mjrstar

My new mig is set up to be able to run a spool gun, I have been considering getting one to see if it's of any use. I was just wondering if anyone has had success welding aluminim and if so down to what thickness and what gas did you use. At this stage I can't justify splashing out on a Tig and the idea of the spool gun is for the occasional 1 off aluminium job, with the possibility of gluing up a bit of stainless from time to time as well. If they are a waste of time / no good i will just spend the money on beer... My assumption was that if aluminium mig was totally awesome/quick/easy then everything you get from China/everywhere else would be migged not tigged, but the majority of stuff you see (such as radiators intercoolers and catch cans appear to be tigged) Cheers Matt

the other thing to think about is moisture/foriegn bodies making thier way in, some form of breather system is a better cleaner way to prevent "stuff" getting in. I am not a great fan of plumbing the vents to the intake due to un-necessaray oiling of the intake pipes etc.. (the idea above using the exhaust looks interesting) but if it was me i would vent to a filtered "catch can" but not worry about giving it too much in the way of vaccum to assist with the ventialtion.

10 5 will be all over this, i bet he is planning on running the chain in a criss cross / figure 8 configuration to make it drive the correct way and not get his balls meted by the exhaust. He is probably just devising the vertical chain deflector as we speak.

Sweet, good to know. I will need to devise a plan to attach in a strong enough manner so it doesn't part company at 240kph.. I was thinking either some M6 nut inserts or possibly welding some short bits of m6 threaded rod onto the hatch.. either way would get some decent load spreading material strips of steel/thick aluminium over the mounting holes to prevent cracking.

In an attempt to help high speed rear end grip I have decided to try a bit of a wing on the car.. I have no idea if these actually do anything, i did a bit of research and was unable to come up with any solid answers.. But given the shape/area compared to the one on my evo (which apparently does have quite an affect) I decided it was worth a shot, and the purists will already be anti my car as it has other bits of fibreglass hanging off it.. Wing - (Wrong colour) Still the wrong colour. Attempting to make it the right colour (this was probably a tad ambitious given today's weather and the minimal amount of 4+ year old paint I had left.. I was resigned to the fact if it turned out to be fail burger it'd make a decent high fill and hit it with a dual action sander to cover any minor imperfections in the fibreglass.. The finish wasn't too bad, so i will probably give it a whack with some 1200 once it's hardened off a bit and make a decision from there.. That is all.

the engine bay is looking nice and tidy - much better than the busy mess under the bonnet of my kp. good work

^^ keen to see the pics man.. i think i might just buy 6 complete plugs and just re-do that portion of the loom...although 2 individual crimp terminals would get me up and running..

Ducting? Can you improve the in/out airflow in such a way to prevent air wanting to escape around the sides/top/botom of the radiator? The oil cooler sounds like a good option although it may not make a huuggee difference to coolant temps.

^^ yeah also mid 90's mitsi magnas I believe..

I use a slightly different method (I learnt working on aircraft when doing 20-30 a day) which involved using a piece of nylon / plastic chopping board, putting a dollop of grease on the board then dragging just one side of the outer inner taper race through the edge of the grease,(it uses the height difference between the inner and outer cage to graw in the grease) it was a really clean method and you could tell when you had a good amount of grease coming out between the top (outer end ) of the rollers. -bloody hard to explain/ probably makes no sense but I have not used a normal hand application method since.. I might need to whip out MS paint to explain fully..

thanks chaps, it looks like there are a few options for replacement plugs complete.. I am toying with the idea of re-doing all the injectors, as I made that bit of the loom up 10 odd years ago and i'd rather not risk one cylinder running lean...

turning on full articulation with the bucket in the air up a slope.. just general muppet-ness / dude probably didn't want to work for the rest of the day.. I didn't get any pictures but the dude also tipped over a 120 tonne excavator and caused similar amounts of damage to one of it's 2 engines.. Sorry offtopic - i'll Sssh now. Ps. don't get a turbo timer..

I guess most fwd boxes will used the crown wheel to do the majority of the splash lubrication, if you were worried i reckon a simple trans cooler pump could be used to circulate the oil.. Thrust loads- if the main shaft is located at each end with a roller bearing, then it probably only has some form of circlip /retaining ring preventing thrust loads, weather you load up one side or the other side of the retaining method should not be a huge consequence.. Availability- There should be H22 powered pooloodes at pick a part from time to time.. hey even complete engine and boxes can be had at reasonable prices on the 'tard such as this dollar reserve deal - which looks good as it comes with shifter gear.. and some CV's etc.. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 388260.htm

this from (my old work) was equipped with a turbo timer, engine and trans were ready for the bin after 2 minutes running on it's side. /also better work stories etc..

I have had a few turbos, i prefer to remove the turbo timers as it provides an easy source to hotwire the ignition from. Unless you live at the top of a huge hill which requires a spell at max boost they are a waste of time. Not driving it hard balls for the last couple of k's before you intend on stopping will do much more for the longevity of the turbo/oil condition than having a turbo timer wasting your fuel after you walk away from your running vehicle....

Must have missed the mention of the k20/h22a discussion, sorry for the echo.. May have been covered on the previous page, but the evo 1-3's have a 4 shaft layout in the box and the 4-9's have a 3 shaft layout. Neither will Werk to the intended plan unless you want to go real fast backwards. you could copy that dude in ss2000 running the civic - F20C + tricked up 220 tomcat transmission. sure it's not reverse mounted but it's a pretty special package none the less..

What would be supreme would be a K20A with the engine on the drivers side mounted to an H22A box which would give 5 forward gears and have the driveshafts at the front.. (yes the gearbox would be "driven" backwards). The engine would have the sweet lean on and have the intake at the front. But man you would need to have the engine sitting a looonnngg way back...

I'm looking to re-do some of the wiring on my starlet and need some new terminals for inside the bosch injector plugs. do anyone know if you could get this exact crimp terminal through RS components or somewhere rather than having to drop $25-$30 each on 6 new plugs from petroject. This is the exact bosch connector I am using in my car.. cheers

get the headers HPC'd that stuff is pretty good, i have had a turbine housing done and it still looks like brand new. Also exhaust wrap when properly done (applied wet and tied off properly) will last pretty well.. or as P-star mentioned some new heat shield material / pretty much anything will be better that the current state of affairs.

I am looking to get some parts tidied up (probably passivated Zinc coating) and was wondering if anyone has good dealings with any particular outfit in Hamilton. Cheers Matt

I have some 15x8 0 offset wheels which are 4 x114 and have 205 's on them. In Ohaupo.

the battery cost $85 including rural delivery so not complaining, plus it starts the car well. (Did a number of starts in quick succession as i was chasing an issue where it only wanted to run on 4 cylinders)

I have a wideband port in my mini, but found it to be a bit hit and miss compared to tuning an injected car... To the point where I actually acheved better results tuning the SU by feel/ear/sparkplug colour. You really have to sort out the idle mixture (adjustment) and then play with the needle (diameter) to get fuelling at cruise / max rpm with spring weight (inside the dash pot), then work on transient throttle by fiddling with the dash pot oil(i like a pretty heavy oil compared to some suggestions i have seen).

Agreed they wont carry a normal cca rating. I wouldnt consider it for a daily driver, but the bloke i got it off uses them in grumpy race cars without too many dramas. Time will tell if its up to the task.

The ae86 ones will need a top locating ring, but the overall length is pretty good. Munroe do a replacement insert for kp's which were suffiient to keep my lovells springs captive.