BlownCorona

yes its just the standard bearing, also used on kingswood from memory. costs a bloody fortune from rare spares and is still an incredibly shitty looking bearing, so i intend on machining up a bush from something nice. https://www.rarespares.net.au/rsnz/buy/7800269/bearing-steering-column-upper-hk-ht-hg-hq-hj-hx-hz i think its that part but please dont quote me on it. i took one look at the price and construction and dismissed it as an option.

much appreciated!

i like the shrouding, id like to impliment this on mine

Hey mate. i did sort the steering centering by winding in some more caster (mine was set at 0 degrees) that said id be keen to see your alignment numbers. As for the overheating, I've not done too much on that front while ive been trying to buy a house and all my stuff is in storage. i pulled the waterpump hoping to find missing fins, it was rough but not too bad but it could have been causing cavitation so ill still replace it. the radiator was not blocked either. my assumption was that the heater bypass which runs very high nearly above the valve cover was struggling with air bubbles and ill reroute it lower and with a bleed point. your experience worries me to a degree though. i may look to get a larger radiator for it. also, on this forum we do things slightly different with separate discussion threads so keep the build threads nice and tidy, you will find the discussion for this project here

you called it. from several disheartened attempts at selling this over the last few years, to the cover. well deserved.

i used one of those to check my breitling and it suggested my watch was slightly slow (id be surprised if it was dead on) but i need to fix a few little things before i wear it and check that over a month or so. it seemed to work well though, but on a watch with low amplitude it may not hear it too well.

ive seen the russian stuff, pretty tempted to be honest! wonder how much radium they soaked into them. some have some pretty cool dials, i saw one with a huge radioactive symbol and the cccp emblem. could be tempted on some movements for sure!

I'm just getting into watchmaking now too. Got myself a Breitling (windrider reserve de marche). have wanted one since forever and always figured if i managed to get one then i must be successful in my endeavors and for that reason it feels so good to wear. i plan on being the one to service it for the rest of my life, but am certainly not going to start out working on it so now on the hunt for a cheap non runner of something nice to start out my education. watch resto videos on youtube with good narration are so cathartic and relaxing to watch and have always enjoyed this thread.

theres a sticker guy down here with a brand you might enjoy https://lmtbrk.com/

that plate really suits the jap p plate style. so many look bloody aweful. /oldschool jrpg nerd

put a dyna body onto a 2wd hilux airbaged minitruck chassis

my crown has a massive spring pulling the clutch pedal down, makes the heavy duty clutch feel like butter, i expect you'll notice a big difference.

heat shrink over the cut braid and a hose clamp would be my move unless you dont want a visible hose clamp. you can also get heat shrinkable hose clamps for radiator hoses, can probably get small ones too. that would be a clean way to do it gates power grip i would blow cold air through the hose/plastic fitting while shrinking though to hopefully prevent damage to the plastic nipple

because of freight costs i havnt ordered yet, but perhaps we could combine?

hey i can actually do that now with the new exhuast that lets you hear the whine. will deliver still doesnt sound like that wild ke70 i badly want to know what the difference is it sounds supercharged now atleast instead of just broken exhuast 1gge

Took this temporarily off the road to chase down an oil leak that was getting real bad. I presumed it was the front main seal, but after having the whole front of the motor off and then the sump, which had fuck all of the wrong sealant on it, concluded that this was likley the issue. Did all the usual servicing with the front taken apart. While I was in there I discovered the cambelt crank pulley was fucked, it was worn on keyway and the key itself was worn, as it turned out approximately 18 degrees of timing innacuracy. I tried to buy a new pully only for it to come back nla, and nothing second hand turned up in the short amount of time I wanted to wait, so I took to repairing what I had. Machined off the rear belt guide flipped the pully so it drove on the fresh side and made a new belt guide. Also ground up a new key that drives on the full width of the pulley. Also discovered the *slightly* harder to swap rear two plugs just hadn't been swapped. 6 new iridium plugs went in to replace this garbage. I also got sick of the cobbled together exhuast that sounded shit so ordered up some new parts, coupled with a hand made in Japan titanium rear muffler from Fabril Laboratory (little alfa romeo and general Ti manufacturing shop) sounds great now and quiet at cruise. Tucked up nice and high and havnt heard a scrape yet. Got some stickers And today, wofd, regd, cleaned and polished ready for daily duties once again

i put together a water truck for work and we use it so much. Its also real fun in fire truck mode. 1000L out in a few minutes

im just as screwed as you are. my corona is living on a car trailer at my parents house and my entire life/workshop is packing into a shipping container while i try to buy a new house/bigger garage. its painful

twin turbo 2gr is going to be wild. race ya to finish twin turbo 80 series builds! couple thoughts, a j160 will almost certainly not take the torque of your planned engine, and neither will nearly any mx5 diff option. a friend is putting a vq35de into his mx5 and will be producing subframe adapters to fit an r200 diff. given youre a fabricator i imagine you can simply do the same. check out flying miatas ford 8.8 diff conversion and copy that for an available diff. tremec tr6060 would be my pick. otherwise a cd009 or r154 would probably be suitable options.

eh, i get a flashing low fuel light in my car, but the engine doesn't change its operation in any way.

how the fuck have i never heard this, this should be etched into their fucking cases!

yeah had a poke around their site and couldnt see. thats excellent news! thanks very much, i think ill buy two and have both the digital dash pack and oem speedo function in the corona too.

do you know what sort of 'flavor' pulse comes out of it? it might be an easy way to reinstate cruise control on the crown. my auto gearbox had a hall sensor which read 4 pulses per revolution on the output shaft. but the manual trans has no such provisions.

i just sourced some parts from him this weekend. very friendly and cut me a solid deal without me even asking him to sharpen his already fair list prices. a real good bastard for sure.

also i really thinks s13s are pretty nearly if not definitely oldschool these days. what is it? an '89 or something? my crown and my chevron are both '88 and pretty oldschool. s13s were well ahead of the curve in terms of styling, they must have looks like spaceships in their day, epic resurrection