BlownCorona

so looks like this is another thread thats been fucked by photobucket. i wont really bother going back and repairing the photos. you can imagine a bunch of shitty welding and poorly thoughtout ideas that will be contined from here on out. so i dragged this out from under the bench (very literally) today and cut the frame in half to add roughly 300mm to the total lenght, itll still need some reinforcing but now everything, mainly the driver, fits alot nicer. its also pretty much a full size 30s style gp car now so i dont know what to call it, if just been refering to is as my open wheeler. will progress keep up momentum this time? who knows. i only know that it will one day get finished but always lives on the bottom of the to do list. i did score a sweet TQ tail cone as discussed earlier. and am looking into some sort of rollbar, though the piece i have sitting there i fear is too thin walled to really protect me in a roll over. which would fucking hurt cause its quite large now. ive fucked around with the front suspension a couple of different ways and it kinda sucks all the time so im toying with the idea of turfing suspension all together and just welding on A arms solid and seeing how shitty (authentic?) it rides.

I didn't know that, but they were twin HKS F-cons

The top secret 1gz turbo v12 supra has an ecu per bank, though he only had fairly old tech to work with

the only thing i ever rotated on that base were tires and bottles

Yeah I got a 60 house with rimu floors. Keen to stain it a little darker though

just how flat does the floor need to be before urethaning it? im planning on ripping up the carpet in the dinning room and extending the polished wood from the kitchen right through.

pw80 engine?

Vertical stays would be stronger, these stays are just some that were available for a good price, the spoiler and brackets are 2.5mm stainless so it doesn't really matter where it's supported from cause it's very rigid. I fit them this way cause the boot skin is pretty thin and I was more concerned about point loading the boot so opted to spread the load out there. Vertical stays would also get around this issue but on an angle seems to work just fine and I like the look, which let's face it, is 100% the reason I built a spoiler in the first place!

Those rims are so sick! Matches the rest of the bike / trike??

the wing isnt adjustable, and would be pretty hard to get to hinge and look nice due to the curve of the bootlid. the rod stays are adjustable but dont need to be. its 100% for looks and some research seems to sugest it may help with fuel economy due to less drag but if that actually happens itll just be a bonus. between the angle brakets and the supports its very solid. if i push on it the whole car moves. everything is somewhat triangulated. through looking at pics of these kinda wings i noticed that 90% of them, although they had adjustable turnbuckles, were not actually adjustable, and i made the call that i wasnt going to need to actually adjust it, so no point wasting more money and thought on a hinge setup that would probably have looked less tidy, where on a race car thats not such an issue.

Progress on the spoiler. Very very pleased with it so far. It will be painted flat black, and I have a large old font Toyota decal/stencil in on order to so an slr5000 style graphic on the back.

likewise! its a spare boot anyway so if it all goes to hell ill just mod a ke55 glass spoiler or bolt the original lid back on, but im confident it will look good, the cardboard template on the car looked great.

wait untill right before something like armagedon expo etc for max profit?

its going to be flat and follow the slight curve of the bootlid. ive look at a million photos over the last few months and settled on this style. as i can definatly make it look good on the cheap (important right now) and i cant buy a glass spoiler to suit my car, certaintly cant make one that will look any good etc. plus im liking the very subtle american twist the car is getting.

Something else ive been cooking up for a spare bootlid i had.

Well this is a rather proud post from me, and ive held it back a few weeks while i tidy some stuff up enough to make a video. I can officially state that i own a supercharged corona, the motor is up and running, and running great! with the only thing really going wrong being my maths skills, ive fucked up the pully ratio and not making the amount of boost i want but thats an easy fix, and for now its nice to tune on a really safe boost level. Heres a lame video of some of the more dorty bits of a tuning run i did this evening. i still need to make a post about some of the smaller details. such as the bizzare way i made mrmk1s water pump pulley work for me, and the tensioner pulley grunter so kindly made for me. ill do that at some point. but for now im over the moon about how well my car is running, plenty of tuning to go including winding some more boost into it, which will also net that signiture whine!! but before i do that ive decided ill tear the pistons out and open up the ring gaps, as that is the single thing that bugs me, and ill be so gutted if the engine fails because i didnt take the time to sus it. ive wanted a supercharged car ever since i saw one at the dirt track speedway when i was a kid.

i ordered one of those boxes so im glad to hear the good reveiw. i currently have the relays sort of strapped together and although i could make a bracket, the nice box will make it easier and neater.

Relays in the appropriate places have fixed all Problems, once again thanks all that provided their help! I've just done it all with fly leads to confirm the fix and will now look into a proper relay box and wire it with correct gauge wiring etc. One step closer to boost cruising!

That's one of the only options that I've found, wasn't too keen on China spec stuff powering my entire car but I may have to get one and swap out the hardware. I don't see why I would have any more wiring than any other option? I'm pretty sure they have a cover on the bottom

yeah i mostly want it for the relays, as if need be i can fit fused relays. problem with OEM, i have the fusebox from the car my engine came out of, an 80s corona GT, and although on top it looks fine albeit a little big. it has propriety plugs on the bottom and no simple way to wire the relays and fuses in a custom way. though if you find an oem option that does work this way do let me know.

Will do this weekend! Also have to change the oil incase fuel made its way past the bores but I'm keen to see how it starts once it hasn't emptied the fuel rail into the bores on shut down! Certainly explains alot of stuff that I was trying to tune out to no avail. @downtrail while your here (and anyone else that might know) , do you know of any nice small relay and fuse boxes, I'm after something to hold atleast 4 relays plus fuses and will allow me to tuck all the wiring away as right now it looks very ugly

i can confirm the injectors get straight battery power. im picking the 18rgeu ecu doesnt ground out the injector pins when it shuts off. should be a simple fix, whether or not the megasquirt is supposed to ground the injecor pins when its off im not sure but will endevour to find out. from what i can gather its possibly normal

im not running the car or even powering it up properly untill its sorted. but i agree that switched power feeds are probably the problem, im also gonna find a nice relay/fuse box as itll help tidy up one of the most messy areas i have in the bay. any recommendations?

its probably not much different in architecture. ill take a look at the injector wiring and double check the fuel pump wiring, im 90% sure itll be that the old ecu ran the injectors slightly diifferently and i just need to chuch a relay in the mix. at the very least itll probably bandaid fix the problem and ill be non the wiser..

there is an ecu relay, but its looking like when the ecu shuts off that it pulls some pins to ground which is grounding out some of other relays. the fuel pump replay is 12v powered on both sides and pulled to earth to switch the pump as per the MS wiring diagram. its possible that its not ecu related and just back feeding through something, though my radiator fan doesnt act this way. edit after posting this i noticed that the fuel pump relay should be off the main relay, this could be an issue, however i dont believe i had it wired this way when i was running it on my old setup.