77magnum13hundy

first coat of blue print pearl, dark purple in dark places turquiose green in the light areas and blue in the middle, so far its taking my liking... it could be a bit much for this thing but is better than stale yeller colour the old girls been in for the last ages got some new bushes, didnt quite fit but then they did after some fettling, and so

fair play chap, looking real nice in there, and those exhausts seem to clear everything well, running dual pipes out the front of rear wheels (hehe) or single?

So not really moving forward at a pace but nonetheless moving forward, so painting inside the cabin got underway and after getting alot of lint and crap from all the nooks and cranny's its now been rust converted, The headliner has 4 rods running across to keep the vinyl in check, ripped those out to find the bottom of the roof has rust, wire-wheeled and then applied the kill rust paint, the floor pans had initially been undersealed but they were in need of a refresh the inside looks a lot better now. The dash does not come out unless you really want it to, was figuring to change the whole front to maybe a toyota one then thought na, too much faffing about. I need to sort out; painting the rest of the car putting engine in, sorting rear brakes fitting a driveshaft hoop which complies fitting seats. 1 left to do. exhaust from the flexi back. wiring entire car, pulled the loom out to paint the dash area. wiring the link in, maybe fit a oxy sensor get the car running, drivable. get cert wof and go At a guess id say 2months to go (multiply by 4 carry the one, 5months.)

its proper fiberglass, i have to sand it back a bit, real nasty stuff.. gets in every where, will bog straight on it, just was worried it may lift if moisture got between the layers kinda like metal and bog...

anyone no this? bog straight on or paint between fiberglass and bog? cheers

SO..... i have etch primed the engine bay...

Yep the v6's make some good noises, i had a 6A10 (1.8 V6 galant) and chucked a big pod on it and sounded like a porshe...time to upload a pic of mine now, the viva that is

IF your in the southern area Ive used GK engine reconditioners before for my 4age head, he stung me 400 odd but half that price was labour and puttin the shims in and mucking about.Skim acid wash, valve seats and seals. Go buy the valve stem seals when you drop the head off. This place is down the road from Panmure roundabout, it goes without saying, get the job quoted first.

hey coming along quite nicely, is the intake system staying n/a? this should produce awesome induction noises. Brake setup looks good. Did you make that box up yourself for the intake, some mad fab skills and keeping it different which is always good to see. Your tig skills are coming along nicely, time to do some cashies for the locals...

so fiberglass.... whats best to lay on that before paint, the story is my roof had a few dings along one side so ive put fiberglass on, i will work that back then get the height correct with a slight skim of bog, any paint layers needed between the fiberglass and the bog? do they react with moisture etc...

I have usually found if its got a reset button behind the face plate this can stop it from doing silly things, but not sure if yours would have one, mines a sony. sounds like its ok now....

she is actually really tall, i saw her too once dropping a car off to gitrap toyota bakindadays.

so even if they have the mounting points in there, can I remove the belts and run nothing? and what about the back seat in a 4dr, are you allowed to remove it for extra tool box space etc?, put a peice of ply in there all nice with carpet and a 12" sub or something? When my front seats are fully retracted back i think they'l be no room for anyone in the back anyways/toolboxes

can i use a set of 2dr folding forward seats in a 4dr car? if so, would i need to get rid of the lever that sends it rocketing forward and things that make it tilt forwards? Also putting a stressed seat in to a non-stressed seated car and using OG anchorages is that legit as? Stressed meaning the seatbelt clip is attached to the seat itself as opossed to the interior shell of car. Cheers

dunno if your after the flow ratings or not but this link here has helped me in the past ... http://witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php / no use at all

yep i live on hepburn chur

yeh, i think the wire feed motor was replaced, its set on almost nothing, they could have not got the wires in properly, but i did ask a welding machine repair shops in akl and they wanted me to bring it in for a small inspection fee of 100 dollars..which was a no... My thinking is that if the voltage supplied to the motor was increased then that would have great effect seeing as how i'm hardly turning up the wire speed. I think I'll run a voltage meter across it see what its reading and if its about 12vlts then reduce to 8 with a resistor.it may well blow up. it just feels too rushed when i try to start the pool going, and it makes it a crap outcome.

