BlownCorona

Nope spoke too soon, same issue still. Seems a bit better but still not quite right. Need to see if timing is even in the right area though before poking around anything else

After actualy finding the idle screw (on the back and underneath the TB, and a H2 Allen bolt????? Turns out it never even was touching the throttle. So I adjusted this up. I guess the cable was doing the throttle stopping and I upset it when I removed the kick down cable. Found my timing light is broken, but as it still had a bit of a stumble, advanced it a couple taps and it's pretty acceptable now. Will check what it really it soon. So I guess that's all it really needed.

i agree. will give it a go.

beat me to it. 1G? if so ill probably just do this also. so long as its not an manual swap related issue

mind you, other than the obvious effects of adjusted timing, it is still an auto spec engine. the other problem is, that it often wont actually hold an idle even when trying to softly feather the throttle into an idle. this could be an idle speed adjustment issue, but the rpms its doing at this point i feel should be able to sustain an idle just fine - near 850-1000

can definitely adjust the cas (only the supercharger cars had a cas vs dizzy) im not sure sure if there were any manual GZE cars im currently searching toyodiy for one and see what PN the ecu is.

i know alot of toyota ecus have AT and MT on them, but my ecu doesnt have those markings

nope. but there is not any (wiring) differences to note between the ecu for manual and auto. it did not require any tricking to run and the only wiring change needed was to bypass the neutral start switch which is simply an inline switch on the starter circuit. now that said, if you told me there were some tune differences to handle the differenced between auto and manual such as having a flywheel, and a much faster response to throttle inputs ect ect, then i would believe you. it may be extremely difficult to find a manual supercharged ECU so hopefully its not that

Hi all calling on people with toyota 1G experience. ive recently swapped my supercharged crown to manual. and it starts and drives just fine, however when coming back down from a rev up, the engine falls too far, often tries to catch it but ultimately stalls out. just after confirmation that nothing manual swap related has caused this? other than it didn't do it with the auto. assuming its not the lack of auto, where should i begin looking? so far ive not done much other than check the ISCV has power, which it does, but im not sure how to check its getting the right sort of control from the ecu. the filter side hose on the valve does suck at varying rates so i think its okay. ive also unplugged the afm while it was running and had the car stall out immediately so im pretty sure thats alright too. could be throttle body or afm that needs a clean?

will do, cheers mate. agree on saeco....

Awesome insight. Much appreciated, I'll definitely look at getting nolothane bushes in there. The rubber ones fitted look to be somewhat new (albeit it was a 14 year old barn find) so this could also explain why it's got approximately 1 degree of caster

oh fantastic, i was hoping there would be something easy. and i did look at those arms and wondered. im picking its got fuck all castor since with the car on the ground and the steering disconnected i can swivel the wheel through its full movement no problems when it should be trying to lift the car. thanks for the angle spec too!

another one for @yoeddynz @vivaspeed and anyone who knows about Vivas or suspension geometry. a query raised at the wof was about the steering not returning to center, they thought it may be cause of the stiff spot in one area of the steering, but ive sorted that and its still no better. not really surprised as it wasn't really that stiff. at any speeds, low or high the steering wheel doesn't really return to center. now my limited knowledge on suspension geometry is that castor angle is what causes this effect. and castor angle looks to be really close to 0 deg on this car. there looks to be some form of caster angle adjustment where the viva subframe connects to the chassis, but it appears the upper mounts wont allow any angle change at all without stressing the whole lot. i could bend or remake the upper mounts but thought id better ask here what would be the way castor angle is adjusted on a viva? it looks like i could push the lower arm forward some with the trailing arms but that doesn't seem correct either.

you know youre probably right there, i was only going 16mm cause thats what the guy at saeco measured, but id better buy a battery for my verniers (or get some OG ones) and check for myself. id be much less surprised if it was 5/8ths be a bunch more options at 5/8ths too

its appears to be a double row ball bearing type. its not tapered, but it might be like an old pushbike? ive never played with them. unfortunately the play is between the shells and balls. so the inner race has some movement in it that it shouldnt do. its a 16mm shaft, which is weird because i thought it would have been imperial. but 16mm bearings arnt very common. the amount of play left with the grease, id probably be happy to run with (knowing that the bearings not going to collapse or anything) but i dont think the wof man should have to accept a half fixed solution

i repacked the bearing with grease and it made it heaps better, but there's still a little play unfortunately enough that i probably do need to source a new bearing to fit in there.

went to saeco but nothing off the shelf (though increasingly ive found saeco to be unable to help with things that arnt direct replacements) so have taken that with a grain of salt and having a look online myself. it sure would help if i could find my vernier calipers, or even my streel rule. keep ya garages clean yo, its a pain in the ass,

man is that really what they want to charge for something like that? its not even a good bearing. if its gonna be anymore than 20 bucks for an oem bearing ill just make an off the shelf skf fit/never gonna wear out again. edit - i do ofcourse appreciate the help and sourcing of other options!

took this to get a wof today in preparation for another sweet summer hooning around, failed on general service items so pretty please. needs; rear diff/axle seals number plate light to go (already fixed was just some corosion) a crack fixed on what they thought was the steering mount, turns out its just an allow cover over a hefty steel mount, will still fix, but likley isnt an issue anyway. steering doesnt return to centre, and has a bit of a stiffer spot when turnin to the right hand side - unsure what this is, hoping no biggie, might be ball joints? wow shop suggest it could be the UJ but it apears to only happen one direction. maybe just good regrease. steering column has play near steering wheel - took the top end appart and looks like the bearing is wearing, looks to be an HB viva column to match the front end - *calling @yoeddynz * do you know where i could source that pressed steel bearing thats not $80+AUD? otherwise ill probably just jamb a normal double row bearing in there. could probably pack this one with grease and have it come right too if i get stuck. who are the rich boomers keeping rarespares in business huh?

on a similar note, the same DS80 recently at dirt masters had similar carby symptoms, took the carby apart and found that the stand pipe for bowl overflow had cracked and bent and was jamming the float too high. so yeah could totally be that

the crank seal on my ds80 once fell out and was wobling around on the crank shaft. for ages i coudnt find the issue, also though carb issues. it was super on / off for for running mint or running like shit. i even back flipped the bike down my drive trying to get it running, holding it wide open in first and suddenly it was back to running mint. turns out the seal was sort of bouncing in and out of the case enough to seal

i will have to let you know, seems like you may be keen to aquire them, ill have to have a long hard think about whether i want to store them or not, on one hand i hate them, on the other hand, they were a bespoke, and original alloy produced for the chevron (to my understanding) and it appears most chevrons have lost them. *probably due to how badly they fit and how shit they look*

plan is wobble nuts as i assume its 4x4 given the viva front end. the torana 5 stud end had been redrilled to match. as i need to buy new wheels nuts anyway, the allots use tube nuts, and they are al miss matched as it is.

either 4x4 or 4x100, i havnt measured them with anything accurate. they are pretty heavy for alloys, but also have some other issues, such as the shank nuts wall thickness to the centre bore is so thin that on several studs its even broken through, its been like that since '88, so i guess its fine, but i still dont like it, i also dont like the style or fitment. the steelies with their bigger tires feel slightly lighter than the alloys on my calibrated arm scales, but ill hopefully chuck them on the scales at work at some point. its probably near even tbh.

the tires are a little bit stretch spec, but still wider than what was on it and the treads good so ill revisit that once i need new tires.