them if you have to.

Cliff Bond, Appco, or BnT.

What are the symptoms? There is a good chance it's not your Carb.

Back due to popular demand! I've been slowly spending time and money. New radiator purchased. Car ones just aren't the right shape and the little Honda ones are just too little. I measured up a friends Massey Ferguson TE20, it was spot on. I brought a new replacement one from the radiator shop. It will need it's inlet and outlets changed but that won't be a problem. Next up is a way to drive the hydraulic pump. I have a pump with a pulley, the pulley is a giant ugly thing as seen here. So I turned it down into a hub and redrilled a RB20 waterpump pulley to fit it. I don't know what the original pulley was mare out of, it was as hard as hell and took hours to turn down! To drive the pump it needs a pulley on the crank too, another RB20 gave up it's water pump pulley as did a Mazda b5. I turned up a hub to hold it all in the right place and a friend cut a key way in it for me. It's gone a bit rusty from sitting, nothing some scotchbright won't fix. Last of all. I had planned to drive this directly off the engine as the tractor has it's own gearbox. But. The more I have learned about them the more people I have come across saying they are too high geared standard with a motor that revs to 1800 ish rpm maximum. The common solution seems to be adapting a Ford Model T gearbox to them. I think that Datsun will rev to easily twice that of the original, I'm going to need an auxiliary gearbox. Luckily I have the Vanette box that came with the motor. It looks like it will be just about back to the start which is a bummer but hopefuly the result will be worth it.

I'd be tempted to sort out the vacuum hoses, take the cat out, put some fresh plugs in, tow start it, and see what happens.

Hmmm. Can you put a bend in the steering arms so they step up? Or make a spacer to sit under the arm to space the lower ball joint down? perhaps I could make suggestions on line that you have already thought of.

How much do you have to raise the tierod end Matt?

Sounds like it's working as it should. Make up an adapter to so you can get an idea the brake away torque with a torque wrench and go from there.

That does seem like a good price, I did bearings on a W50 recently and they cost a lot more than that from the local bearing suppliers. Even at trade. You'll be able to get a replacement gear through Toyota.

105speed is too much for me!

The regulations are getting tight huh. Keep up the good work, you're nearly there.

Hi Alex. The ram came from Trade me it's a specific log splitter ram. 3 to 4 inch bore is the ideal size for slpitters according to the guys at the hydraulic shop. It has a large spear so it retracts quicker. It's Chinese, the first one had scratched chrome and this one had poor welding that leaked. Chinese parts life I guess. The pump is a two stage one that I got from the hydraulic shop. It does high flow under low load and high pressure when it is loaded up.I can't remember what size it is. It works well, the equivalent is on TM for about half price. It has chomped through everything we have thrown at it so far.

Good save!

What becomes of the Starions?

Don't worry about it until it becomes a problem. You may not have to worry about it.