in this case of mitsi ones they do, but id say not all are like that, and ryanfels thats probs the best way to do that, if your allowed in the kitchen with car stuff. basically heat the thing till it expands thoery.

yeah its even faster, like stupid fast. say it starts at a 9 o'clock position and goes around to the 3 o'clock position, if it goes about to 10 or 11 its way too fast. I could crank the heat up to compensate but im only dealing with sheet metal at the mo, once we get into 3-4mm stuff its in its element.

me and my mate did this with a map gun when we changed over the ring gears from the 4g11 flywheel to the l200 one... get some wooden blocks 2 decent sized hammers and a flat edged chisel, oh yeh and some welding gloves... youtube it up too, run the torch around the ring consistently for a couple of mins maybe 3-4 flip it over then get the chisel to work it off, one hits with the hammer and chisel the other spins the flywheel around in increments. It'll soon be off. If it dont budge then you'v not heated it enough or havent been smacking it hard enough. To put the ring back on keep the flywheel cold (as in do not heat) and run the torch around the ring as you did previously and as even as possible tap it back on, start without the chisel, but youll have to finish with it, dont fanny about either cos its slowly cooling down and the window will be closing. get the ring on there nice and flush. the wooden blocks are used to elevate the flywheel off the ground and so that the dowels dont scuff your garage floor or burr when you try to fit your clutch plate back on.

Hey so i got this old mig star 180 off the tard a while back and its spitting out the wire too fast. It has power settings 1,2,3,4,5,6. The higher the power the faster the wire also goes. It also has the knob to turn the wire speed up and down.... ive got it set on the lowest setting but it seems to still piss out too fast. Can i install another resistor on the power side of the electric motor feed which would half the speed and allow me better control of the wire, as it seems this has been a hinderance on my welding stz... Im guessin the motor that feeds the wire in is a dc powered one doesnt seem to have too much grunt, could i just put in a cabin light dimmer out of a car (variable resistor) type thing or would some place actually sell them. Do i need to pay any special attention to AMPs and stuff like that? Cheers

no go on the seat belt idea, bolt iN ones only. you cannot resew them im sure its been covered in here b4....

Hey so currently I have got this new block honed... Put a new set of bearings in it and slapped the old (newish rings) in aswell. I did the lot for 160 bucks as my fundage is non existant due to new mortgage acc.... boo hoo One more plate to go in the front end before i get someone to check it over then its on to the paint side of things. So not too many things to do but at least a while before it'l be wof spec. Hilux diff idea has been put aside as I'd like to just enjoy the open diff for now. Still to do, wiring up new link ecu, painting, seat install, redo brakes.... mmmm probly heaps more but thats the main things. Huge clean up of garage is on the cards... must be done, everytime i do one of these i find bits needed for the build and the puzzle is more complete. Anyways here is the new block, i painted it, have this colour on the cards for the rest of the shell, sort of turquiose/aquamarine with metallic added spec. Here is the 4age...

unbolt the plugs and line then up connected to the leads (earthng them out of corse) and wind it over just to see if the are firing in sequence, 1342 or whatever it may be. Then take off rocker covers and check what the cams / valves are doing vs the pistons position, as inlet closes and exhaust opens etc vs the distributor spinning direction, where the rotor ends up, each 90 degrees should meet up near a point on the dizzy cap... tdc = no. 1 . turn by hand even just to see which cylinder is doing what at any particular time compared to the cams. You wont get a tru compression test if it isnt warm. If the valves are out or bent they'l sound like a sewing machine, but for my 2c's it should at least fire up. Did you mention theplugs are wet? you probly arent far off.

i second the afm, or the tps... my 2c's