mjrstar

Does that then mean there is no faff about with starter engagement? Because non OEM starter placement can be a bit of a pain in the arse to get right as far as teeth engagement and throw out etc.. and if you can eliminate that hurdle it'd be worthwhile.

What diameter is the relief in the crank, can you start them flush by drilling and tapping to m12?

Does that coolant line from the back of the head have a bracket back to the block? I reckon it might need one if it doesn't.

Ooh yeah that isn't going to work..

It kind of looks like the release fork should be in the groove forward of the bearing, as per crude scribble attached? Not right at the back? Also on my Honda I shimmed the pivot ball outwards, although I had the opposite problem with fine tuning of the clutch engagement window.. this may or may not be an option?

3 bond 1215 for the win, not cheap but worth it. OEM spec for Toyota/Honda etc total bastard to get apart again if you need to. https://www.repco.co.nz/car-care-panel/adhesives-sealants/gasket-cements/threebond-high-temperature-rtv-silicone-liquid-gasket-250gm-grey-1215-250/p/A1130561 I have found that hylomar required an absolutely immaculate finish to get a good seal, due to the fact it's non setting and pretty thin. The tiniest nick or gouge and you need to find something with a bit more goo to it. Disassembly a breeze generally though.

Good news about the intake, the turbos I have definitely are 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 neck. Did you happen to measure the old turbo inlet.. I'm interested, as this could be a suitable intermediate upgrade for my old airtrek turbo.. I vaguely recall an internal rubber sleeve/ ring thing which fits inside the intake to adapt the 2 different sizes, you fit it for the smaller turbo, or put it in the bin for the larger.. That carbon intake thingee looks suitably bling!

You might get the intake to fit if it has a bit of stretch, I think it's about 57mm vs 63mm OD.

I decided a gentle massage of the j pipe for starter clearance was the way to go when I put the IX turbo ony Evo. Plus a minor trim of the fan shroud. It must be close to 20 years ago when I did the conversion but from memory the turbo coolant lines are kind of interchangeable but also required some persuasion. And of course the compressor intake pipe goes up a size too.

Pretty much this^^ @xsspeed My civic is no wof but or rego (on hold) this makes sense as I have the gear to cart it places, and I don't have the admin of 6 monthly wof. You will need a log book which dictates a safety audit every 3 events, and realistically if you are going to race a car then a couple of grand for a rollcage is cheap. Some events will allow noncaged cars but I wouldn't bank on this continuing into the future with the latest round of FHR rules. No wof/ reg = it's fine for track days, and hillclimbs (road closure events), but not suitable for rally, or tarmac rally ( targa etc..) these require the fruit that @cletus mentioned including authority card.. often there is a short run from the pit area to the start of the road closure, in the ~50 events I have done this hasn't been a concern. Process is: Join MSnz affiliated car club membership. Build cage. Fill out cage paperwork, take photos, fill out log book paperwork pay money. I think it used to be burn cd and post away but might have moved on since then.. Get log book in the post. Paint the rollcage. Put all safety stuff in car. Get friendly with local motorsport scrutineer. Do your own safety audit according to schedule A to check for dumb shit.. take note where fasteners or distances are specified. Buy lots of decent safety clothing etc Get scrutineer to visit, pay them beer to do initial inspection before your first event, and mark off pre inspection in your shiny new log book. Do a skid.

Yeah 1/2 inch is getting up there for EFI fuel line.

Yeah this is what I did, and it's ugly. Tempted to try and form my own rubber hose.

For sure, Often hidden as a pill inside the hose, so not always apparent.

I have this which is in my spares package for the race car. It should be p30 to OBD2 loom (is there other types?), although I haven't had it out of the packet to confirm. Happy to loan it it it helps with troubleshooting.

Do you just need one of those OBD2 to obd1 adapter looms to fault find?

Not really tech but where do I buy EFI hose which is pre-shaped.. I need a short radius 90 degree 12mm ID. Welcomed to fuel smell and puddle in the shed this morning fml. Cheers

It seems DC machines have become quite competitively priced, but AC/DC not so much. I have had my Tig for a few years, and it was around $1700 with a bit of a hook-up price but not a mad deal. I was about to tell you to stop complaining and that's the cost etc.. but whoa the model I have ain't 1700 bucks no more.. https://www.saecowilson.co.nz/product/wia-weldarc-200i-ac-dc-arc-tig-welder/ Maybe try leaning on you local trade zone, to see if they have any deals going on excel arc.

Had very similar symptoms which was a sticky rear piston in one of the calipers, but agree with @RUNAMUCK start at the master cylinder..

Hardware, software or both? I'm about to dip my toe into performance diesel (if such a thing exists) and would be keen fit it to ingest only the freshest of air.

I suspect that the breakaway torque each time you went to creep up on the 105 degrees means there is a decent chance that you'd apply more torque than a single swing to 105 degrees. It might well be like @Hemi says and not matter because the clamping load has been met and that's what keeps the head gasket happy. If I'm wrong on this though I'm happy to be educated.

What sort of duty, would a Battery drill or impact driver be an option?

You won't need to do that anyway because we know you are putting an 8 speed dct and paddle shift in it like all the cool kids have been doing for a while now.. https://www.domi-works.com/collections/dct-adapter-kits

If they are milled to the correct pcd not wildly oversized and there is still a good land for the bolt head I don't see too much of an issue. Welding the chromoly then remachining for trueness opens up some potential headache in my opinion.

Those sump design bits look ok, but I don't see where the dry sump pump connects. Are you looking to add the fittings in later?

This is probably a moot point, but i wanted to bring it up. We all know why we swing the intake cam for rev range and performance gains, and everyone says exhaust cam timing is barely worth the effort, and you can't go bigger cams because the valves clash...... But...m Consider this, what if you swing the exhaust cam on its own vvt strategy purely to get the valve out if the way to allow even more wild intake cam size and timing? / Probably wouldn't work dumb idea?