unhuman

You could try Rob at Racefab, however he usually has quite a waiting list.

Woops, forgot to leave my feedback. Josh was easy to deal with and his work was fantastic value.

Will also be keen for some paintwork in Dec.

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone here has had any experience with running those cheap GPS trackers that use a SIM card and are activated by sending text messages to them. Two weeks ago I brought one off the tard, the instructions came in chringish but a google search tells me it’s a TK101, looks like this: After only two weeks its already drained the battery to the point where the car won't start. Since it only happened this morning I haven't yet tested the battery / alternator etc, but as the battery is only 6 months old I'm suspecting the tracker is the prime suspect. Doing a google search on the subject does bring up some discussion on this, but the verdicts are mixed. Just wondering if anyone has some first-hand experience with these and/or recommended models to use. Apparently some models come with a sleep function that can reduce battery drain. As the one I have is only in my daily driver which I installed for testing purposes before I go about installing them in my project cars, I would like to get all the bugs sorted first. Cheers.

No it does work however it's a band aid fix, like using stop leak instead of actually fixing a leaking radiator. Better of just cleaning the lifters. Also I have heard horror stories of excessive sludge build up in Evos (Mitsi guys used it a lot 10 odd years ago) when used for extended periods of time. However now that we have a greater understanding of what causes the noisy lifter problems they either clean them or replace them with later model versions that solved the issues causing the noise.

Thanks, I'll check them out.

So appartently Chris no longer works at Firestone? Anyone know of a GC who works at a tyre store in Christchurch? I need to buy a set of 195/45R15's plus fitting to some 8" wide wheels. I don't want to lug them round to Tony's or what ever and for them to say yeah / na not doing that etc. Not a low baller looking for favours, just after some good suggestions please.

Following this up to add to the search base. So turns out you can braze steel to copper, which I wasn't aware of. Hurrdurr. Thus I simply brought some steel weld on fittings and had them brazed on. Job done.

Lose the rear brake.

I didn't know brass could be worked with copper, thanks. Will try asking around some machine shops for threaded tube with -AN thread in brass, thanks everyone.

I am looking at running radiator hose as braided line with -AN fittings due to how close it is to the turbos exhaust housing. The problem is that the radiator is made from copper. Does anyone know if it’s possible to source weld (braze) on fittings / tube that have a -AN thread in copper?

So cool that you got the photo with Murph and his signature in the car.

Welding is way too much work. Pop rivets.

Yeah should be easy enough with patch panels from the donar car. Found any more rust? Whats the rest of the car like?

1) Tinted lights are gay. 2) Tinted lights in a Cefiro is asking for trouble 3) Tinted lights were quite popular from the factory during the 80's: VLs, R31s & Starions of the top of my head. If the rule is no tint what so ever that seams like an inconsistency but whatever, refer to point 1.

Or more so because there are less possible points for boost leaks.

You can also have recesses drilled into the wheels to give clearance, most wheels have this as standard. Royce Clive Engineering here in Chch does it. That way if you where to remove the spacers and run standard wheels again you would still have the proper length studs. Cutting the studs shorter is the easiler / cheaper solution though.

Ideally you should hook the water lines up but people have run TD04/5s without water cooling since the dawn of time. I have had my TD05 with just the oil feed/drain for the last 2/3 years with no problems.

My car should hopefully be in a more ready state by then. Regardless I'd be keen to help out in any way thats required.

http://classiccarstorage.co.nz/

Agreed.

Well it did end up raining which isn't ideal when looking over a car for rust. If it's dry Monday and anyone is still keen / available it probably would be a good idea for a second set of eyes to look over it, he does have another interest buyer looking at it this arvo though. The main areas of concern were all in the passenger side front corner, but as it was parked in a narrow driveway against a fence it was difficult getting a decent look at it. There has been a patch cut out and replaced in the p/s front strut tower just above the chassis rail, and apparently there is some that needs patching under the front p/s guard. That guard is furked on the leading edge against the door. The front p/s corner in the engine bay has holes cut in it where it looks like it may have had intercooler piping at some stage. There was some surface rust on the underside of the bonnet, rad support and battery tray, pretty normal. Bottom of the front and rear windows looked okay. I couldn't get a good look at the inside door jam on the A pillar, again because of how it was parked, I know these can be bad areas. Bottom of the doors inside and out looked okay. The interior was complete and in reasonable condition. Overall it looked pretty straight.

I live not far from there and can do Sunday, dependent on it not pouring down which the current forecast shows.

Used a standard set of pliers to replace the seals in a CA18DET head on the weekend.