vivaspeed

@BlownCorona there should be plenty of castor adjustment in the standard Viva subframe set up. The lower arm is on a rubber bush so will happily move back and forth on adjustment (and if the bushes are flogged out it will move back and forth while driving too!) and the top arm is fixed by it's two mounting points. Just undo the big nuts on the castor arm and wind it out. Maybe also replace the bushes on the castor arm too. You can get a Nolathane part for it (Torana). Looking in some of my reference manuals they recommend 2.5 to 4 degrees. I'd wind heaps into it for sporty driving. The upside of using a Viva front end is the whole thing is self contained. The body/chassis mounting points don't make any difference to any of it, they only hold the body to the suspension. Of course would pay to make sure the subframe is mounted square to the chassis.

So yeah I don't really update this at all, not much has happened since my last post in 2017. Had to use Google to find this build thread because OS search sucks. For the first time in over 5 years this is now living in the same house where I live. Amazing. I might even use it over summer. It doesn't fit down my driveway though so I'll have to make a small ramp to avoid it getting bellied. Was a three plank job to get it down today when it arrived. I might do some stuff to it as well. Check back in 2023.

Looks rad. Good job. Is graffiti a problem in your hood?

Well I'm out. COVID-19 has thwarted my travel plans so I won't be in town for this. Dumb.

City side. Staying centrally. Anything south of Ngauranga would work. It would be rad to see Wellington folks again. I miss Wellington meets.

Is the March meet on the 19th? If so I'm in town for that.

Oh yeah incredible machine game. Those conveyor belts always went the wrong way first time around, flip the belt over. Kids today need more 'build shit' games to learn mechanical theory.

Any of those old Sierra and Apogee games were great.

This thread is relevant to my interests. A few years ago I installed DOS 6.2 and Win 3.1 or 3.11 on an mid 2000s Pentium laptop I had for shits and giggles. It must have been a rainy day or something. OMG all the speed and it booted up in about 7 seconds. Tried to install Netscape Navigator and see what the internet did but couldn't make the LAN connection work on old Windows.

Didn't realise you could buy coil overs for these things. Shiny and new. You going to cert it, or just smash out a plate at work one day

These have the potential to be cool if they're not white/silver and being your Uber. Was seriously looking at a Prius C / Aqua as a small roundabout and for my 500km/week commute. Don't need actual power in Auckland traffic and to minimise fuel consumption. These are the later 1.8 motor right?

I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable. What's the jetting in the 32/36 because they were used on much larger engines. I ran a 28/36 DCD with too large jets and it was terrible but tune it down smaller and it was fine. You can also take a SPI injection unit off a Falcon and it pretty much bolts up too (with some slight slotting) In case you want to run EFI with massive injectors at 0.05% duty cycle

Having gone down both paths. Modern Japanese on injection is the way of the future. You can spend a lot of money making an old engine only half as good as a modern twin cam. Also 4AGEs are an old engine now. Basic 16v design is 35 years old now. MX5 engine in rwd is the go.

Keen to see how this turns out. Chassis fabrication looks good.

I edited and pasted links for you - it's as easy as pasting the link in the address bar.

I'm really impressed by your level of care for a car you're just going to on sell once done. Paint looks cool. You could have Crowns in all colours of the rainbow at this rate.

On the tin says 'rally car turquoise' because I got it mixed when I resprayed it 10 years ago. It's a slightly brighter version of the colour it was when I bought it. No idea what it's originally from.

I didn't manage my third run of that hillclimb because the rag joint in the steering broke and I had no steering. Luckily it was in the paddock while at low speed, not during a run. Replaced it with a new Nolathane part. Lucky. Anyway, having not crashed it I decided to put a new ECU in it, something I'd been meaning to do for ages. Bought a Link Atom with easy mount kit from NZEFI. I also splashed out on new connectors so the wiring was easy and everything is nice and new. Decided to go to a wasted spark setup as well. It runs! Just need to get it tuned up. I also replaced a headlight with a mesh grill and made a really quick and dirty cold air intake.

Time for more videos. I took this out to a hillclimb in November 2017 and beat @mjrstar by a very small margin. Here's some clips. Clip 1 - how to make some poo come out Clip 2 - the full version of my last run

Given its M powered I'm sure any reliabilty will be short term only. (Says he with the British and Australian and Mitsubishi cars)

2JZ time?

Hey who has a recommendation for a fibreglass repair place Auckland Hamilton Tauranga area? Got a smashed light pod with my Evo rally car which looks repairable but my fibreglass skills are pretty basic and I'm a bit time poor.

There are many reasons it looks stupid, but you can blame the wheels.

Height looks good. Wheel to sidewall ratio is all wrong.

Buying and working on more crowns isn't going to get a supercharger on your mustang.